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Thread: Rough turned bowl

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
    Posts
    4,352

    Rough turned bowl

    Continuing my gloat over the flame box elder.. I roughed out a bowl today.. the bowl is 11 x 4.5 inches and has some nice flame running through it. It's just roughed out and soaking in the DNA (hopefully it won't ruin the flame).
    I plan to cut the walls a lot thinner after it dries out from the DNA.

    The wood was so wet it actually slung a line of water across the floor of my shop and once when I reach across the bowl to the lathe switch I thought it was raining in the shop. A couple of times when I touched the bowl with my scraper, I got more water then sawdust. May be a new way to dry wood... put it on the lathe and spin it real fast for a couple of hours??
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fbe 002.JPG   fbe 008.JPG   fbe 012.JPG   fbe 013.JPG   fbe 014.JPG  

    fbe 016.JPG   fbe 011.JPG  
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,017
    Looking good, Chuck. The DNA won't hurt the flame a bit. At least it hasn't for me, and my DNA is as dark as espresso.

    I've read of a guy who does dry his wood by spinning it at high speed. He also saturates the inside with mineral spirits, with the intent to force it into and through the walls of the wood, replacing the water as it goes. I haven't tried it, but he says he has had good results.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    4,834
    Great looking bowl Chuck. I agree with Vaughn. It doesn't hurt the flame a bit and mine like his is dark, dark, dark. Doesn't affect light woods at all.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GTA Ontario Canada
    Posts
    12,258
    Sweeeeet that flame is just fantastic.
    cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    936
    What is needed when turning Really WET wood is:

    1. Full Face Shield
    2. Raincoat
    3. Window Squeege (to clean off the face shield)

    A wet/dry vac should be used instead of your dust collector.

    I dry mine one of two ways. After rough turning:

    1. Place in a brown paper sack filled with wet chips. Open once weekly, mix the chips until both are dry.

    2. for quick drying, use a microwave. Set it on 20% for 2 minutes. When done, touch the piece. If it's hot, let it sit till it's cold (do whatever you want during this time). Put it in and do it again. If not hot, you're done. Let it acclimate to the shop (just let it sit for about a week) then finish turning it. One thing - Do NOT nuke it more than 5 times in a 24 hour period. I have had NO cracks using this method. It's worth a try, anyway.

    Bruce
    Bruce Shiverdecker - Retired Starving Artist ( No longer a Part timer at Woodcraft, Peoria, Il.)

    "The great thing about turning is that all you have to do is remove what's not needed and you have something beautiful. Nature does the hard part!"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Reno, Nv
    Posts
    3,632
    Thats going to be a great piece Chuck. I pulled a silver maple bowl out of some midnight colored DNA and it was still silver.
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears Combat boots

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
    Posts
    4,352
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Shiverdecker View Post
    What is needed when turning Really WET wood is:

    1. Full Face Shield
    2. Raincoat
    3. Window Squeege (to clean off the face shield)

    A wet/dry vac should be used instead of your dust collector.

    I dry mine one of two ways. After rough turning:

    1. Place in a brown paper sack filled with wet chips. Open once weekly, mix the chips until both are dry. Haven't tried this method yet... I usually soak in DNA, then put in a paper bag with dry chips and let it sit for a couple of weeks..

    2. for quick drying, use a microwave. Set it on 20% for 2 minutes. When done, touch the piece. If it's hot, let it sit till it's cold (do whatever you want during this time). Put it in and do it again. If not hot, you're done. Let it acclimate to the shop (just let it sit for about a week) then finish turning it. One thing - Do NOT nuke it more than 5 times in a 24 hour period. I have had NO cracks using this method. It's worth a try, anyway.I do the microwave bit with my pen blanks and smaller bowls... think I'm going to try this with the second half of this log.. it's still on the chuck and haven't worked with it for a couple of days... high speed spinning slung quite a bit of water out.. I had to mop the floor of the shop. I think I may be at the maximum size that will fit in my old "Monkey Wards" microwave.. mine doesn't have percentage settings.. but does have a defrost cycle that seems to work well.

    Bruce
    1.I always turn with a full face shield.. I had to stop a couple of times and run a paper towel over the front of my shield to get the wet sawdust off.. kept getting dark in the shop.
    2.Forgot my rain coat, but the sleeve of my turning smock was soaked.
    3.damp paper towel worked..
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

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