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Thread: Not sure about this peice, Advice?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008

    Not sure about this peice, Advice?

    Well Iíve been going over my project's step by step and I came to a part that Iím just not sure about, hate being new at this . The project calls for some curved caps on the headboard and sides of the crib but I donít have any poplar stock that is 3" x 3" so I figured I could glue 3 1" or even 6 1/2Ē depending on what I have left for this part . The layout of them is in the center of the image. I figure this would also keep from wasting some wood that will be cut off anyway.

    The top two are side views the third a bottom up view showing a long 1/2" deep Mortise and the bottom is showing what will need to be cut out. Iíve read many times that pieces like this are strong at the glue points and that the wood will give before the glue does if properly clamped.

    I'm just wondering what your opinions are on this. Its not a structural point for the piece but a ascetic one. My hope is that with the amount of glue area shown here plus the glued area from the solid piece under it thatís tenoned in will be enough.

    Here are the images

    Cap layout
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    Side assembled
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    Side exploded
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Strength-wise, I don't think there is any problem with your proposed layout for the curve. Tod Evans has done a lot of curved woodworking, so hopefully he'll chime in with any other advice.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    your layout is fine from a structural standpoint, aesthetically the gluelines will be magnified due to bisecting them on a tangent.
    i`d rough out your blank as you`ve shown then apply a shopsawn 1/8" veneer to the top surface.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Thanks the veneer sounds like a good idea. Dad asked me to come up with a second option for us to try so that we can do both and compare before doing the headboard section because it is 58" long with a 4" height top to bottom. The curve is about the same but mirrored. He's been trying to convince me to try and steam bend these pieces so I thought Iíd come up with something along those lines.

    My thought is build a jig like one of the following to distribute even clamping force along the piece. Since If I remember correctly clamping force radiates out in a cone shape that this kind of form would work. I think the second one might work a bit better as the force will be pressing the wood into the bend at the center at a 90 degree angle vs. about 15 from the top one. please correct me if Iím wrong or if it wont matter.

    My second thought was that from my understanding steam bending gives to the possibility of the wood springing back a bit so the form would have to be built to compensate. I think one solution to this for me would be to steam bend 2 1/2" thick pieces then once they set remove them from the clamp, laminate them back together and re-clamp them and allow them to dry. That way the steam bending sets the wood close to the final bend and the lamination will compensate for the spring back.

    My main concern, as I have no experience with steam bending, is if the form is solid on both sides that the setup/dry time will increase. I'm unsure if the process of cooling sets the bend or the drying. If its the drying then I feel I may need to cut slots into the curve on both sides to allow air flow so the it may dry more evenly then just via the open sides.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by Chris Marlor; 05-22-2009 at 05:17 PM.
    Focusing your life on only one path does nothing but close your mind to the infinite possibilities that surround us.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Honolulu, Hawaii

    Not sure about this peice, Advice?

    Chris, Looks like a beautiful project.

    As far as steam bending toe pieces, check out Ed Alexander's thread for his walnut desk. It should be on about page 4 of the thread, or try the link below.

    Aloha, Tony
    Last edited by Tony Baideme; 05-22-2009 at 05:57 PM.
    "You got to learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself". (Author unknown)

    "Time flies like..... an arrow,,,Fruit flies like..... a banana." Groucho Marx

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    Registered voting member

    Fighting for all I am worth, and praying every day.

  6. #6
    IMHO... I see no reason to go to the trouble of laminating the top rail as it is an adornment piece rather than structure. I sleep in a bed well over 200 years old and the top rail (or cap rail) is cut just as you first layed out from solid walnut. Difference being the piece is not laminated but solid one piece. Never failed yet and aftwer 40 years of "fighting" in that bed, onlything failing is the participants.

    However. If you can't cut it from a single piece then face glue two (or more) thinner pieces to put the glue joint along the curve not across. As when you cut through the glue joint at an angle, it will widen the joint and cause it to show.

    One other thing, the side verticles are a bit thin, beef them up a bit.

    Thid crib for a future Indiana State or Purdue grad? You gonna be a Hoosier Daddy? :-)
    Last edited by Bill Simpson; 05-23-2009 at 01:53 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    steam bending is not an exact science, if it`s okay to have a wonkey curve then i`d say go for it.....don`t bother with ventalation just leave the piece in the forms at least 24hrs.
    if you need mirriored pieces or accurate curves then avoid the steam and stick to lamination.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

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