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Thread: Warning – Just had a Catch!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Harvey, Michigan
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    Exclamation Warning – Just had a Catch!

    Was in the process of thinning down the inside top of a hollow form and felt the control arm rotate ever so slightly. BAM! Had a catch but didn’t blow up the form! Managed to push the cutting tip deeper into the form just as I noticed the rotation! Whew!

    Still, it took some doing but managed to smooth out the ripped area inside the form and the thickness went from 1/8” to 1/16”! So, I guess the thinning part worked!

    I have the Monster Articulated Arm Hollowing System and wanted to warn everyone to check the set screws that hold the control arm to the body of the articulated arm. See photo below. Like anything mechanical, things tend to loosen up over time when subjected to vibration. I do not have Lock-Tite on mine at the moment but will apply some later. I have labeled parts so everyone knows what I am talking about – even though some of the terms may be incorrect.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hope this warning comes in time to prevent others from experiencing the same type of catch!
    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Mountain Home, Arkansas
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    11,833
    Lucky, lucky. Now 1/16" thick/thin is pretty impressive.
    Glad for no flying objects.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Catalunya
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    Glad you weren't hurt and the piece didn't break. It looks impressive already on the lathe!
    Best regards,
    Toni

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    I've had similar catches, but so far haven't blown one up. It's a pretty good illustration of what can happen if the tool bit is not horizontal, huh?

    I'd recommend against using Loctite on the set screws. At some point, you may want to use other boring bars (what you've labeled as the Control Arm) and you'll want to be able to loosen the screws up to do it. I've been using an assortment of home made 1/2" boring bars lately, so those two screws on my rig have been getting a lot of work. I tend to swap the bars out a half dozen times or more hollowing a piece.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    618
    Nice save, Steve!

    That looks like a nice HF already. I'd be interested in seeing the finished product.
    Why has common sense
    become so uncommon?

    My Woodwork Site

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
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    687
    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    I'd recommend against using Loctite on the set screws. At some point, you may want to use other boring bars (what you've labeled as the Control Arm) and you'll want to be able to loosen the screws up to do it.
    Vaughn,

    Unless I misunderstood you, the set screws that I have the arrows pointing at only secure a small shaft that the larger hollow end of the 'control' arm attaches to. Putting loc-tite on them shouldn't make any difference as I have never removed that piece of the arm before and can't see why I ever would. The control arm has it's own set screws used to attach it to the small shaft. I remove and replace the control arm all the time - so would never loc-tite those set screws.
    Steve

  7. #7
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    17,475
    glad you didnt get hurt or loose the piece !!! so now here is the real question How thin can you gooo????
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schlumpf View Post
    Vaughn,

    Unless I misunderstood you, the set screws that I have the arrows pointing at only secure a small shaft that the larger hollow end of the 'control' arm attaches to. Putting loc-tite on them shouldn't make any difference as I have never removed that piece of the arm before and can't see why I ever would. The control arm has it's own set screws used to attach it to the small shaft. I remove and replace the control arm all the time - so would never loc-tite those set screws.
    Steve, if you remove that small shaft, you're left with a 1/2" hole...perfect for inserting a 1/2" diameter boring bar into.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
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    Well, Larry, this is where reality kicks in!

    I would love to be able to say that the entire piece is 1/16" but that ain't so. It's 1/16" for the first 2" then ramps up to 1/8" thick. Corner has to be close to 1/4" - as is the base and probably close to 3/16" on the side walls. I'm no Vaughn when it comes to hollow forms but I keep trying!
    Steve

  10. #10
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    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schlumpf View Post
    ... I'm no Vaughn when it comes to hollow forms but I keep trying!
    I appreciate the compliment, but I'm pretty sure mine aren't any thinner than yours. I'm less adventurous than a lot of guys when it comes to pushing the wall thickness. I'd much rather have a one-piece HF with 1/4" walls than a pile of 1/8" thick curved fragments.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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