Chisel set for BirthDay?

Dan Thibert

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183
Location
Leominster Mass
I ordered this expensive Japanese chisel set months ago and then realized although I would like it I probably could do with a less expensive set so I canceled it.
Months later after I have forgotten it and still do not have a chisel set these arrive and they have charged my credit card.
I ahev two choices now.
1. I can return the chisels and pick up a less expensive set at some point.
2. keep these and my wife says if I do not spend anything from now till my birthday June 12th I may live :eek:

So are these chisels worth the $95 I paid for them?
Can I do better with a different brand?
Would a beginner woodworker like myself need a good set of chisels?

You thoughts woudl be very much appreciated.

Dan
 

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You paid $16.00 each for them. They are probably very good.
Compare with turning tools that often are in the $30.00 to $100.00 each range.
You might be able to get a good chisle set for less but you have these and unless $95.00 is life changing, I say keep 'em.
 
$95 for six chisels is not expensive (I know, it it all relative). Did you get them from The Japan Woodworker? If not where? Like everything, not all Japanese tools are the same grade. So it all depends on which set you bought as to what quality you have.
 
This will sound a bit strange, but $95 for a set of Japanese chisels is not expensive - there are a lot of Japanese chisels that sell for $95 each.

Japanese chisels are different from western chisels and you need to be aware of the differences when you sharpen and use the chisels. Some people love Japanese chisels, while others prefer western.

I would not recommend Japanese chisels for a beginning woodworker, unless for some reason you're really into the Japanese style of woodworking.

Mike
 
Stupid question #1 for today :rofl:

What is the difference between a Japanese chisel and a western chisel:dunno:

Do you have to hold them with chop sticks:rofl:

I am not sure if I should return these and get a different set? If I should any recommendations on chisel sets out there?

Thanks
Dan
 
Dan, I wondered the same thing as well.
I know I'll get skewered for this but....and edge is an edge, is an edge....:eek:

Frank I would tend to agree. An edge is an edge. But the all important issue is how long will the edge keep. There are many good chisels on the market both Jpn and western. I go for Jpn because of my location and I happen to like them They do hold an edge exceptionally well so that is all the more reason to like them more. Just this week I bought a set of 4 fishtail chisels. Right outta the box they are scary sharp.

Dan 95.00 is not a lot of money for any set of 6 chisels. And at that price I would even say they are a good starter set. I would keep them and learn to sharpen them by hand with a waterstone. they will serve you well for a long time.
 
Frank I feel so much better knowing that I am not the only one without this particular knowledge :huh:

They look like my cheep $2 chisels except a hell of allot nicer. I am sure the edge will hold much better! I have a Japanese water stone to sharpen them so they should play well together :rofl:

I am leaning towards keeping them, but I have never had a good chisel set so these may not be "expensive" but they are to me. We do not have a lot of money but I like good tools. If there is a better choice I have no problems with returning these.

If these look like a good set and will last me for years to come then I will keep them and bow to them before I start using them:bow:

Still need help deciding
Dan
 
No problem Dan. I can't really comment on western chisels but I can give a little info on the Jpn ones. Generally they are made with blue or white steel. The color refers to the packing paper they are wrapped in. The white steel chisels are a little harder than the blue steel ones. I think Jpn chisels are hardened to about 65 Rockwell. Western ones I understand are around 60-62. Factor of hardness will always be compromised with brittleness. The harder you go the more brittle the material becomes. Jpn chisels makers add support to the hard brittle layer with a softer layer folded over top of the hard layer. You can probably see a dark grey layer on the bottom of the blade and a sliver grey layer on the top. I am no technician so I can't go into details but if you do a search on Jpn chisels you will get some good info.
 
Dan,
Besides the difference in the steel, the major consideration in sharpening a Japanese chisel will be that the back of the chisel is hollow ground, unlike the flat back of a Western chisel profile. Here are some instructions for caring for a Japanese chisel as stated on the japanwoodworker.com website.




Care and Sharpening of Japanese Woodworking Chisels
When a new chisel with a hooped handle is received, quite often the hoop is loose. This is common to all Japanese chisels. The function of the hoop is solely to keep the handle from splitting. Therefore, the hoop should be properly seated prior to use. To do this, first remove the hoop from the handle and place the top portion of the handle on an anvil. With a metal hammer firmly tap all around the top 5/8" of the handle. The idea is to compress the wood so that the hoop can be driven approximately 1/32" to 1/16" below the top of the handle. After several days, the wood will swell and bind the hoop firmly to the handle. I like to speed this up by soaking the handle over-night in a light bodied tung oil based finish such as Sealacell.

Many woodworkers are initially concerned that the flat area directly behind the cutting edge will be eliminated with repeated sharpening thus rendering the chisel useless. However, this will not occur if the following simple sharpening steps are taken.

A new chisel should always be honed prior to use. First, the back of the chisel must be honed on a flat coarse stone (#1200 or #2000 grit stone preferred) until the area directly behind the cutting edge is completely flat across the width of the chisel. To do this, rub the back of the chisel side ways along the length of the stone. The proper technique is to keep the chisel flat on the stone with finger pressure applied directly on the bevel. Keep rubbing until the area directly behind the cutting edge is flat. This will be obvious by inspection. Second, transfer the chisel to a flat #6000 Finishing stone or #8000 Polishing stone and hone as above until a mirror surface is obtained.

Future sharpening will require that the chisel back be honed only on the Finish or Polish stone unless after repeated sharpening the cutting edge reaches the hollow grind. If this happens, it is easily corrected by following the above procedure until about 1/32" of flat area is re-established.

After the back has been honed and polished, the bevel of the chisel is sharpened. This is done by rubbing the bevel on a flat coarse stone until the "burr" is turned up. At this point, transfer the chisel to the finish stone and alternately hone the bevel and back of the chisel until a razor edge is obtained.
 
Thanks Conrad,
I had to look up to find out what a hoop was :dunno: now I know:thumb:

Sounds like sharpening is similar to what I have done with my cheap chisels and plane irons.

I look forward to honing them and using them.

Dan
 
Dan,

Just thought I'd chime in on a topic that your earlier post referenced. Waterstones. When I bought my first waterstone, I started sharpening all of my chisels. No one that I knew was using the Japanese waterstones and thusly no one told me how quickly they will dish out. Being unaware of the dishing, I was still a sharpening fool and caused most of my chisels to have some curvature to their backs rather than the flat back that you want. Took such a long time to get them flat again. I'm just bringing this up in the hopes it helps prevent you from the same issues.

Enjoy your birthday present.

Regards,
 
Dan,

Just thought I'd chime in on a topic that your earlier post referenced. Waterstones. When I bought my first waterstone, I started sharpening all of my chisels. No one that I knew was using the Japanese waterstones and thusly no one told me how quickly they will dish out. Being unaware of the dishing, I was still a sharpening fool and caused most of my chisels to have some curvature to their backs rather than the flat back that you want. Took such a long time to get them flat again. I'm just bringing this up in the hopes it helps prevent you from the same issues.

Enjoy your birthday present.

Regards,

And I'll just chime in on this note. The best (and cheapest way) to keep your waterstones flat is to rub them together with water after each use until flat. Flattening your stones after each use is much like honing your chisels after use - it doesn't take much effort.
 
Alex,

Great followup. I unintentionally left him hanging. Thanks for having my back!

Dan,

I also flatten my waterstones when finished, and during the sharpening process depending on how much time I'm spending on the stones. I'll sometimes use my diamond plate as a reference to flatten my stones. Just remember that all plates are not equally flat.

Good luck,
 
Alex,

Great followup. I unintentionally left him hanging. Thanks for having my back!

Dan,

I also flatten my waterstones when finished, and during the sharpening process depending on how much time I'm spending on the stones. I'll sometimes use my diamond plate as a reference to flatten my stones. Just remember that all plates are not equally flat.

Good luck,

Lee, no probs. I also use my diamond plate, which is why I put in parentheses above 'and cheapest way'. Diamond plates are great for removing metal quickly and for being dead flat. They are a bit pricey though.
 
ok here is my ignorant question fer today.. one of you fellas mentioned just rubin the water stones together to flatten,, wouldnt that just mafe them fit each other and not neccesarily flat? if one had a vlley in it the other would just comform to it???
 
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