Couple of Dovetailed boxes - Input please

[Lee Laird]

I just made a couple of dovetailed boxes and these are the first ones where I've incorporated a sliding top. At first glance it looks like I just decided to make two with different designed tops, but in reality I made the first one just a bit too small to hold the intended contents. It was commissioned to hold an urn, and dang if I didn't miss on the dimensions. The dimensions were such that if the contents could have been rotated 90 degrees then it would have worked just fine. Unfortunately, the urn wasn't setup to lay on it's side, so ... After realizing it was not going to work, I decided to use it as a mock-up for the new top that I intended to use on the real deal. Something about the top on the first one begged me to chamfer the edges. I kinda liked the look and thought I'd use the same on the second one. After I put the second box together and fit the top, the proportions didn't seem to warrant the chamfer. It actually looked better, to me at least, with the crisp 90 degree corners.

Now I'd like to ask everyone to let me know their thoughts on the boxes/tops. I'm interested to see if my design eye is in sync with the masses or if I'm just out there.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I don't know if my design eye is in any better sync than yours, but I think I prefer the chamfered lid. It adds a nice little touch of interest for me.

[Stuart Ablett]

I don't know if my design eye is in any better sync than yours, but I think I prefer the chamfered lid. It adds a nice little touch of interest for me.

Ditto!

Nice work Lee!

[tod evans]

lee,
try doing the chamfer with a plane, scribe the edges and pull it back an inch and a half or so on the top......maybe a 2º-3º bevel.
just a thought...

[John Bartley]

.,.,.,

[larry merlau]

well i like the chamfered style as wel and i would incorporate a narrow piece of the brown wood to hid the lid somewhat make it look like the top just is built in.

[ken werner]

Lee, first off, very nice work.
Here's my very fussy opinions -
I like both chamfered and square treatments, both are good and should be used, but the lids look too thick to my eye, especially the chamfered lid. I think Tod's suggestion of handplaning a more gentle angle is great.

I think also that the sides are too thick for a box that size. To my eye anyway, a small piece needs to have proportions that all fit well, small box, thin wood.

Last, I think the top DT on the right side of the first box should be higher up, even if this causes assymetry.

You asked for opinions. I'm giving them honestly and with good intentions. I think you've done a really nice job of the boxes. Like they say in 4H - "to make the best better"

Ken

[Lee Laird]

First off let me thank all of you who have given input. I'll certainly try out the ideas. It's great to have such a diverse family to draw from.

Vaughn and Stu- Thanks. I tend to like that look better, too.

Todd - Yeah, I see what you mean. I was stuck in the 45 degree mode, didn't really think about using a different angle.

John - I understand your point. I made the decision to have the top above the edges so it would be easier to open. I thought about using an overhang or something to assist, but when I put a piece of plywood into the opening before making the top I wasn't sure how it would work if not proud of the sides.

Larry - I saw a box recently where they did just that. I might have to play with that sometime to see how it works.

Ken - I understand the thickness issue. It was somewhat intentional, but your point is well taken. With the box(es) designated to hold an urn and ashes I wasn't sure how heavy the combo would be so was trying to make certain of no failure. I guess I should have listed the size of the box, about 10" x 10" x 8", although I guess it doesn't really matter if the proportions are off they're off. The DT you spoke of was a design element which is better seen in the other box. On the side where the top can slide in, I decided to forgo the last pin at the top, as I was (and did) cut the end piece short enough for the top to slide in. I couldn't think of a better way of handling this, for this type purpose. So the one you see in the first box, is the same on the oposite side of the box, just looks a little different when seen from the side, since you can't readily see the purpose.

Bill - I actually cut the grooves on a router table. It was a 1/4" straight bit set to about 3/16" depth on the larger box and about 1/8" on the smaller.

Toni - I'd thought of something similar when I was chamfering the first top but implementation was getting the best of me. <grin>

Thanks for the great constructive critisism.

[Mike Henderson]

I don't have a picture of a box I made so let me try to describe it with words.

I wanted a sliding top, but I didn't want it to show. So on the "open" side, I took a piece of the same wood as the side of the box, and glued it to the sliding top. That piece of wood was cut with a miter on the ends to match to the box.

So when you looked at it from the top, it looked like the sides of the box came all the way up on all four sides. It was only when you looked closely on the side that you saw the line between the side and the piece of wood glued to the top.

I handed the box to a friend and asked him to open it. It took him a while to figure out how the box worked.

That piece of wood worked well as a "handle" to grab hold of to open the box. And I chamfered the top.

Should have taken a picture of that box (I actually made two).

Mike

[Lee Laird]

Mike,

Sounds similar to one I saw Roy Underhill make on a recent episode. The one he made wasn't quite to my liking on the design aspect, but I would like to see a pic of yours if you can get one. When you said you chamfered the top, did that chamfer go all the way to the edge of the box, or just the sliding portion? Just trying to get a picture in my head.

I'm always glad ot get input from which to learn. Could definitely be something to add to my repitoire.

Thanks again,