Couple of Dovetailed boxes - Input please

Mark,

Thanks for the kind words. The recipients are some of our best friends, and I know they are just thrilled for me to hand-make them a box for their companion. They don't have any specific design criterion, but some of the great input can be used for future commissions/projects.

Regards,
 
Stu -

Good looking box. I'd thought about something similar to your carved finger grip, but wasn't sure how the recipient would feel about it. I certainly like you design.

Mind telling what types of wood you used? I like the contrast.

Thanks

Lee

Hi Lee,

I'm a big fan of Australian timbers. The front and back are Australian Rosewood with a Huon Pine band. The sides and top are Australian Red Cedar.

I made the box in a weekend to practice some hand tool techniques. The box was made using stopped grooves and rebates, dovetails and was untouched by sandpaper. The timber was resawed with handsaws, resized and finished with hand planes. The finger grip in the top was carved with a gouge.The finish is traditional shellac polish and buffed wax.
No electrons were sacrificed in it's making (apart from the lightbulb and radio :thumb: )

My pins are bigger in my dovetails, but that is the look I wanted. The box is a bit extreme for a tool box knocking around the shed, but I felt I needed the practice on all the above techniques.

Couple more pics below...

Cheers,
Stu
 

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Hey Stu,

I've always been drawn to the use of handtools. I can't say I've completely left out the power tools or sandpaper on my boxes, but I like the concept of being able to do all without power.

I like the native woods, too. They look good together. It's funny how the picture of the box, end on, gave the illusion the top had a raised panel due to the cutout for the finger hold.

Sorry for the delay on response, but my daughter graduated from High School on Friday and we were working on last minute details.

Thanks,
 
Hi Lee

Very excellent work.

You can chamfer the edges to give a raised panel look, or you can leave them straight. I think that they are both nice.

Here is a chamfered look (She-oak sides and Jarrah panel) ..

CompetitionboxWIP.jpg


And here is a straight one (in Tasmanian Blackwood) ..

Chipknivesinbox1.jpg


Chipknivesinbox3.jpg


That was galootaclaus gift for someone a few years back.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Derek,

Appreciate your kind thoughts.

Back at ya on your boxes. I love the woods you used. What are you using for finishes on your boxes?

Regards,
 
Comparing low cost Dovetailing work stations

Derek,

I took a look at your website. You've got some pretty interesting stuff! :thumb:

Funny how you and I seem to think along the same lines. :D Specifically, I read one of the links in your "Shop Made Tools" labeled The $5 Dovetail vise. I like how you made it. My dovetail vise actually cost me a little more than $5, but similar in idea. I didn't have room for a bench, so I decided to modify my SawStop as it was the heaviest piece of equipment that I didn't have to drill any holes. I attached a piece of 8/4 Maple to the end of the saw using the holes made to attach another wing. I bought three Veneer Press Screws from Woodcraft. I took off the end piece that would allow the screw action to press against veneers. I removed material from the back-side of the attached Maple board so the thread inserts for the screw press would fit. I fit all three, one at each end and then one offset from center. I did this so I could use the two end ones for real wide boards and an end one and middle one for two narrower board widths, so there was less flex in the outside board. I made a second Maple board with holes lined up with the first and there was my nice dovetail work place. I still want to build a bench for this work someday, but until that happens, I can still cut the dovetails in boards up to about 20" wide. :D:D

Here's to great dovetail workstations for minimal cost! :thumb:

Regards,
 
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