Menu
What's new

6" pvc or metal duct suppliers

A

Alan Bienlein

Member
Messages
2,045
I'm trying to decide if I should use pvc or metal ductwork for my dust collection system. Any one have any opinions or names of some suppliers I can get either at a reasonable price.
 
There is an amazing amount of discussion, opinion and even rants on this around here. I went ASTM-2729 for pipe and PVC for fixtures. Very inexpensive BUT, I found price variances like $28 or $13 for the exact same piece of pipe. I believe it was someone on here that steered me onto Horizon. 10 minutes from my work and by far the best price in my area. I'm running a 2HP cyclone and am completely satisfied. It's real easy to modify if things change as they did for me shortly after completion ;-)
 
Last edited:
for metal look up marty"s shop thread he got a deal on some from a place that he was very satisfied with. i ran pvc in the floor and above to the machines.. if yu were closer you could have a mixed batch i have behind the shop.. metal anything from 8" to 3"... you will get alot of opinions on which is better and bill pentz doent like pvc if i recall correctly:)
 
if you go metal (i did and swear by it) don`t use hvac stuff you`ll suck it flat.
find a spiral pipe manufacturer locally as marty did or do like i did and salvage 1/8" wall pipe from a defunked feed mill.
pvc will work but there`s nothing you can do about the static.
 
tod evans said:
if you go metal (i did and swear by it) don`t use hvac stuff you`ll suck it flat.
find a spiral pipe manufacturer locally as marty did or do like i did and salvage 1/8" wall pipe from a defunked feed mill.
pvc will work but there`s nothing you can do about the static.
Click to expand...
Tod I've found that after being used for awhile my PVC duct didn't have a static problem. Also it helps if the PVC isn't installed where its easily bumped into.
 
A little bit more help here.I did an advanced search under Marty and came up with nothing:dunno:. Anyone have a last name I could use to help narrow the search.

If I used hvac duct it would have to be a minimum of 26 ga. Every install I read about that used that had no problems. Any thinner and it would suck it flat.

As far as static buildup on the pvc, you can take care of it by running a ground wire with the ductwork. Thats what I did with my old dc and it took care of the problem
 
Alan, try these 2 places for PVC:

http://www.horizononline.com/

http://direct.where2getit.com/cwc/apps/w2gi.php?template=search_new&client=morrison_supply

The second one is where I got my pipe here in Ft. Worth. But they claim they don't have any fittings. (Ask for 6" thin wall non pressure drain pipe...trust me, they don't know what ATSM-2979 is, even though it is stamped on the side of the pipe. I had to show it to the local guys.:wave:)
Horizon reportedly has some fittings as well as the pipe. My next change in duct work will get me to their place to try them out. Jim.
 
Last edited:
Found a local suppliier of spiral metal duct and the price was right. Jim, you were definitely right about morrison not having a clue about their pvc pipe. Their price was going to be about $150 more and the women at Texas Duct understood what I wanted to do and exactly what questions to ask me.
 
Good deal Alan. I understand if you find the right place, spiral is not bad price wise. But like Ed said, the els and wyes can hit your hard. I got my first 2 sticks of pvc for 18.40 each. The next 3 were under 10.00 each...all from Morrison. McMaster-Carr has pretty good prices on the pvc fittings they have, but they have limited items. The main thing is to get a good price and get it going, not the material it's made of. Jim.
 
I knew this was going to be the expensive part, but for $517.60 I'm getting what I need to do wwhat I want to do. I've priced it out at 3 other companys and they all came out about the same. One was for snap lock which I don't want. Morrison was of very little help and the prices, well lets just say they left something to be desired and the third company was about the same but you still had to figure in the shipping. The most important was that loml didn't flinch at the price from Texas Duct.

10' - 8" spiral
60' - 6" spiral
1 - 8" to 6" reducer
5 - 6" 45 degree saddle taps
3 - 90 degree full radius elbows
6 - 45 degree elbows
1 - 4.5" x 9" to 8" round transition

For some that will seem like to much money, but I'll still be less than the cost of the cv1800 max by about $300 when all is said and done.They also have cast aluminum blast gates for about $17. I'm going to give it a try and make my own but its nice to know they stock them.

Feel free to weigh in with your opinions.
 
What I did

Hi Alan,

Sounds like you have a done deal. However, for whoever else reads this:
What I did was to read and read and read. I visited all of the web sites, I purchased books, I went thru Bill Penz web site, etc.

There was so much conflicting information that I finally took one members advice, "I ran 6" everyplace with 4" drops and it works fine." That is what I did. I ran 6in PVC (SandD 35) all over the top and used 4in flex drops.

The SandD 35 was way overkill in my estimation. Something lighter would have worked just as well. Fittings ran from $8.00 to $12.00.

I use only one machine at a time. I am a hobbyist (is that a word?). I have a 2 HP collector. I used two 45 degree els to make each 90 degree turn.

I have had NO static problems.
I used NO solvents...just friction fit the joints. I fit the joints together, I did not pound them to death. This is great because I have changed DC design twice and it is nice to have the joints come apart...with the help of a plastic hammer.

There was an article published on FWW or SMC by a member who had an impressive background. He showed the chemistry, temperature factors, etc. to show that wood dust is not going to ignite or explode from static from PVC.

I use: DeWalt 735 thickness planer, Delta 6 in Jointer, drill press, 14 in bandsaw, have a router table, 10 in table saw, 10 in miter saw, belt/disc sander, high speed grinder and wet grinder, Delta 12 x 36 woodlathe.

I will try to get back into this later with photos of my set-up.

Enjoy

Jim
 
Ed Thomas said:
:huh: Would you happen to have a ducting layout that can be posted? IIRC you wanted the option of running more than 1 machine at a time?
Click to expand...

I understand why your scratching your head Ed. you only se the reducer from 8" to 6" but I'm also doing a saddle tap off of the 8" for a second run of 6" up and over to the other side of the shop. I'll try to do a better version of my rough sketch.

One run will come straight off the 8" and reduce to 6" and have about a 12' run along my west wall. I will have 3 taps off of that that can be connected to my planer, jointer, drillpress or my scms. The other 6" run will 45 off of the 8" witha 6" tap and go up and follow the cieling over to the other side of the shop. That run will have a tap about midway across for the tablesaw. On the east wall from that run I'll split it into 2. One to connect to my bandsaw and the other for the lathe and a floor sweep.

The nice thing about this is that every thing in my shop is mobile so that if I find that the 2 machines I want to run at the same time are on the same run all it takes is a slight rearrangement

Jim nothing is a done deal. It's close but not done so if someone thinks they have a better idea that won't take me to the cleaners I'm all ears!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top