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Thread: 6 foot TV cabinet

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    6 foot TV cabinet

    Wasnt sure if this is worth posting about or not.
    Alot of plywood guts, after clamping the box, and measuring up square, measuring all the sides diagonally, to see if I got square, after putting some slices of maple in a joint or two, just to tweak it ever so slightly, I guess clamping pressure decided the final outcome.
    The diagonal sides top to bottom are off 1/8, so I figure 1/64 here, 1/64 there, nearly impossible for me to see on my tape measure, all adds up if it goes in one way, a reason I dont like to build big cabinets.
    I made a solid wood base, since I dont trust the weight of this unit when filled to depend on the four legs, besides my main concern is sagging in the middle.
    I have to run out and disconnect the base, its all wrong, sorry, will be back later.
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-03-2009 at 10:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Allen, we need pictures, pictures, pictures. Easier to understand.

  3. #3
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    ok, corrected the base, heres the starting pics.

    the side walls on the base are now set 5 inches or so inside, like the front, so when the bottom rails are one inch off the floor, the base inside wont be seen.
    The pictures still have the outside wall of the base on the outside flush, I changed that.
    I used a piece of white oak I was using for testing some finishes, but Ill probably paint it black so it cant be seen when bottom rail has curve in it.
    Not going to get much more done this week, maybe glue up the outside side panels, which was scrapped, but now they are decided on again, so Ill get to work on that and milling up the legs tomorrow.
    The unit gets very hard to move by myself, so Ill try to not attach anything till right near the end.
    I find it easier to build boxes from the inside out, so if I have to tweak any measurements last minute, its easier to do.
    I want the style and look to resemble the coffee table I just finished, walnut with raised panels, but these panels will be white oak.(Larry was right, it was quartersawn. I pulled some of the other boards, the shorter ones I purchased this day, and some have red magic marker on the end grain marked Q, some say WO Q , some dont have any markings, or any flecking. I remember now when I was buying ash he told me he had some white oak if I wanted it, I believe he charged me 3 or 3.50 a board foot, I didnt remember why there were 3.00 bf marked on my original sheet, I had so much wood)

    dan did a sketch up of it, its floating around here somewhere, sorry about the mix up in threads.
    The top two shelves will remain open, a walnut border put on the outsides to cover ply wood edges.
    The bottom will be four shaded glass(tempered for sure) doors framed with white oak. Inset doors.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wood stuff 908 (Medium).jpg   wood stuff 910 (Medium).jpg   wood stuff 911 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-03-2009 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #4
    You are just one workin machine Allen.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Good stuff Allen. You put the rest of us to shame.
    Don Orr

    Woodturners make the World go ROUND

  6. #6
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    My walnut runs around 80 inches by 5 inches wide.
    I originally planned to have all the bottom rails 3 inches wide, the top rails aournd 2 inches wide, and the side rails(including face frames) around 2.5 inches, but 5 inch wide walnut presents me with problems.
    I want to leave a tad on each width so I can edge joint each piece straight, so Im going to have to reduce the side rails to 2.25 inch, and the top rails to 1.75 inch, to have no waste and use what I have.
    If not, Im going to have to use 2 more pieces of walnut,, and Id prefer not to do that since its 8 dollars a bf.
    I dont think it will effect the overall look of the piece.

    If I make the door frames all 1.5 inches width, I can cut 3 strips from each piece of walnut I have, without must waste at all.
    IM not sure what ratio a door frame should be vs. the size of the glass panel, nor do I know if it matters.
    I want the wood frame to be strong enough to support the glass, max of 1/4 inch glass, I might go thinner if the glazier has it.The cheapest guy so far said hed charge me 12 dollars(per panel) for approx 15 inch x 15 inch, (I need a drop smaller, but needed some ballpark figures for glass), of grey tempered glass, but he only had 1/4 inch.

    all new to me, dont know if thats good or bad, but Im trying to keep the overall cost of this unit down, since its already running quite expensive. with the plywood guts and walnut frames.

    The unit is running around 200 for ply, glass and hardware without the cost of the hardwoods.

    btw, the unit will not tip foward, there will be legs running full length of the cabinet, and this will add all the balance support the unit would ever need, since the bulk of the load will fall on the base.I like to build and play with wood, my designs, well, 5th or 6th piece of furniture, I hope Ill get better with experience.
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-04-2009 at 02:23 AM.

  7. #7
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    allen at the rate your going your gonna need a new house to store all your projects!!!!
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
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    made 2 wrong cuts through one maple leg, and spent the last 2 hours trying to make a slice of maple thin enough to fit into the saw kerf space.
    Hard maple does not handplane easily, at least Im struggling with it.
    I think Im going to size it appropiately on the belt sander, so I can sand off just enough.
    I also got the boards to make the side panels with, more quartersawn white oak, and its just wide enough so I dont have to glue up.
    Im going to try to get some of the walnut cut to size today.
    Ill be shutting down for a week, so no more progress will be made after this afternoon.

  9. #9
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    shuttin down fer a week slacker would say yu could down fer a month and stil be wau ahead of most of us in projects completed...
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    This is how the sides would look without raised panels, the walnut rails and stiles, and the maple ply, ofcourse it would be stained a light color.Click image for larger version. 

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    I still have to trim a tiny bit away on the base so it cant be seen from any angle.Click image for larger version. 

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    I measured up short with the walnut, forgot if I need 64 inches, having 3 pieces that added up to 90 inches isnt going to help me much if I want one solid piece, especially since its trim up front.
    Could not get to my jointer to start edge jointing and face jointing another board of walnut, the garage just ran out of space, had to shut it down, didnt have much room to even drag out the router table and round over the edges on the legs.
    I put in a piece of maple, hammered it in, trimmed it down, sanded, to cover up the saw kerf width cuts I made. Its the bottom back of leg, so Im not that concerned.Click image for larger version. 

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    I had bought those router bit holders from Lee Valley. Ofcourse, a hole in a board is fine, but they keep the bits out visible and neat for me.
    (Im up to 20 bits or so)Click image for larger version. 

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