tabletop lathe, and a couple of questions

allen levine

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new york city burbs
I dont know anything about lathes other than they spin and let you make shapes.
thats it.
I have a few questions, hopefully someone will set me straight and I wont have to ask the salesman.
What is indexing?
I understand variable speeds, but is it something that is truly important?
How big a piece will I be able to make,(mainly looking for table legs up to 30 inches), if a lathe says 12x40?(I need to keep it as small as possible, space is valuable, this machine will be put underneath work bench at all times of non use)
The chuck, does it come with a machine, or is this an extra cost?
Do I need more than one chuck?
What kind of chisels would I need to begin, can someone direct me to a place online that I can get a decent set, I dont need a 300 dollar set just right now.


I know there are 100 brands, but Id likely go with a tabletop model well known for quality and manufactuter reliability.
I noticed at the wood show, every booth, and I mean every booth that offered a try or showed a spinner, had a small Jet (white) lathe.
 
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I dont know anything about lathes other than they spin and let you make shapes.
thats it.
I have a few questions, hopefully someone will set me straight and I wont have to ask the salesman.
What is indexing?
I understand variable speeds, but is it something that is truly important?
How big a piece will I be able to make,(mainly looking for table legs up to 30 inches), if a lathe says 12x40?(I need to keep it as small as possible, space is valuable, this machine will be put underneath work bench at all times of non use)
The chuck, does it come with a machine, or is this an extra cost?
Do I need more than one chuck?
What kind of chisels would I need to begin, can someone direct me to a place online that I can get a decent set, I dont need a 300 dollar set just right now.


I know there are 100 brands, but Id likely go with a tabletop model well known for quality and manufactuter reliability.
I noticed at the wood show, every booth, and I mean every booth that offered a try or showed a spinner, had a small Jet (white) lathe.

That's a lot of questions.
A 12x40 is a full sized lathe. A mini would be more like a 10x14 and would be much smaller and more portable. The Jet is very popular but there are others.
Chucks do not come with new lathes but other things do such as a drive spur and live center.
Yes, the ability to change speeds is important. Starting a rough piece may need slow speeds and already rounded pieces turn better at higher speeds. Sanding is usually done at slow speeds. You do not need a fancy EVS system. A Reeves drive or just a hand changing belt system works fine.
As for tools, I don't believe a beginner needs the whole shebang of tools. You can start with a few basics and build on those. I started with an set of El Cheapos and still use a couple. Quite a few came from garage sales and I have actually purchased a couple of the high priced variety. Even eBay could be a source. The guys here would probably sell you their extras at good prices.
 
What is indexing?

It's a way of accurately and repeatedly rotating the workpiece a specific number of degrees. For example, if I wanted to drill eight evenly spaced holes around the rim of a bowl, the holes would all need to be 45º of rotation from each other. I'd use the indexing feature turn the piece exactly 45º at a time. It's used when the lathe is turned off.

I understand variable speeds, but is it something that is truly important?

Yes, it's important to be able to change speeds. Some lathes have electronic variable speed (EVS), some have a "Reeves drive" (which is a mechanical way of adjusting the speed while the lathe is running), and others have multi-step pulleys and you move the belt from one pulley to the next to change speeds. For your purposes, the stepped pulleys would work fine, although the luxury of EVS is very nice. (In most cases, I'd recommend against a Reeves drive. They work, but can become problematic.)

How big a piece will I be able to make,(mainly looking for table legs up to 30 inches), if a lathe says 12x40?

A 12 x 40 lathe could theoretically make a piece 12" in diameter x 40" long. In real life, it'd probably be more like 11 1/2" x 38" or so.

The chuck, does it come with a machine, or is this an extra cost?

The chuck is an extra cost accessory. For turning spindle projects like table legs, a chuck can be handy but it's not required by any means. In most cases, your new lathe will come with the spur and drive centers (the pointy bits that hold a spindle to the lathe). For bowls and other vessels, and chuck is still not required, but it sure makes the turning process easier for most folks.

Do I need more than one chuck?

Nope. Chucks have jaws to hold the wood, and these jaws come in different sizes and shapes, and a lot of folks have more than one set of jaws for their chuck. A person can undo 8 screws or so and change to a different set of jaws if necessary. Multiple chucks are only necessary if you don't like to change the jaws.

What kind of chisels would I need to begin, can someone direct me to a lace online that I can get a decent set, I dont need a 300 dollar set just right now.

In about 95% of the cases I've seen, a new turner won't use all the chisels in a set. I've also seen that using cheaper tools can be cause for frustration to a new turner. (It happened to me.) That said, I'd still suggest buying the $40 set of HSS (high speed steel) turning tools from Harbor Freight, with the intention of spending $100 to $200 more (not immediately, though) on a select assortment of better-quality tools. You can get quite a few miles out of the $40 HF set, especially if you have a good sharpening jig (like the Wolverine jig, which costs 3+ times as much as the chisel set).

There was a reason why you saw a lot of Jet mini lathes at the show...they are the standard by which all others are judged. ;)
 
Allen!!!! you go there and i will take yu off my will!!! i have warned yu that the spinny thing is bad news.... you will never be the same again..if you submit to there presure tactics...you have got to continue the legacy of keeping the flat world alive...:):D

but for the record yu got some real good info from the blond haired guy just now:) he seems to know how use one of those things purty well allen,, we all have seen his great work!
 
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Harbor Freight has a decent set of HSS turning tools (HSS is HSS) but as i remember they do not have a bowl gouge in their sets. If your just going to turn spindle legs and such this set is a good one (I own one of them). Since that time i have made my own handles for them.
I agree with Vaughn - I do not use all the tools in the set - im sure ive tried them but over time i have favored certain tools.
When you want to start on bowls i would suggest you buy a good quality gouge - You will get alot of recommendations on here for them - Check Thompson on here and Check Monster Tools (I own them to and they are very good quality).
I would suggest However as Vaughn Mentioned - Have a good way to sharpen your tools and you wont go wrong - I use the Wolvrine Jig myself and find it easy and quick to use. I have since reshaped the HF set i bought to suit my own needs - with this jig you can do it fairly easy.
Opinion - Jet makes a very good lathe
Chucks - I am happy with my SuperNova-2 but i would suggest you get a good one....Oneway - VicMarc - SuperNova are a few.

Hope some of this helps you
 
Don't worry about Larry! WE know where he lives and the VORTEX is strong. The Army of Assimilation will protect you from the non-believer!

As has been suggested, the Jet mini lathe is a good one and comes in variable speed. Woodcraft, I believe, still has the Rikon 70-100 on sale, for under $300.00. This is also a Very good lathe, kept even after the purchase of a full sized lathe. It is 11-1/2" Dia X 15-1/2" length, add an extention and you have 35-1/2". Long enough for table legs.

The leg set, if you don't mount the lathe to a bench, is, I believe the most versitle out there. Height is VERY important, if you want to be able to turn more than about 20 minutes at a time. If you have to bend over, your lower back will cry OUCH!!!! If to high, you will get a lot more catches and your arms will scream at you! The correct height is - the height of your elbow from the floor + 1/2 to 1". This is measured to the tip of the Drive Center.

Hope this helps,

Bruce
 
YOu guys have answered my questions.
Bruce is scaring me a bit.Its not like building 250 lb cabinets is easy on my back, but its clear to me now, especially after that warning, something I never thought about, I will need to make sure if not my table height, I have a stand, even if I had to store it away.(I wonder if there are full blown cases of Myasthenia Gravis who actually turn wood, Im hoping I never have to find out personally, I dont want to ever give this hobby up)
I will visit the harbor freight store this coming monday, I really want that truck bed extender, and a few other little sale items they have.
Since Im machine challenged, I feel sticking with a branded quality name is whats best for me, even if it costs me a few extra dollars.
And service is always easier, and I know the tool guy near me carries Jet, and powermatic.
 
don't worry larry, if allen succumbs to the dark side, i'll help ya uphold the honor of the flat world! :rofl::rofl:

Careful there, Burro-Boy. You could be next.
whistling.gif
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I dont know anything about lathes other than they spin and let you make shapes.
thats it.
I have a few questions, hopefully someone will set me straight and I wont have to ask the salesman.
What is indexing?
I understand variable speeds, but is it something that is truly important?
How big a piece will I be able to make,(mainly looking for table legs up to 30 inches), if a lathe says 12x40?(I need to keep it as small as possible, space is valuable, this machine will be put underneath work bench at all times of non use)
The chuck, does it come with a machine, or is this an extra cost?
Do I need more than one chuck?
What kind of chisels would I need to begin, can someone direct me to a place online that I can get a decent set, I dont need a 300 dollar set just right now.


I know there are 100 brands, but Id likely go with a tabletop model well known for quality and manufactuter reliability.
I noticed at the wood show, every booth, and I mean every booth that offered a try or showed a spinner, had a small Jet (white) lathe.

Allen,
Welcome to the spinning club... you're almost hooked and as soon as we all get the hook properly set, you'll be hooked for life...:rofl

Vaughn has already answered your questions with great answers... only thing I would add.. more than one chuck is not a necessity, but a nice luxury... I have 3 myself.. all inexpensive PSI chucks.. the first is the little 3" cmg3 or something.... the other two are Barracuda II's.. I'm sure there are better chucks if the budget will allow. If you can swing it, strongly recommend a good chuck with a single key to tighten.. mine all use the tommy bars and being only two handed, it does get to be a chore sometimes to mount a larger piece. :D

On tools, I have a couple from HF and they will work fine, but most of my tools came in a set that came with my first lathe and my son's Jet 1014... both sets appear to be the same tools. And I have several pieces that are now rusty and have never been used.... You can again look to PSI's low end (Benjamin's best) tools and pick and choose what you want... they're acceptable tools to learn with and you don't loose a lot of money if you screw up the sharpening, etc... You will want better tools later. So do I when and if the budget ever allows here too.
If you buy the tools unhandled, you can save a few $$, not a big amount as the steel is the important part of the tool... but you could make your handles to suite your own comfort.

I use pretty much only about 7 tools regularly... 1" and 1/2" Skew, 1/2" round nose scraper, spindle gouge (not sure of width, it's pretty narrow), parting tool, a 3/4" roughing gouge and a 3/8" bowl gouge. I have a few other specialty tools I use on occasion, but not with any regularity. As you learn and develop your own style, you tools may vary and I'm sure Vaughn and the other turners here can verify...

storing a lathe under a work bench when not in use will be a chore.. even the little Jet 1014 that I have weighs close to about 80 lbs and I find it a bugger to pick up and handle very regularly... mine is permanently mounted on a free standing stand with a box of rocks on the base, so all total it is closer to 200 lbs.... my Jet 14-42 is on cast iron legs and weight closer to 400 lbs. Advantage I have, my shop is dedicated to turning, so the lathes are pretty prominent in the shop.

I don't have an indexing wheel, but as soon as I can, definitely want to get one...
 
Allen, I will add my 5 cents. Follow what Vaughn said. I have experience (neagitively) the cheap side of the lathe world.

I wish i had found the forum before i had bought my lathe.

I have Reeves drive......not good does not go slow enough and you always end up with manually winding it back to slow speed if you left it fast when you last switched off and want to start off slow again. Go Variable speed.

Tools, I 100% agree with Vaughn but I think the set of tools at PSI called Benjamine or something like that is not a bad set for 80 odd bucks. But here is what you find out the hard way. They dont hold an edge for long. Just like chisels you get what you pay for or make your own.

Indexing, one aspect i want to try is a fluted spindle for a cabinet i have the desire to make with fluted collums. My lathe has a threaded through hole on the spindle but I cannot get the reverse threaded bolt to be able to set up an indexing disc so today I would have bought a lathe with indexing ability or some easy way to fit a indexing disc.

Boy Vaughn thanks for the confirmation of the experience I wish i had met you online long ago.

By the way Allen, plan on having an area for the lathe. Once you get to experience the merits of turning then you want it handy for a quickie project. :)

Then there are finer things that have not been mentioned which i find frustrating about my junk. Quality of tool rest, the quality of the tool centers, quality of grind on the bed and how the tool rests adjust.

For what its worth, so far you have bought really good machines Allen, they are an investment in more ways than one. I would do the same with the lathe if I were you and could afford it. I dont mean another Yella, but there are good lathes out there with decent characteristics that would give you a head start.

Best of luck and dont worry Larry will still be your friend.:D

If I were buying again, I would be looking to spend just under a $1000 dollars on my next lathe. The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long ater the cheap price.:wave:
 
don't worry larry, if allen succumbs to the dark side, i'll help ya uphold the honor of the flat world! :rofl::rofl:

Yeah, I'll help too! Round stuff is highly over-rated! :D

Yeah, I do have a lathe - it's that white thing taking up space, and collecting dust, in the far dark corner of the shop. It's not totally useless, though. I hang my shop aprons from the tailstock. :p
 
Allen I agree with what the others have said. I have a Rikon and Jet 1220. The Rikon you have to change belts to change speed. The Jet 1220 has a VS and you can change belts (3 ranges) to go from slow (270 rpm) to very high (4200 rpm). I leave mine in mid-range and don't change it much. That said I find that I migrate to the Jet with VS rather than the Rikon. So the Rikon is setup pretty much for bottle stoppers, mini birdhouse ornaments and pens.

Now I tried what you are talking about storing the lathe under the bench. I had put in on the bench top. With both the Rikon and Jet with bed extension so I could do pieces over 20" it got real old, pretty fast trying to take that thing up and down. You are talking probably around 150 lbs. After about twice with the wife's help lifting these thing I built stands for them.

Hope it works out. Have fun.
 
Allen,
Welcome to the spinning club... you're almost hooked and as soon as we all get the hook properly set, you'll be hooked for life...:rofl

Vaughn has already answered your questions with great answers... only thing I would add.. more than one chuck is not a necessity, but a nice luxury... I have 3 myself.. all inexpensive PSI chucks.. the first is the little 3" cmg3 or something.... the other two are Barracuda II's.. I'm sure there are better chucks if the budget will allow. If you can swing it, strongly recommend a good chuck with a single key to tighten.. mine all use the tommy bars and being only two handed, it does get to be a chore sometimes to mount a larger piece. :D

On tools, I have a couple from HF and they will work fine, but most of my tools came in a set that came with my first lathe and my son's Jet 1014... both sets appear to be the same tools. And I have several pieces that are now rusty and have never been used.... You can again look to PSI's low end (Benjamin's best) tools and pick and choose what you want... they're acceptable tools to learn with and you don't loose a lot of money if you screw up the sharpening, etc... You will want better tools later. So do I when and if the budget ever allows here too.
If you buy the tools unhandled, you can save a few $$, not a big amount as the steel is the important part of the tool... but you could make your handles to suite your own comfort.

I use pretty much only about 7 tools regularly... 1" and 1/2" Skew, 1/2" round nose scraper, spindle gouge (not sure of width, it's pretty narrow), parting tool, a 3/4" roughing gouge and a 3/8" bowl gouge. I have a few other specialty tools I use on occasion, but not with any regularity. As you learn and develop your own style, you tools may vary and I'm sure Vaughn and the other turners here can verify...

storing a lathe under a work bench when not in use will be a chore.. even the little Jet 1014 that I have weighs close to about 80 lbs and I find it a bugger to pick up and handle very regularly... mine is permanently mounted on a free standing stand with a box of rocks on the base, so all total it is closer to 200 lbs.... my Jet 14-42 is on cast iron legs and weight closer to 400 lbs. Advantage I have, my shop is dedicated to turning, so the lathes are pretty prominent in the shop.

I don't have an indexing wheel, but as soon as I can, definitely want to get one...

Im very pressed for space, work space.
If I leave all the machines in a dedicated place, I dont have room for work tables, or wood piles.
I currently lift my planer up and down from bottom of table, and thats around 90 or so lbs. (Not this morning, Im getting ready to leave, but I wanted to smooth out a cutting board, so I had to wake up my son to lift it for me today, bothered me I had to wake it, didnt bother me I gave my lovely neighbor a nice wakeup call under his window)
Im looking into a lift table, something I can slide the tabletop machines onto and crank them up to work table height. Might the only way I can go.
 
For most tools, that lifting business can get old. And, I do mean old for both man and machine. My planer is one of those that a lot of guys call 'lunchbox'. I can lift it but don't and won't. I'm sure, one of these days I would bend over to pick it up and I would get stuck in the bend position, followed by days of pain and medication. The only stationary tool I still keep on a shelf and lift to use is my mini-shaper. It weighs about 40 pounds.
 
I watched an "expert" turn a beer-tap handle on an eHow video series today.

I just don't understand how someone with his talent and knowhow totally blows off caution and spins wood with large chips flying without any eye protection.
 
many moons ago (back when jet lathes were blue), i started out on a 1014, and after a while moved up to a 1236. both are good lathes. if/when i build a third bench, you can be certain the 1236 will be on it.:thumb:
 
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