Yates-American G-89 whirling to life...with chutzpah to spare...

Alan DuBoff

Former Member (by the member's request)
Messages
711
As many others, I had wanted an older table saw, 'ya know...one with chutzpah, and I think this rates pretty good on the chutzpah scale. :thumb:

I've been using a Ridgid 3612 contractors saw for the past year+, and I'll have to say it's been very good to me. I was able to accomplish quite a bit with it, and it helped me get my feet wet into woodworking once again, after a long haitus with it some years ago.

The 3612 was a 1 1/2 HP saw, and the G-89 is a 5 HP 3 Phase machine.

The 3612 was a 10" blade, the G-89 will take an 18" blade, but the manufacture only reccomended using a 16" blade on it. I have a couple 16" blades, and some 14" 24T rip blades which I'll use for ripping.

It was quite a bit of work to get 3 phase working in my garage, which I have a rotary phase converter for, as well as get the machine together and whirling, and I mean the 16" blade really throws some wind around. This saw takes a minute and a half to stop spinning down after the power is shut off. It is a real quality machine in all counts, and will serve me for many years to come. I can't imagine replacing this machine, unless I was to find a slider of similar quality.

I haven't worked out the splitter/riving-knife, and still need to get a functional guard working. I may replace the fence also, haven't decided yet.

(linky pic)

 
Stu,

I don't know yet. The fence that is on it is very heavy, as was the original guard. Lee Styron is working with me to create the splitter/knife and guard. It will attach to the stock post and crossmember.

I was thinking of mounting a beismeyer or similar (maybe a accufence or Xacto, General, HTC, Incra, etc...), as they seem easier to adjust...in fact, I was looking at my Ridgid fence thinking it would make a decent fence for the G-89...:rolleyes:

Right now the stock fence is good on the right side, if I move it to the left side of the blade it's out quite a bit, so the front rail might not be dialed in properly for both sides. :dunno:

I have the table dialed into the miter slots, and the fence dialed in on the right side of the blade. Problem is that it's right tilt, so I could need to use the fence on the left side of the blade to rip bevels. I haven't done too much of that though, I mostly rip at 90 degrees.

This has so much power, it is amazing in comparison...The 3612 is a very capable saw though, I was very happy with it. This saw takes me into a complete different class of machine though.
 
Ed,

Those 16" blades are so massive in comparison to a 10" blade, the difference is astounding.

I put my contractor saw on craigslist and already have a buyer.

Jeff, this project has taken a while, as it required getting the garage wired properly for 240v, as well as the rotary phase converter. Roger Van Maren had helped me with the wiring on the starter/switch. When I get the new guard for it, with splitter/knife, it will pretty much be complete, although it's gonna be my only table saw after tonight.

I'm on the fence about another fence...:rofl: will use it with the stock fence and see how it goes. Rips like a hot knife through butter.
 
nice saw alan! but even nicer is 3-phase:cool: your shop will never be the same now that you have the ability to power "big" stuff...congratulations on both! tod
 
Alan how about some more pics ?? The top & blade look great but more interesting pics are to be had I'm sure.
There's a bunch of pics floating around...

There's some pics on my owwm.com page.

There's also a couple different pages on my own website:

http://www.softorchestra.com/woodworking/tools/yates-american/

http://www.softorchestra.com/woodworking/tools/ya-g89/

Tod, having 3 phase opens up a giant door to machines, at less cost in most cases as they can't be used by most home shops due to converters and/or having 3 phase in a commercial environment.

Don, Ollies are nice, I'm sure when the time is right you'll get it and use it. I was trying to get an Ollie 88D not long ago, what a beast. It had a sliding table, dual arbor, what a machine...was trying to trade 250 bf. of hard maple to a school for it, but the woodshop teacher decided to go with another offer. Ollies are nice, one of the saws I cut my teeth on as a kid. This G-89 is not disappointing in any way.
 
Nice going Alan,
Welcome to the 3ph club. You'll never go back to a belt drive again after the DD.
I am partial to the Oliver's myself. But thats what I own.
Dom when you get it you will love it
Reg
 
Reg,

All depends on the machine being used, sometimes belts aren't a bad thing...take a drill press for instance...:rolleyes:

In general I agree, I can't think of a good reason I'd want to use a belt driven table saw over a direct drive.

Ollies are darn good machines, built a little light, but not bad machines...:rofl:

Having 3 phase is the door to real machines at reasonable prices...it's quite amazing at the machines we can own in our own homes these days...who woulda thought...

I thought I was gonna get an Ollie 88D, was trying to trade 250 bf of hard maple I bought for $.50/bf, what a deal that would have been...unfortunately it fell through...

The only thing I would trade my G-89 for is a slider, other than that, I'm tickled pink with it. What a saw...:thumb:
 
Looks like a sweet saw, Alan. Some day I'd like to join the 'big toys' club myself.
...In general I agree, I can't think of a good reason I'd want to use a belt driven table saw over a direct drive....
Unless of course, it's one of the little direct drive/universal motor benchtop tablesaws that some of us started with (and some are likely still using). I'd imagine moving up from something like my little Skil benchtop death machine to my Ridgid TS3650 feels something like moving up from the contractor saw to a real direct drive saw like yours. :D
 
Looks like a sweet saw, Alan. Some day I'd like to join the 'big toys' club myself.
Not sure if you saw pics of my Parks planer, but that could be your entry to the club, they're nice. I still need to mount a motor on mine.:rolleyes: But I have the base done and the top was done by the person I bought it from.
Unless of course, it's one of the little direct drive/universal motor benchtop tablesaws that some of us started with (and some are likely still using). I'd imagine moving up from something like my little Skil benchtop death machine to my Ridgid TS3650 feels something like moving up from the contractor saw to a real direct drive saw like yours. :D
The Ridgid is a great little saw, I had the 3612 which I just sold, and it's been a great saw. But this saw is a more drastic difference, IMO, it really has that much power.

With that said, you can pick up these old machines quite easily if one looks. I see great machines going often, like Ollies, Tannies, and similar for $500. I paid $600 for this machine, and I sold my Ridgid with accessories for $500. I did have to get 3 phase going to allow the saw to run, and using a rotary phase converter is a slight annoyance.

If you're really interested in getting a piece of old iron, there's often ones for sale out of Barstow area, through government liquidations. Another saw that is a nice saw is the Delta 12-14. It is a 5HP 3 phase machine also, and weighs 750 lbs (less than half of what mine weighs).

More managable would be a Unisaw, like Jeff has. The type of saw I have is in an entirely different class, and upgrading from a Unisaw to an industrial saw (like mine) would be similar to your mention of going from the skill to the ridgid.

I have seen a lot of saws in SoCal, and there's a guy in Northridge that lists stuff on ebay all the time, like Walker Turners, Unisaws, and similar.

My suggestion, don't worry about the table saw and get the Parks planer.
 
More managable would be a Unisaw, like Jeff has. The type of saw I have is in an entirely different class, and upgrading from a Unisaw to an industrial saw (like mine) would be similar to your mention of going from the skill to the ridgid.

Not sure if that was a left handed compliment or if I should feel insulted. :D

Actually I agree with you Alan. Totally different class of machines.
 
Jeff,

It wasn't meant as an insult in any way. The Unisaw is more managable for most people, and can easily swap a 3 phase motor for a 1 phase motor to accommodate most home shops (i.e., it is belt driven). This is a big advantage of your saw, IMO, and a direct drive motor presents the problem that if it does go out you would need the exact frame to fit on the saw, or pay an outrageous price to have one rewound.

The Unisaw is a very capable machine, without question, and offered cabinetmakers a reasonably priced saw that could be used as a professional tool. With that said, the solid cast iron base saws are much more industrial than ones which uses sheet metal, even the Delta 12-14. The Unisaw is a more practical tool for most home woodworkers.

I would also consider the Walker Turner saws to be more practical as well.

Of course in my case I was too stubborn to go the practical route, I have rarely done that in my life, but it does happen sometimes. :rofl:
 
Top