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Thread: Longworth Chuck and my intentions Further UPDATE March 2010

  1. #1
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    Longworth Chuck and my intentions Further UPDATE March 2010

    So I made my own and here are a few pictures of my attempt.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    1" nut ex HD (was a nylock nut had to be modified)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Made a extender to get the chuck away from the motor because of this
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here the whole thing is mounted onto the rear plate of the chuck
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    The assembled chuck Click image for larger version. 

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    What it looks like mounted on the lathe with the clearance to the bedClick image for larger version. 

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    Now what i intend to use it for . A bowl where i have removed the base and have turned an inset to act as a replacement base.Click image for larger version. 

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    A view inside the bowl with the insert laying loose undeneath.Click image for larger version. 

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    Of course with the wobble i get cutting out the bottom of the bowl was interesting but fun.

    Ok thoughts and comments go to town.

    P>S> Still have to put finger holes into each side of the chuck to aid in tightening.
    Last edited by Rob Keeble; 03-11-2010 at 10:54 PM.
    cheers

  2. #2
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    Looks good Rob, but I have a couple of concerns.

    First, I suspect some of the wobble you're seeing is because the nut is not seating firmly on the shoulders of the spindle. You only have six small points of contact, and there's a good chance they're not exactly the same height. How those two parts mate up is pretty critical, and the more surface area that makes contact, the better.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm also a bit worried about the length of the screws holding that nut onto your extender. From the looks of the pictures, it appears there is no more than about 1/2" of thread going into the extender, and it's a small, fine thread too. Not a real robust hold, especially going into softwood (assuming the extended is pine or fir). I believe most of the folks using the nut and extender approach are inlaying the nut into the extender, then epoxying it into place. You'd need a taller extender to achieve the same standoff, but it'd give you a more secure attachment to the lathe.

    Those issues aside, it looks like you've done a fine job on the rest of the chuck. They are very handy accessories. Isn't it cool watching the rubber bumpers move in and out?
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your feedback I appreciate your experience. My engineering brain was sounding every alarm in the book when i built this. I was hoping to use a proper adapter but the article i built it off used the nut so i was bent on trying to do the same. When it came to drilling the nut etc and i realised the thickness of the screws boy I was not ammused. I am a but like Larry (When in doubt build it stout). This designed seemed to go against the grain. But with the number of screws its quiet secure and that is ash by the way. There are screws into the ash from the other side of the first faceplate.

    But now you mention the points you have I will revamp it and make a new spacer block and think about countersinking the screws and then expoxy the whole thing into the spacer block. Also maybe make a new spacer on the spindle.

    Yup those rubber bobbins moving in and out are cool. I like making goodies like this as much as the woodwork.

    Maybe with the mods I will feel more comfortable using it.
    Last edited by Rob Keeble; 06-18-2009 at 11:03 PM. Reason: spelling
    cheers

  4. #4
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    Yeppers, the ash will be more stout than softwood. The skinny screws are still a concern though, since they don't offer a lot of shear strength in the event of a catch. The screws coming into the extender from the back plate of the chuck are probably fine, but the ones through the nut are the weak link in the chain.

    For the Longworth chuck I made a few years ago, I used an aluminum faceplate from Don Pencil. Check the link on his homepage for "Seconds & Blems"...he's got 1" x 2" faceplates for $8.00. I've bought several of his "seconds", and they are all mechanically perfect. (The anodization might be munged, but that doesn't affect the functionality.)
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  5. #5
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    You are right about those screws Vaughn. Just got back from taking my son to Rugby and on the way i was thinking, (yeah i can do that before i get one in the neck) that i will get another nut and this time countersink and use a thicker machine screw with thicker shaft and drop them beneath the nut surface.

    I know about the aluminum faceplates, I actuall have one i got from LV.

    In this case i was trying to do it all according to the article and "homemade" for the fun of it. But thanks alot of pointer in regards the seconds. That sure makes it cheap.

    Interestingly when i first drilled through the nut I did not even think the walls were going to be thick enough. Those are number 6 screws.

    I would feel a lot safer with something like this if i had variable speed drive. With the reeves drive you start off at too high a speed at the lowest setting for my comfort.

    Positive side to buying a cheap lathe, you really know what you want in the upgrade and know what to look for.
    cheers

  6. #6
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    Rob I made some vacuum chucks for my lathe using big 1 X 8 nuts. What I did was draw a outline on the back of 2 X 6 round piece of maple. I use a forstner bit to drill down on the inside of my lines. The depth was about 2/3's of the nut. Then I took a wood chisel and cut the corners out that I traced from the nut just so the nut fit tight in the hole. I epoxied the nut in the hole then mounted it on the lathe once dried. I trued up the maple to run true. I drilled a hole for the vacuum to work but you wouldn't need to. They run as true as they come. I am on vacation with the grandkids. I could take pic's when I get back next week.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: That’s when you return from work one day
    and say, “Hi, Honey, I’m home – forever.”

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  7. #7
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    Brilliant idea Bernie ...Thanks why didnt i think of that Would have saved myself the pleasure of drilling those screw holes.

    I will get another piece of ash going and try your idea. But first i am going to source a new nut.

    You got any ideas like that for my other post on the tailstock movement. Vaughn came up with shims.
    cheers

  8. #8
    Hi gents new here although a floater for some time

    Rob a question why only 5 hold points not 4 or 6??

    Another way would have been to drill from the wood side through to the nut countersink into the wood using screws with thread's not wood screws of course.

    Ray

  9. #9
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    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  10. #10
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    Raymond I was going to have 4 but then my geometry did not work out so it became 5. You can have as many as you want.

    Don you made the right decision to buy the mounting plate. I have one but was having a go at improvising and being cheap. Funny thing is at HD prices when i was finished with all the wasted bits (you wont believe what they charge here for a 1"x8 nut) I could have bought an nice ali one from LV.

    I blame it all on Stu. He woke me up to the adventure i used to have back in the old days, making my own things. Its much more fun.

    Some day I will grow up but not before i have a welder, milling machine and metal lathe to add to the shop.
    cheers

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