Recession/Depression low cost workbench...UPDATE June 13 2010 progress report

...Vaughn ( Mike) I really wish i had listened to your sketch. But i did not want to use the walnut i have as cauls that is far too special to me.:) And as for pine cauls well we all know how pine is...

Rob, the cauls don't get damaged, especially if you put a piece of wax paper between them and the workpiece to keep the glue squeeze-out off of them. And pine works just as well as hardwood. They don't need too be tightened down real hard -- just firm. I realize you're past that stage now on this project, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind for the next one.

And yeppers, a good sharp chisel is a real eye-opener, huh? :D
 
Rob, the cauls don't get damaged, especially if you put a piece of wax paper between them and the workpiece to keep the glue squeeze-out off of them. And pine works just as well as hardwood. They don't need too be tightened down real hard -- just firm. I realize you're past that stage now on this project, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind for the next one.

And yeppers, a good sharp chisel is a real eye-opener, huh? :D

A TIP:

To make a permanent caul with the pine, (or other Soft Wood wood) used for the cauls, if you want to provide the same pressure at the middle of the caul (to keep the center glue up joint edges aligned evenly), lay the caul on a STRONG, flat table, then place a 3/16" to 1/4" spacer, (depending on how long the caul is), under the MIDDLE of the caul and then clamp both ends down until they are flat against the table at the ends. Next, lay a wood pencil flat on the table and run it across the table, marking the bottom part of the caul. Release the clamps and when the caul straightens out, it will have a nice gentle curve marked along the bottom that you can cut along with a bandsaw. Sand it smooth and place a heavy clear packing tape along the bottom to keep glue from sticking to it. Now when you use the caul and clamp both ends, you will have an even pressure against the workpiece all the way across the glueup.:thumb::D

Note: If using a real strong, hard wood, you won't need quite as much curve, so experiment with using a thinner spacer.

Hope this helps.
 
Norman, the curved cauls are good for cases where you're actually using them for clamping pressure, like gluing edge banding on sheet goods. Straight cauls are fine, if not preferable, for simple alignment (where you don't want them too tight, or you'll prevent the primary clamps from applying the necessary pressure).
 
Norman, the curved cauls are good for cases where you're actually using them for clamping pressure, like gluing edge banding on sheet goods. Straight cauls are fine, if not preferable, for simple alignment (where you don't want them too tight, or you'll prevent the primary clamps from applying the necessary pressure).

Yeah, I've use both straight and curved cauls, and when using cauls you do have to make sure you get the clamping pressure ahead of the caul pressure (sometimes releasing the caul pressure and retightening). I normally use a block of wood and a hammer to make sure the caul is holding the edges aligned properly, BUT......occasionally on wide glueups, the softwood cauls bow up in the middle letting the edges slip just a touch and that was when I started using the curved cauls on the wide glueups. (This also is helpful when some of the wood you're gluing up decides it doesn't want to be a flat board anymore).:rolleyes::D I also always use at least three cauls, and four or more for longer glueups, (which is a lot easier/faster than extra sanding).:D
 
lookun good rob,,, mortise and tenons can be fun huh:D:thumb:

You bet Larry, for once doing some handwork made me feel like a real woodworker rather than a machine operator.:D


sharp chisels are nice eh?

Eh! is an understatement Todd, felt like i came of age.:rofl::rofl:

nice bench man, when I think 2x6's or 2x8's, Im just thinking lag screws and glue.......nice work.......its turning out to be a beauty.

Allen thanks you will be next, hold off on that ultimate vice purchase, but like all the other bits and pieces you have assembled and modified in your shop, 1) That lathe will be coming....just dont buy the junk I did:D 2) You will find a real bench will be another huge pull on the path of woodworking.

Rob, the cauls don't get damaged, especially if you put a piece of wax paper between them and the workpiece to keep the glue squeeze-out off of them. And pine works just as well as hardwood. They don't need too be tightened down real hard -- just firm. I realize you're past that stage now on this project, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind for the next one.

And yeppers, a good sharp chisel is a real eye-opener, huh? :D

I should have listened to you Vaughn and asked more questions on the cauls. Its not as if i did not know of them, it was again the impatience and perception of the poor value of a softwood caul. :);)

A TIP:

To make a permanent caul with the pine, (or other Soft Wood wood) used for the cauls, if you want to provide the same pressure at the middle of the caul (to keep the center glue up joint edges aligned evenly), lay the caul on a STRONG, flat table, then place a 3/16" to 1/4" spacer, (depending on how long the caul is), under the MIDDLE of the caul and then clamp both ends down until they are flat against the table at the ends. Next, lay a wood pencil flat on the table and run it across the table, marking the bottom part of the caul. Release the clamps and when the caul straightens out, it will have a nice gentle curve marked along the bottom that you can cut along with a bandsaw. Sand it smooth and place a heavy clear packing tape along the bottom to keep glue from sticking to it. Now when you use the caul and clamp both ends, you will have an even pressure against the workpiece all the way across the glueup.:thumb::D

Note: If using a real strong, hard wood, you won't need quite as much curve, so experiment with using a thinner spacer.

Hope this helps.


Ok Norman ....where were you when i needed this info.:):rofl::rofl: Just kidding thanks for the tip, i have been wondering about how to get a sensible curve on cauls for when the wood has been milled and then misbehaves and one wants to bring em back in. May i suggest that this tip on making cauls gets placed in the Tips and Tutorial section of the forum.:thumb:

Wow, great craftsmanship.
I would love to learn how to sharpen like that. Its a great skill to have.

Bob thank you for the compliment I am not sure i would personally agree with the status you have afforded me. But hey I will take everything i can get, we all get to beat ourselves up more than enough:rofl:

Just a point Bob, you too can sharpen like this and for very little dollars. Its more intimidating in appearance than it actually is. Take a look at the Fine Woodworking videos that Gary Rogowski starred in and you will see how basic it is but...follow the advice and rules to the letter. I can only tell you I am still on a high over those chisels. I feel like a cub scout that got his first star.:rofl::rofl:

Cheers guys hope to get more done on the bench this weekend given a long weekend here in Canada and we aint going away. :thumb:
 
Guys...LOML will be only tooo happy if i get out of her hair. We will be spending 10 days together on vacation soon.:thumb: Then shes going to be saying ....oh i wish you brought that shop of yours with so you can get out of my hair.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Rob,

Nice job on the workbench.

I still havent finished my bench. The vices that I bought last fall are still in their boxes. I just finshed a sewing center for a neighbor - I will be taking pictures tomorrow or Sunday. Now, I am working on finsihing the cold storage area of my shop - making it part of the heated shop. Then I have to relocate equipment, organize, etc. Then, I will finish the workbench.
 
October 14 update

Well its being ongoing this project. Had to sidetrack first to learn a few things about planes and make a purchase of a jointer plane to be able to flatten the top.

Here are pictures of the progress on the top. I know this is a little overboard considering its a (pine, spruce, fir ) top and its a little soft but this top and bench is practice for the ultimate one to be built next time round.

So with a jointer plane i took the bow out of the bottom and smoothed it with the smoothing plane. (Wish i had been more patient and used cauls in the clamping) Then i sanded it really smooth with ROS. At this stage my smoothing activity and skill left a lot to be desired.

I came back to it later to do the top after soaking up some more advice given here on tuning and sharpening my smoothing plane and between the jointer and the smoothing plane finished the top with no sanding.

Grain goes in all directions on this slab (again not paying attention) so learning to sharpen that smoothing plane and set it correctly was key. Walking on a cloud is how i describe the feeling i had on Saturday when i spent the afternoon smoothing the top and making fine silky curlies.

It reminded me of the movie "My Fair Lady" where i think it was Rex Harrison that said "by jove shes got it" when the girl he had taken off the streets of London to teach to speak english finally spoke with the correct elocution and pronounciation.

Well in terms of getting my smoothing plane to the point where it did just that I was saying out loud to nobody(actually it was you Bill S) by jove i have got it. :p:D:rofl::rofl:

So here is the proof in pictures.

More work has been completed and will follow just have not taken the pictures yet as i intended to post these on Sat so camera was left inside for Monday work progress shots.


Lessons learnt from this excercise so far are dont be a cowboy and shoot first and ask questions after. Ask questions first and then take the advice.:);)


Another thing....what absolutely amazed me in this experience was how flat you can get a piece of laminated wood with a jointer plane and some elbow grease.
 

Attachments

  • Bottom side flattened.jpg
    Bottom side flattened.jpg
    65.2 KB · Views: 169
  • Bottom side smooth and flat.jpg
    Bottom side smooth and flat.jpg
    76 KB · Views: 169
  • smooth top with plane only showing light reflection.jpg
    smooth top with plane only showing light reflection.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 176
  • Top side flattened and smoothed with plane only.jpg
    Top side flattened and smoothed with plane only.jpg
    67.5 KB · Views: 179
Good work Rob!!! I am still following hoping to build one like it in the near future. Without the handplane, can it come off of the jointer flat enough?
Oh, no problem:doh:, CALLING LARRY!!!!! (can I come over and bring my bench top someday and "play"???
Seriously, I have been worried about the handplaning, but while typing this, thought of taking it to Larry's, so that problem is probably solved.
Are you putting a deadman on the front of your bench?
 
Here are pictures of the progress on the top. I know this is a little overboard considering its a (pine, spruce, fir ) top and its a little soft but this top and bench is practice for the ultimate one to be built next time round.

That bench looks pretty "ultimate" to me, Rob! It looks great!!! You do good work, partner.

Nothing wrong with a "soft" top.
 
Beatiful fluffy shavings Rob, and an even better workbench top:thumb:
But I thought that you mentioned a jointer and the plane on the pic is a smoother... #4 Maybe?

Making another bench is another thing on my list, I got all the hardware but I can't make up my mind about what wood to use, Pine or Hard Maple. Or pine with hard maple laminated on the top:dunno:
Obviously the difference is on the price, and that detail is stopping me to star making it. I can't take a decision either way, maybe I should post a poll.;);)
 
nice progress mate.....you'll be buying kanna's next :thumb:

Oh Patrick can you explain what a Kanna is ?:dunno:


Good work Rob!!! I am still following hoping to build one like it in the near future. Without the handplane, can it come off of the jointer flat enough?
Oh, no problem:doh:, CALLING LARRY!!!!! (can I come over and bring my bench top someday and "play"???
Seriously, I have been worried about the handplaning, but while typing this, thought of taking it to Larry's, so that problem is probably solved.
Are you putting a deadman on the front of your bench?

Yup Jonathan, after following Stu's post and then reading Chris Schwarz book on Workbench Design which Stu mentioned in his post, I realized that a deadman is essential part of a workbench if you are going to work boards etc.

But as for you cheating and running to Uncle Larry there to use the wide belt sander, I think we will have to cut you off at the pass with a posse and turn you back to learning to use a plane. Now should you ask him to teach you how to plane that top well then the Sherrif and his boys might let you continue on your way.:D;):wave:

Rob. that is looking great! :thumb:

Thanks Stu and Bill for the comments.:thumb:

One of my first projects after the shop is built is a workbench. I will be referencing this thread when the time comes.

I would suggest you look to Stus thread and others before mine. This is the el cheapo $175 workbench. But if you are like me it is even less cause my vise was donated so its cost me only the wood. Of course there would be some that would say it cost me the price of a jointer plane too but thats for the shop as a whole no?:D

Rick I actually think a workbench is like a chicken and an egg story. Which comes first. I wish i had built one a long time ago. But this is a journey eventually as Glenn Bradley pointed out you reach a point where you have the neccessary bits and pieces to just go in the shop and make something. A bench is one of those pieces I found i needed badly.:thumb:

How do you know when the surface is dead flat? (whatever method is used)

I read somewhere :dunno: that when you get it right you know. Well i was using my perfectly straight straight edge and when i started to get close i rubbed pencil everywhere where the high spots were. Then you reach a point where Aaaaahhhhh it just happens and you do know. That occurs with the jointer provided its sharp. Then you find you can take the smoother and literally shave it clean like a man shaving with a cut throat razor.

Toni you are right that is the smoother, did not think to put my ebay jointer in the picture. Shes a beaut and works very very well. Has not been messed with at all. Just did a blade sharpening and away I went.

Thanks for all the comments guys I will post more soon as i get pictures.:thumb:
 
Top