allen levine
Member
- Messages
- 12,344
- Location
- new york city burbs
nice bench man, when I think 2x6's or 2x8's, Im just thinking lag screws and glue.......nice work.......its turning out to be a beauty.
...Vaughn ( Mike) I really wish i had listened to your sketch. But i did not want to use the walnut i have as cauls that is far too special to me. And as for pine cauls well we all know how pine is...
Rob, the cauls don't get damaged, especially if you put a piece of wax paper between them and the workpiece to keep the glue squeeze-out off of them. And pine works just as well as hardwood. They don't need too be tightened down real hard -- just firm. I realize you're past that stage now on this project, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind for the next one.
And yeppers, a good sharp chisel is a real eye-opener, huh?
Norman, the curved cauls are good for cases where you're actually using them for clamping pressure, like gluing edge banding on sheet goods. Straight cauls are fine, if not preferable, for simple alignment (where you don't want them too tight, or you'll prevent the primary clamps from applying the necessary pressure).
lookun good rob,,, mortise and tenons can be fun huh
sharp chisels are nice eh?
nice bench man, when I think 2x6's or 2x8's, Im just thinking lag screws and glue.......nice work.......its turning out to be a beauty.
Rob, the cauls don't get damaged, especially if you put a piece of wax paper between them and the workpiece to keep the glue squeeze-out off of them. And pine works just as well as hardwood. They don't need too be tightened down real hard -- just firm. I realize you're past that stage now on this project, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind for the next one.
And yeppers, a good sharp chisel is a real eye-opener, huh?
A TIP:
To make a permanent caul with the pine, (or other Soft Wood wood) used for the cauls, if you want to provide the same pressure at the middle of the caul (to keep the center glue up joint edges aligned evenly), lay the caul on a STRONG, flat table, then place a 3/16" to 1/4" spacer, (depending on how long the caul is), under the MIDDLE of the caul and then clamp both ends down until they are flat against the table at the ends. Next, lay a wood pencil flat on the table and run it across the table, marking the bottom part of the caul. Release the clamps and when the caul straightens out, it will have a nice gentle curve marked along the bottom that you can cut along with a bandsaw. Sand it smooth and place a heavy clear packing tape along the bottom to keep glue from sticking to it. Now when you use the caul and clamp both ends, you will have an even pressure against the workpiece all the way across the glueup.
Note: If using a real strong, hard wood, you won't need quite as much curve, so experiment with using a thinner spacer.
Hope this helps.
Wow, great craftsmanship.
I would love to learn how to sharpen like that. Its a great skill to have.
Well spend that weekend in the best way possible! Might want to include the wife, not spend all your time with the bench!!!!!!!
Here are pictures of the progress on the top. I know this is a little overboard considering its a (pine, spruce, fir ) top and its a little soft but this top and bench is practice for the ultimate one to be built next time round.
nice progress mate.....you'll be buying kanna's next
Good work Rob!!! I am still following hoping to build one like it in the near future. Without the handplane, can it come off of the jointer flat enough?
Oh, no problem, CALLING LARRY!!!!! (can I come over and bring my bench top someday and "play"???
Seriously, I have been worried about the handplaning, but while typing this, thought of taking it to Larry's, so that problem is probably solved.
Are you putting a deadman on the front of your bench?
Rob. that is looking great!
One of my first projects after the shop is built is a workbench. I will be referencing this thread when the time comes.
I would suggest you look to Stus thread and others before mine. This is the el cheapo $175 workbench. But if you are like me it is even less cause my vise was donated so its cost me only the wood. Of course there would be some that would say it cost me the price of a jointer plane too but thats for the shop as a whole no?
Rick I actually think a workbench is like a chicken and an egg story. Which comes first. I wish i had built one a long time ago. But this is a journey eventually as Glenn Bradley pointed out you reach a point where you have the neccessary bits and pieces to just go in the shop and make something. A bench is one of those pieces I found i needed badly.
How do you know when the surface is dead flat? (whatever method is used)