veneering question

Mike Grimm

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Messages
159
Ok, tackling my first ever re-veneering job, looking for suggestions on a particular brand of contact cement/adhesive to use. I'm good w/ the process, just looking for suggestions on what kind of adhesive to use.

Lets hear them.
 
If you're using real veneer - solid wood and not paper backed - contact cement is not the best solution. There are a number of glues that work well with veneer, see Joe Woodworker site for some info.

To apply solid veneer, the best clamping method is a vacuum bag.

Mike
 
If this is a peice already built, used cuals and a peice of 3/4" ply to press it on. This what I do and it works great. Just take some blue tape and tape the veneer in place so it does not slide as you place the clamps and ply in place.
 
If you use Al's technique, I suggest something like sheet of plastic between the veneer and the plywood. If glue leaks through the veneer, it'll glue the plywood down. Then when you go to remove the plywood, you can pull out a piece of veneer as you take it off.

If your veneer is very stable and the glue is water based, I've ironed the veneer on. Say you use pva glue - lay your veneer on the surface and then use an iron, starting in the center, to set the glue. Test on a piece of scrap first to see how the veneer takes the heat. You can put a piece of cloth between the iron and veneer to protect the veneer.

This will NOT work on unstable veneers, such as a burl or curly bubinga, but will work fine on regular veneer like mahogany, walnut, etc.

Mike
 
Since you mentioned "re-veneering" the piece, a good choice of adhesive might be hide glue. On older furniture, it's likely to be the glue that was used originally.

If you go this route, you don't need an expensive glue pot or hammer. I use a $9 small crock pot to heat the water and any glass jar for the glue mix. A plastic putty knife works well in place of a veneer hammer.
 
You can do contact cement with paper backed veneer. I suppose you already know that the wood on paper backed veneer is extremely thin so be very careful if you sand it.

Personally, I wouldn't put paper backed veneer on "furniture" - I'd only use it for architectural stuff, like columns.

Mike
 
Contact cement under veneer can soften in warm environments and cause the veneer to separate from the substrate. I've seen it happen and it ain't pretty. I won't use contact cement for any type of veneering.
 
Contact cement under veneer can soften in warm environments and cause the veneer to separate from the substrate. I've seen it happen and it ain't pretty. I won't use contact cement for any type of veneering.

nor will i, lots of box-shops do though just gotta be careful if ya` spray lacquer over it `cause the solvents will loosen the contact cement.
 
I'm with you guys and will only use contact cement where I have to and only on paper backed veneer. With paper backed, I haven't had any problems with it loosening, either from heat or lacquer. But, like you, I'll use other glue if I can.

Mike
 
Ok, I have to finish this so it will be getting lacquer on it, along with stain and a sealer....so contact cement is out, what would be good to use then with the paper backed stuff?
 
Ok, I have to finish this so it will be getting lacquer on it, along with stain and a sealer....so contact cement is out, what would be good to use then with the paper backed stuff?

I use Titebond on paper-backed veneers and on some solids. On open-grained solid veneer, I've been using a cold-press glue from JWW. Check here for more information on a variety of glues.
 
So what is the process for using the Titebond? I know they have several different varieties, is there one specifically for doing veneer work? Do you apply it the same as contact cement, put it on, let it dry, then press together and roll out?
 
There are two different methods for using an adhesive like Titebond. I've seen both white and yellow glue used.

One -- spread glue on the substrate and the veneer. Then use a clamping system to press the two together until the glue is set. For most items, I use my vacuum bagging system.

Two -- spread glue on the substrate and the veneer. Let the first coat dry until glossy but still a little sticky, then apply another thin coat of glue. Align the veneer on the substrate, rub into place with a roller or burnishing tool, then set the glue with heat from an iron.
 
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