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Thread: Picking the collective brain re my DC

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
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    4,352

    Picking the collective brain re my DC

    I think this is general enough a question to post here... just picking the collective brain for idea.... I have a HF 2 hp dust collector... one of those double bag jobs. I've had it about 2 or 3 years and works pretty good... it's outside in a separate closet on the end of the shop. About a week ago I changed the lower bag... in doing so, switched the switch at the motor. Later I was running it, it just slowly dropped off line and stopped... I had noticed that it wasn't pulling as much air as before. When it stopped I opened the closet and checked all my connections... good power everywhere, so I figured the switch was bad again.... flipped it back and forth a couple of times, no results, so I pulled the cover off the impeller and checked to see if it was clogged and maybe caused the motor to over heat or something?? With the cover off and my hands well away from the impeller, I flipped the switch again, it kicked on full blast... evidently I do have some dust in the switch, so will need to look at that soon... I normally just leave the switch in on position and use a wall switch inside the shop to power the plug in the closet.... I think when the impeller kicked on it ticked the corner of the cover, and maybe bent one of the blades... now when I kick the DC on it makes a lot of extra noise and seems to vibrate .....

    Question is, will I be able to straighten the blade - assuming I can determine which is bent - or have I got to replace the impeller now that I've messed it up... and where would a likely source of parts be?
    I'm also concerned that the vibration may take out the bearings on the impeller as well.... thoughts??
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  2. #2
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    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Ellis View Post
    ...Question is, will I be able to straighten the blade - assuming I can determine which is bent - or have I got to replace the impeller now that I've messed it up... and where would a likely source of parts be?
    I'm also concerned that the vibration may take out the bearings on the impeller as well.... thoughts??
    If the impeller is welded or riveted metal, you'll probably be able to straighten it. If it's cast metal, probably not - it'll break.

    If it's already broken, you'll need a new one.

    The DC manufacturer will be the most likely source for parts, but I think that both Oneida and Bill Penz both sell some replacement impellers, too.

    You're right to worry about vibration messing up the bearings. It'll put quite a strain on them.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    Look in the Yellow pages or Yellowpages.com for W.W. Grangers. They have impellers and will be less cost then the manufacturer.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  4. #4
    Not too sure about HF but my Grizz DC has such a massive impellor that I can't see how the cover could have bent it. UN-plug and look inside for a bit of rag wrapped up in it (has happened to me)

    As for the switch"
    I normally just leave the switch in on position and use a wall switch inside the shop to power the plug in the closet....
    Wall switch cannot withstand the load of a 1 or 2 HP motor at startup. I would think the switch is fried. You need a Motor starter or Heater switch to set the motor in motion. could be you are not getting good feed pulsation in the service from a burnt switch.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Baer View Post
    Look in the Yellow pages or Yellowpages.com for W.W. Grangers. They have impellers and will be less cost then the manufacturer.
    Don,
    I live in a town that doesn't even have a red light.. closest W.W. Grainger I know of is in Houston. But you're right.. probably good source.
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Simpson View Post
    Not too sure about HF but my Grizz DC has such a massive impellor that I can't see how the cover could have bent it. UN-plug and look inside for a bit of rag wrapped up in it (has happened to me)

    As for the switch"

    Wall switch cannot withstand the load of a 1 or 2 HP motor at startup. I would think the switch is fried. You need a Motor starter or Heater switch to set the motor in motion. could be you are not getting good feed pulsation in the service from a burnt switch.
    Hey Bill,
    Thanks for your reply... the cover was off the impeller and I laid it down on the dolly in front of the impeller and evidently didn't notice that a corner of the cover was actually protruding into the impeller housing... when I kicked it on, I heard the impeller nick the corner and kicked it out of the way... that part is my own fault... should have been watching more closely.... I was just wondering if since it looks like a welded impeller fan if I would have any success in trying to straighten a bent blade or if I'm out the cost of a new impeller.

    As for the switch, the wall switch has been so far so good, but I will definitely look into a heavier duty switch... the switch that's given me most trouble is the motor switch mounted on the DC itself... I've already replaced one that got dust or something in it and fried.. the current switch is an industrial style similar to the original.

    Everything is working again, but I do have a vibration that I didn't have before, so I'm thinking a blade may be slightly out of alignment and I'm probably going to ruin the bearings... as Jim suggested.
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    Hi,

    How about removing the DC mounted switch. Use wire nuts in the box and put a box cover over the opening.

    Second thought: Make sure the DC mounted swx is "On" and put a baggie, or a can or a whatever over it to keep the dust away.

    I have a remote on my DC. It was about $25. That is really nice because it came with two controllers. I have a controller at each end of the shop. Mine was from Penn State Industries. It handles my 220v 15amp motor.

    I have other remote controllers for lighter tasks. HF sells a group of three with three switches. In other words any one controller controls any of the three circuits. Home Depot sells remotes at Christmas time. However, they are a bit wimpy and I would use for lights only.

    Of the lights I use in the Shop, the switch for the one nearest to the door into the house is about 12 feet. I have a remote for an "enter and leave" light. It was cheaper and easier than adding wiring to have one shop luminaire controlled by the door to the house. It keeps me from breaking my leg when I close the shop down and am 12 very dark feet from the door (of course I never have any obstacles in the way to worry about in the dark).
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Ellis View Post
    I was just wondering if since it looks like a welded impeller fan if I would have any success in trying to straighten a bent blade or if I'm out the cost of a new impeller.
    Dunno what happened ... pretty sure I responded to your post. Must have closed the window after previewing.

    Anyway, here's some pics of one I straightened at the Spice Shop (print client).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It runs next to a stone flour mill.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
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    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
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    Ed,
    That looks like a serious impeller... Thanks for the reply.... think I'll open mine again and see if maybe I can spot the bent blade... if not, then will look into a new one.
    Chuck
    Tellico Plains, TN
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/TellicoTurnings
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  10. #10
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    Odessa, Tx
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    1,813
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Ellis View Post
    Ed,
    That looks like a serious impeller... Thanks for the reply.... think I'll open mine again and see if maybe I can spot the bent blade... if not, then will look into a new one.
    Chuck, also look for any nicks in the blades and if there are some, smooth them out with a round file, then if if still vibrates, you will need to go to the opposite blade from the one you dressed with the file, and file off the same Weight of material that is is missing from the one you dressed. Balance is real important on rotating parts, and especially fans.

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