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Thread: Older Radial Arm Saw Problem

  1. #1
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    Older Radial Arm Saw Problem

    I spend most of my time in Lathe Land but have a problem with my radial arm saw. DeWalt/Black&Decker radial arm saw. Quit working all of a sudden. Changed the start capacitor with no success. Guy at the B&D store was pretty sure that I would find that the switch was bad. I've now pulled it out of the saw. One button on, one button off. Four poles on the back side labeled L1, L2, 1, and 2. Any suggestions on how to test this switch? I can put it back into the saw if necessary.
    Working flat so I can play round,
    Doug Miller

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  2. #2
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    so what yu are saying is that you had to switch two switches to turn it on? when it worked?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  3. #3
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    Ohm meter. I assume you don't have but but someone you know does.
    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
    the good fortune to run into the ones I do,
    and the eyesight to tell the difference.


    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
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  4. #4
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    No Larry. One switch, two buttons. You push the on button in and the off button pops out. Push the off button and the on button pops out. It's like they see-saw back and forth.

    Can I check resistence between poles or do I check power going through the poles? And which poles?
    Working flat so I can play round,
    Doug Miller

    Repentance Is The
    Prerequisite For
    Gods Forgiveness

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Horton View Post
    Ohm meter. I assume you don't have but but someone you know does.
    I do have an Ohm meter. Where do I check the resistance?
    Working flat so I can play round,
    Doug Miller

    Repentance Is The
    Prerequisite For
    Gods Forgiveness

  6. #6
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    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    Doug if the switch is out of the circuit check continuety from L1 to 1 and L2 to 2. When on it should be zero resistance and off thould be infinity.

    hth
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
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  7. #7
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    On I get zero resistance between L1,1 and L2,2.
    Off I get zero resistance between L1,1 but infinity between L2 and 2

    Pretty obvious that all 4 poles need to be cleaned well.
    Having no resistance between L1 and 1 with the switch off doesn't sound right does it?
    Working flat so I can play round,
    Doug Miller

    Repentance Is The
    Prerequisite For
    Gods Forgiveness

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Miller View Post
    ...Having no resistance between L1 and 1 with the switch off doesn't sound right does it?
    I believe if those poles are for the common leg, then perhaps it's intended to be that way. It's only necessary to break the connection on the hot leg to turn the motor on and off.

    Since you are getting no resistance on both sides of the switch when it's in the 'On' position, I don't think the switch is the cause of your problem. It sounds like it's doing its job. Out of curiosity, have you checked L1 to L2 and 1 to 2? Both should show infinite resistance regardless of the switch position. If not, then perhaps we're incorrect suggesting the L1 to 1 and L2 to 2 orientation.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  9. #9
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    Is it a TEFC motor? If it is, just take off the back over the fan and centrifugal switch and blow out with your air hose. Might work. I learned that here for a piece of my equipment. Simple and never had a problem again.

  10. #10
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    The double pole switch is to make your saw safer by disconnecting both sides if you use it wired for 240. If you wire it for 120, the white wire should go to the side that doesn't turn off (L1). If it is wired for 240, it will work, but it isn't real safe since part of the motor will be hot (120 volts above ground) when the saw is off. For 240 volts I would replace the switch.

    If you have an ohmmeter, you probably also have a voltmeter - you should read the line voltage between 1 and 2 when it is on, and zero when it is off. You should have the line voltage between L1 and L2 all the time. If not, check the plug and outlet.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

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