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Thread: Router Table v1, v2.0

  1. #1
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    Router Table v1, v2.0

    Hey guys I did some looking around for various ways to build a router table and as I just need the top atm (will be using saw horses for the base temporarily) I was wondering how this looks. I went with a torsion box for the top so that it stays flat, but I’m a bit concerned if it may be to thick, The first draft being about 3 1/2 " thick I'd like to make it as thin as possible. what would you say the thinnest I would want to go for grid is. Is there a good "calculation" say taking in account the thickness of the skins you are trying to keep flat?

    Thanks for any advice, I'm hoping to knock this out this weekend If I don't end up working on installing light fixtures at the house.

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    Last edited by Chris Marlor; 08-16-2009 at 08:49 PM.
    Focusing your life on only one path does nothing but close your mind to the infinite possibilities that surround us.

    Think out side the box for the box is small, cold, dark, and doesn’t have cookies.

  2. #2
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    Can't speak to thickness, can't even say I know a lot about torsion boxes - however, just looking at your design tells me there is an inherent weakness at the 1/3 width points because your grid is not continuous from side to side. I'd pull the grid apart a bit to allow for a continuous run from side to side at the top and bottom of the insert plate. This will double the number of continuous runs in the grid.
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  3. #3
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    If i read that right and most likely i didn't do you mean like this but also maybe add a few more to lessen the amount of "empty" area?

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    Focusing your life on only one path does nothing but close your mind to the infinite possibilities that surround us.

    Think out side the box for the box is small, cold, dark, and doesn’t have cookies.

  4. #4
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    I was wondering how clear I was making myself. Obviously, your intelligence won out over my inability to express myself.

    Yes, that's about what I meant. Now your side to side grid is continuous. This should be stronger than breaking those grid members part way across.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
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  5. #5
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    Looks like a fun project. I like your ideas for the layout of the top, but IMHO the number of grid pieces in the torsion box is serious overkill for a 2' x 3' surface that will only be supporting the weight of a router and the occasional stick of lumber. As you have it drawn, it looks like you could park a 747 on it.

    If it were me, I'd have two grid members running north-south, and two running east-west, creating the frame around the router plate. Add the outside edges, slap a top and bottom skin on it, and call it done. You'd still have grid areas less than 1 foot square, and unless you're using 1/8" Masonite or something equally flexible for the top, I don't think you're gonna see anything other than flat.
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  6. #6
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    I think you may find the 3 1/2 in. thickness of your torsion box to get in your way if/when you want to make an under the table adjustment. That thickness will put the router into a 'well' that will restrict under table access.

    Not as elegant as a torsion box, but you may want to consider a 3/4 mdf top with about 1 1/2 edge banding and a 3/4 stringer across the underside of the top, just behind the opening. I think that would be more than stiff enough for any, but maybe the heaviest routers.

    When set it on saw horses, the span will be less than the full width. And once part of a table the top will likely have even more support, so deflection shouldn't be a major issue. Local flatness and setting the top flush are more likely to be issues. Mdf will help with the local flatness.

  7. #7
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    Lots of good info here so far. I would express a desire for more table in front of the bit and second the concern about thickness based on which router you plan to use. Some have controls that could be restricted and some will not. You can judge that based on your router. Looks like a good project that will be well enjoyed once completed.
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  8. #8
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    i second the motion of more room in frt...and as for the thickness 3.5" is to much... like others have said yu need room for router adjustement and being able to get to them.. your a smart fellar so go and do some comparing on already made tops.. then use that research for yours.. alot of them out there are no more than two layers of mdf..total thicknesss od 1.5"
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the tips, looks like i have 9 7/8" from center bit till front edge are you guys thinking a full 12 in aka center bit at center table? How far from center bit should the fence go to maximum. I think if I set it center then then I may be able to set the fence no more then 9 inches away and still be able to lock it down without building on a extention peice that would fold up from the back later. And realy if the peice I'm working on is that big may be best for me to route it off the table.
    Focusing your life on only one path does nothing but close your mind to the infinite possibilities that surround us.

    Think out side the box for the box is small, cold, dark, and doesn’t have cookies.

  10. #10
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    Chris, in my limited experience with the fence on my router table, it seems I've always had the fence very close to the bit. I haven't had a need to run a workpiece between the fence and the bit (and not sure I'd want to, since trapping a board between a fence and a spinning bit seems like a bad idea to me). I've always just used the fence to limit how much of the workpiece is fed into the bit.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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