roll top desk in pine

matt fonner

Member
Messages
24
Location
Cols, OH
I am preparing to finish this desk but the roll top has me a little worried. I have started sanding everything and think I will use a sanding sealer before putting on the finish. I want a darker finish and plan on using minwax polyshade in the bombay mahogony in satin.
I plan to rag on the stain but is this going to work with the roll top? How do you keep evrything from sticking together. All those slats & grooves ...:huh:

Here's the desk

DSC01595.jpg
 
another suggestion would be to have the back loose so yu can insert the roll top after the finish stages are done..if its together your gonna have trouble with stain of any kind.. clear finish would be easier and less noticable,, but we have some refinisher folks in our group who might now of a trick to get it done if its enclosed already.
 
Yikes, I'm not liking what I am hearing ... :(
I got this desk top second hand from someone who purchased it from an unfinished furniture store. I will look to see if I can get the top out, but it doesn't look too good. Maybe a couple coats of wax are in my future.
I have thoght about a clear coat because the pine looks great.
Any alternatives to suggest?
 
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OK, I can get the bottom off and the top wiil come out. The roll top part, though, is glued up with a cloth strap to hold it all together.

DSC01600.jpg
 
You should be able to disassemble the door by removing the strap. NUMBER THE PIECES AS YOU TAKE THEM APART! You can reassemble using some glue and canvas. You should be able to find some good info from others here or via a google search on "tambour door".
 
from the looks of your picture it has been decanvased before,, the shaded area is a dead give away.. you got lucky on gettin it apart..now your safe to make it any color under the sun:D
 
Wow, That's a nice roll top! I have a roll top desk that was passed down, it's big compared to others I have seen. I was amazed at how it worked, the time it would take to make and how HEAVY it was.

I love mine, it's so neat how it's designed. I've never owned a piece of furniture this intricate that moved the way a roll top does.

It will be worth it in the end when you have it stained and put all back together, you will LOVE it! I'm never selling mine, it's getting passed down in the family:)
 
I'd have to look that up, but I seem to remember one process that uses canvas, full coverage on the back of the door - not just strips, and contact cement.
 
Erin, that's the idea. My Dad has been asking for a desk since he uses his kitchen table for all his paper/bill traffic. Since he doesn't use a computer I thought this would be perfect. I'm a beginner, so I was looking for something used. The inside had a practically useless mail slot thing. I wanted something more like pigeon holes for the letters and stuff. I made 2 individual ones that will slip into place. I'll post some pictures of them soon.
Having said all that, this is supposed to be his 80th birthday gift next Saturday. I'm not going to make it ... that's ehy I've decided to listen to the advise here and take apart the door.
 
That sounds like a great present, I bet he will just love it, late or not he's going to cherish it:)

My roll top has 5 canvas strips under there, I think there glued then stapled by the looks of it.
 
I'd have to look that up, but I seem to remember one process that uses canvas, full coverage on the back of the door - not just strips, and contact cement.

Norm Abrams did a 2 part build of a roll top desk on the New Yankee Workshop. He used contact cement and used a piece of artist canvas that covered the entire area of the slats except the part that rides in the slots.

You can probably find the video on his web site if you wanted to see ho he did it.
 
As said , seal it with 3 coats Lacquer sealer then sand and tint the lacquer sealer with the color tone you want , spray on light coats 3 or 4 coats, then clear coat.
Problem with pine is the spotty look you get if you did not pre seal the pine with a stain preventive. Even then you will still get high lights that will not take stain.

Also get a piece of Muslin and glue it to the entire back of the slide, this will help keep it from binding up.
 
Ok, so I'm in the middle of this thing and I am wondering what to do to wrap it up. So far this is what has been done :
* Sanded evrything in this order; 150, 220, 320, wiped down with damp rag, 320 lightly again.
* Applied sanding sealer
* 1st coat of the polyshade
*Rubbed over it with 0000 steel wool (why is it we sand with sand paper but not steel wool :rolleyes: )
*2nd coat of poly shade

This is where I am. Very pleased with how it is turning out. Finish is nice and deep, glossy, just like I envisioned it. At this point I'm not sure how to complete it. I guess I will put a coat of clear poly over the flat surfaces, which would mean steel wool on them to give the poly something to hold.
Where would you guys go from here?

note : I have no spray equipment.
 
Isn't Polyshades polyurethane varnish with color ?. If so why is it necessary to add varnish on top of varnish or do you feel you need another coat of varnish.
As for steel wool I don't think its a good idea to ever use it between coats of finish. If you don't remove every small piece that breaks off(and they will) the water vapor present in the air will turn them black. Save they steel wool for rubbing out the finish.

Regards
Jerry
 
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