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Thread: Router wing extension in TS

  1. #1
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    Router wing extension in TS

    OK guys & gals,
    I was out in the shop tonight ( imagine that) and am taking a short break before heading back out to clean up some more. ( decided the dust rhinos on the bench were a bit rude).

    While I was out there, I measured the hole I'm going to fill with my router extension, and for fun checked my piece of countertop which i've used to 'glue up' the cutting boards on, etc... Lo and behold it almost Exactly matches the dimensions (20"x27") only missing by 1/16 on the long, and about 1/2" on the short dimensions. That's 'fine' as far as I've been planning on a hardwood 'edge' to make attaching to the TS easier, so a little small is fine.

    This is a former countertop scrap which I picked up last year sometime. and is typical formica over particleboard. short of buying a pack of confirmat screws, what would you recommend to connect the hardwood to the particleboard?
    At this point I'm planning on making a rabbet in the hardwood to support the extension on three sides (front back and where it attaches to the cast iron web/wing.) TIA for any/all advice. Now back to getting dusty cleaning.
    -Ned

  2. #2
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    Biscuits?
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  3. #3
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    a moderately fast acting super glue (gorilla has come out with one), or epoxy?
    benedictione omnes bene

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    Biscuits?
    Hmmm, don't have a slot cutter, maybe Mark or Grizz have one I can bring my parts to their shops.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Noren View Post
    a moderately fast acting super glue (gorilla has come out with one), or epoxy?

    That plus the rabbet sound like a workable plan. thanks guys!
    -Ned

  5. #5
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    Just cut the PB down to allow a perimeter frame of hardwood, and glue the hardwood to the particle board. Titebond works just fine. If you're gonna be leaving the router in there full time, you might want a couple additional hardwood braces under the PB, too, to keep it from sagging.

    I used a setup like you're making for about fifteen years before I built my router table. It'll work just fine. You can also make a router fence that fits over/attaches to your tablesaw fence, and use the adjustability of the TS fence for your router table.

    BTW, if you really need a slot cutter, check out MLCS. They're pretty cheap there, and they work just as well as the 'brand name' ones. Free shipping, too.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  6. #6
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    Jim,
    sounds good to me. I probably won't be leaving it in there full time, but some additional bracing won't hurt anything. I'll put pics up once I get it completed. I've got a bed to finish and a desk to work on though.

    I was planning on an aux. fence to hang off of my TS fence, even bought some clamps just for that purpose last week.
    -Ned

  7. #7
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    Ned, when I built the router table for my Buddy, I glued two 3/4" layers of MDF together and then wrapped the edges with 3/4" thick Red oak. I glued the oak on using Titebond Original, and then for both a "Tad" more strength AND an interesting eyecatcher I used some of those, ............... Uh.....(my mind just went blank on what they are called), but anyhow I used the stepped bit and those stepped Dowels that you drive in through the edging and into the MDF, (or particle board in your case). It worked out great. I didn't drive them into the MDF though, I only used one at each end through the front edging and into the end of the side edging wrap. I've got a picture in "My Documents", but since we redid the computer, I CANNOT get the right address for that group of pics so I can pull them up and attach them to a post.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norman Hitt View Post
    Ned, when I built the router table for my Buddy, I glued two 3/4" layers of MDF together and then wrapped the edges with 3/4" thick Red oak. I glued the oak on using Titebond Original, and then for both a "Tad" more strength AND an interesting eyecatcher I used some of those, ............... Uh.....(my mind just went blank on what they are called), but anyhow I used the stepped bit and those stepped Dowels that you drive in through the edging and into the MDF, (or particle board in your case). It worked out great. I didn't drive them into the MDF though, I only used one at each end through the front edging and into the end of the side edging wrap. I've got a picture in "My Documents", but since we redid the computer, I CANNOT get the right address for that group of pics so I can pull them up and attach them to a post.
    Miller dowels? Hmmm. sounds good.
    -Ned

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Bulken View Post
    Miller dowels? Hmmm. sounds good.
    Or if you're on a budget, just plain dowels would do, too. (In addition to the Titebond around the edge.) If I'm driving dowels into a hole that doesn't go all the way through the the piece(s), I take a pair of regular pliers and lightly crimp glue channels along the length of the dowel -- except for the last 1/4" or so before the end that's exposed. I leave the exposed end uncrimped so it's still round when trimmed and sanded flush.

    FWIW, my drill press table is made of two layers of melamine-covered particle board shelving glued together with contact cement, with 1/2" or so wide mahogany edging. I attached the mahogany Norm-style...glued with Titebond and a few 18 gauge brads added "until the glue dries". The edging hasn't budged. I suspect your router table trim isn't going to be subject to a lot of stress, so anything in addition to the Titebond should do the trick. Biscuits, dowels, sheet metal screws (driven carefully so as to avoid stripping the hole) or brads/finishing nails should be OK. (Even the glue alone would probably suffice.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    Or if you're on a budget, just plain dowels would do, too. (In addition to the Titebond around the edge.)
    Darn, there goes my excuse for a(nother) new tool!
    I've got a day or so to think about it, but I'm probably going to just glue and screw it together.
    -Ned

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