Looking for new table saw/ sawstop contractor

Looks really at home in your shop!

You bought the newest Pro model, right? That one has the tool-less removable throat plate and the new DC blade guard, right?

I'd sure like a review of both of those when you get a minute, the throat plate on mine only takes one allen screw to remove, and that allen key lives on my lathe stand about 2 ' from the saw, so that is really no biggie, but the DC blade guard seems like a great idea, the one thing I don't like about the Tablesaw, any tablesaw, is the rooster tail of sawdust you get off the top of the blade. I've thought about building an overhead arm etc, but my saw has to pivot 90 degrees to cut long boards, so a DC hook up on the guard that works would be great.

Nice saw for sure!

Yes I bought the professional cabinet model. The throat plate works really slick. It only takes 2 seconds to remove or install it. I have only used the blade guard for the "initial" test and it seemed to shoot the dust out of the DC port, I didn't have the DC hooked up to it. I never used the blade guard on the old saw because it was so junkie that it was more dangerous to use it than not. It seemed very odd to not be able to see exactly where the blade was, I guess the new uni-saw blade guard would be nice because its "split" so you can see right into the blade. Stu how long does it take for your saw to go through its checks when you turn it on?

Thanks for the info Dave.

My saw takes..................

I dunno, maybe 10 seconds....

I'll be going down later and I'll time it.

When I go to use the saw, I power it up, (flip the power switch on) then I start to set the fence and blade height etc, so by the time I'm ready to make a cut, the SawStop is too

If you set everything up to cut, THEN power up the saw, yeah, you will be standing there watching the lights blink for a few seconds, I know I used to do that, but now I've changed my ways, and I don't hardly even notice how long the check routine takes.

I don't turn the saw on when I enter the shop, because sometimes I'll not use the tablesaw, but once I do turn it on, it stays powered up until I leave the shop, when I shut down everything else as well.

Cheers!

Congrats Dave!! I'd like to see a closer look at the CI saw top you modified for a router top. Not that I'm thinking of doing that, have a separate RT setup, but it is interesting to me, and others might be interested in duplicating it.
Thanks for the pictures. That's a sweet set up for sure! Jim.

good deal dave and that little guy is one big reason for gettun it yu and him have alot time to do things together and yur both gonna need all your digits

Jim O'Dell said:

Congrats Dave!! I'd like to see a closer look at the CI saw top you modified for a router top. Not that I'm thinking of doing that, have a separate RT setup, but it is interesting to me, and others might be interested in duplicating it.
Thanks for the pictures. That's a sweet set up for sure! Jim.

Click to expand...

I am in the process of modifying the CI top, in the old TS I had a plexiglass plate that was mounted in the MDF extension table and I liked that setup up except for how the plexi flexed and didn't line up right. I found an old sears CI top on ebay and got it for 99 cents. I have an old rockwell table saw body, the kind that raises and lowers the table rather than the blade to change the height, and I am going to modify that into a router lift and mount that to the CI top. I will post pics when its done, Right now I am waiting for the router to get back from being fixed under warranty.

I got the blade guard DC hooked up and it works well. I used 1.5" pvc and ran it straight up to the ceiling and over and down to the 6" main DC duct. I have the PVC set up so when I want to take off the blade guard I just pull the PVC off the blade guard and the upright piece swings up out of the way. I am thinking about getting a "good" blade. I would like to get the Freud premier fusion but I don't know if I'm ready to whip out that much for a blade. On my previous saw I had a Freud Advanti that I got from lowes and it gave me really nice cuts but it was a thin kerf and I am looking for a.... non thin kerf blade. I was thinking in the $40 -$50 range. I see homedepot has a bunch of different Freud Diablos in that range. I am looking for an all purpose blade. Any thoughts.