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Thread: Miter finder

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    36

    Miter finder

    Putting some new baseboard in the house and of course not all corners are 90 degrees. Wondering what the best miter finder is. Starret, or what others would you suggest. Math isn't a strong suit so basic is better.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin Cranford View Post
    Putting some new baseboard in the house and of course not all corners are 90 degrees. Wondering what the best miter finder is. Starret, or what others would you suggest. Math isn't a strong suit so basic is better.
    Woodcraft sells these for 20 bucks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails protractor.jpg  
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
    The Trend angle fix ( I think ) are supposed to be simple. You put it in the corner and it has a vertical aluminium piece that moves to the mitre location.You then set it on your mitre saw and aling the blade. http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11711

    The starrett is similar but it give you the angle and you set it yourself.

    I've found the plastic thing too flimsy to be very usefull and they can be hard to read
    パトリック
    daiku woodworking
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    neoshed

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Vernon, WI
    Posts
    230
    Dustin if you already own a speed square you could buy a cheap t bevel for about $5. Fit it to a corner, lock it in, draw it on a piece of scrap, and then measure the difference from 90 degrees with your speed square. Or all you need is a foot or two of scrap anything. Just cut a 45 on 2 pieces of scrap each a foot long or so and adjust from there if you need to. Depending on what kind of base you get, you can hide a lot just by erring on the side of caution and cutting a strong 45... like a 45.5-46. That way the front will meet and the back might have a tiny fraction of a hair open but you will not see it. Of course you might be able to see it on the top of the joint, but depepnding on what kind of base you use, say colonial style for example, the top of the profile on that style is very thin and that "open" part of the joint will not even be noticed.

    Or you could just stick to the original plan and test cut each corner or measure it with one of the tools shown Just showing some other options Let us know what ya go with!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
    Posts
    8,529
    Your other option is to use one of these.
    This one was may dads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails square.jpg  
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    36
    Thanks for the input guys. I will look around, but as I have found so far you can't get anything in this town without the ole "we don't have it, but can order it".

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