Rob Keeble
Member
- Messages
- 12,633
- Location
- GTA Ontario Canada
Okay dont say i did not warn you if you end up like me.
So for those of you that read my post the jointer finaly arrived just before my trip to Michigan. When i saw Larrys wide belt sander i thought gee why did I not bring my bench top down to his place and it would have been flat.
But after taking my jointer out of the packaging and merely sharpening the blade boy am i glad i did not.
In less than 1 hour i now have a flat workbench and i have to tell you working with sharp planes is highly addictive. I had to conciously decide to stop or there would be nothing left of my bench top.
Pictures will follow in my workbench thread when i get out to the shop again.
But i just had to share the experience of planing that top here. I know i paid a little on the high side for my jointer especially when i include the shipping but man i am delighted with its performance and its still less than half of what i would have paid for new one at LV or having my top sanded by some pro shop.
Be warned picking up hand planes has no end.
Now i need someone to give me some advice. Bill will you chime in here please.
I took the smoothing plane out for a whirl after using the jointer. Trying to get the extra thin curlies you mentioned by closing up the throat. I did this by moving the frog ever so slightly but seem to be having issues now with getting any shavings at all. Have been experimenting with no success. What i am getting is shavings that are akin to having used a rasp.
One other thing, any tips anyone has for getting your tool rest properly square to the wheel of the grinder. I get a good grind but always seem to be out of square by the time i fit the blade to the plane. Leaves an uneven space on the gap that the "chip breaker" has between the edge of the blade and the front of the chipbreaker.
Also any tips on getting the overlap right when jointing. I initially did not pay attention to this i was enjoying myself too much just making curlys and seeing the flatness occurr. Then noticed i had streeks across the bench that need cleaning up.
Hey Larry it was quiet the workout but oh so enjoyable i challenge all the spinny guys to try out a plane. Maybe more of them would become flatwork guys then.
Another thing is how to decide when to stop. What i am realizing is its one thing to read and get a understanding of the art, its another thing to put it into practice. Guess there is no substitute to experimentation and on the job practice.
By the way for anyone wanting to learn to sharpen and really understand whats going on, get hold of this book, it covers everything you can sharpen from A to Z.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sharpening-Leonard-Lee/dp/1561581259
Thanks for reading and sharing in my new adventure any tips you have would be appreciated.
So for those of you that read my post the jointer finaly arrived just before my trip to Michigan. When i saw Larrys wide belt sander i thought gee why did I not bring my bench top down to his place and it would have been flat.
But after taking my jointer out of the packaging and merely sharpening the blade boy am i glad i did not.
In less than 1 hour i now have a flat workbench and i have to tell you working with sharp planes is highly addictive. I had to conciously decide to stop or there would be nothing left of my bench top.
Pictures will follow in my workbench thread when i get out to the shop again.
But i just had to share the experience of planing that top here. I know i paid a little on the high side for my jointer especially when i include the shipping but man i am delighted with its performance and its still less than half of what i would have paid for new one at LV or having my top sanded by some pro shop.
Be warned picking up hand planes has no end.
Now i need someone to give me some advice. Bill will you chime in here please.
I took the smoothing plane out for a whirl after using the jointer. Trying to get the extra thin curlies you mentioned by closing up the throat. I did this by moving the frog ever so slightly but seem to be having issues now with getting any shavings at all. Have been experimenting with no success. What i am getting is shavings that are akin to having used a rasp.
One other thing, any tips anyone has for getting your tool rest properly square to the wheel of the grinder. I get a good grind but always seem to be out of square by the time i fit the blade to the plane. Leaves an uneven space on the gap that the "chip breaker" has between the edge of the blade and the front of the chipbreaker.
Also any tips on getting the overlap right when jointing. I initially did not pay attention to this i was enjoying myself too much just making curlys and seeing the flatness occurr. Then noticed i had streeks across the bench that need cleaning up.
Hey Larry it was quiet the workout but oh so enjoyable i challenge all the spinny guys to try out a plane. Maybe more of them would become flatwork guys then.
Another thing is how to decide when to stop. What i am realizing is its one thing to read and get a understanding of the art, its another thing to put it into practice. Guess there is no substitute to experimentation and on the job practice.
By the way for anyone wanting to learn to sharpen and really understand whats going on, get hold of this book, it covers everything you can sharpen from A to Z.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sharpening-Leonard-Lee/dp/1561581259
Thanks for reading and sharing in my new adventure any tips you have would be appreciated.