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Thread: BLO, Tung oil, Danish Oil question.

  1. #1
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    BLO, Tung oil, Danish Oil question.

    can anyone give me a short description about the type of finish each one gives and when use on or the other or it is only a matter of preference?

    Thanks
    Best regards,
    Toni

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________
    web site:http://www.toniciuraneta.com
    I also dream of a shop with north light where my hands can be busy, my soul rest and my mind wander...

  2. #2
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    Toni,

    I haven't used "real" tung oil but, based on it's qualities, I get similar results using BLO and Naphtha in a 1/1 ratio. If I want a "Danish oil", I make it using BLO/Naphtha/Polyurethane in about a 1/1/1 ratio. Most of the products on the market with "Tung" in the name contain NO tung oil. While one can buy real tung oil, it's quite costly and I choose to use other combinations to accomplish the same result.

    A great resource for definitions of different finishes is this page on Jeff Jewitt's website.

    I've used the BLO/Naphtha combo on most furniture I've done, followed by shellac as a sealer/barrier coat. Whether I've topcoated with polyurethane, lacquer, WB lacquer or more shellac, it's hard to tell the difference visually.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  3. #3
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    Like Bill said real tung oil is expensive (I guess it take a lot of tonques to get enough to fill up a can...) and many of the products out there that says "Tung Oil Finish" actually don't have any tung oil in them.
    I use BLO mixed with mineral spirits 1/1 so it will dry quicker. It realy pops the grain. my favorite finish is wipe on poly.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  4. #4
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    Pure tung oil rubs easily into the wood. For gunstocks, where I have used it, rubbing with the bare hand produces the best results because of the heat build up. It does have a darkening effect. It is very durable and moisture resistant. Generally low gloss but I have never attempted to achieve a glossy finish since that was not the effect I wanted. In fact, I went over my work with OOOO steel wood to degloss.
    I'll agree with others, read labels carefully. The use of the term 'tung oil' has been corrupted. Some are only partially tung, others may not have any tung in them.
    But pure tung is good stuff, IMHO.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  5. #5
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    BLO, Danish Oil, Tung Oil

    Hello Fellow Woodworkers,

    BLO-Tung oil-Danish Oil. All are called "penetrating oil". They are applied to bare wood, allowed to penetrate, then all surface oil is wiped off. This process is repeated as often as required. A penetrating oil finish is easy to repair-just add more oil, and rub it off with a rag.
    Do Not Put these Oily Rags In a Pile. They can absolutely catch on fire.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    BLO, (boiled linseed oil); is not really boiled at all, it is just linseed oil with metalic driers added which assist the oxidation process (drying).
    BLO tends to stay fairly soft even after it is dry. It is only nominally resistant to moisture.
    In the course of time, the finish will become increasingly dark (often very dark).

    Tung Oil, is oil extracted from the fruit of the china nut tree.
    In it's pure form, it is fairly colorless, and does not darken much over time.
    Unfortunately, in it's unadulterated pure form, tung oil is a choice food for mold.

    Danish Oil is a mix of solvents, oils, resins, driers, and whatever the manufacturer decides to put in it.

    I recommend a tung oil based product (but not a pure oil).
    It should be quite impervious to water staining.

    I have seen Pure Tung Oil used on exterior wooden doors.
    The cedar was fluffy with black mold after the first few rains.
    Not a memory soon forgot.


    -JL
    Last edited by james lintott; 10-08-2009 at 01:42 AM. Reason: I care

  6. #6
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    Penetrating Oil / Sam Maloof's Recipe

    This is a great recipe for a penetrating oil. It has good build, so doesn't require so many coats.

    Maloof's Recipe:

    -1/3 turpentine
    -1/3 linseed oil
    -1/3 varnish

    What you get is a quality dainish oil type product.

  7. #7
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    Oh Yeah, there's more.

    using a peice of wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub in the oil briskly
    -Try 220 grit.

    Well, what you get is a slurry of the oil+sanding dust.
    It really packs those pores quick.

    -JL

  8. #8
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    100 % tong oil finish will get gloss the more coats as with BLO

    Here are some pic's,

    You tell me which is the

    1 Lacquer finish [satin]
    2 100% tong oil finish
    3 1/1 tong oil thinner
    4 french polish
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1526.JPG   CIMG0042.JPG   IMGA0410.JPG   IMG_0996.JPG   105_0567.JPG  


  9. #9
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    Hey! How did you get aholt of my rifle to take a picture of it?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bicentennial rifle.jpg  
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  10. #10
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    I use the Maloof in a can tung/Boiled linseed/poly mix from Rockler, see my recent shots of the kitchen island for how much it pops the grain on wood.
    -Ned

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