Last edited by Matt Dunlap; 03-31-2008 at 05:10 PM.
If you are saying, and showing in pics, that your blade is above the table at the fence, but in the cutting "groove" when pulled fully out, your table is not level (parallel) to the arbor.
Pushing, rather than pulling, would not be good.... Your blade could easily hook the board and lift it up, up and away......
You need to adjust the table.
Last edited by Greg Cook; 01-15-2007 at 05:32 PM.
It's been 20+ years since I sold my C'man saw, and it was an older model, however I suspect Sears and whoever made their saws changed the table and operation based on liability. Pushing is the safer mode of operation with a RAS, since the blade cannot grab the work when being pushed as it could when pulling (climb cut) and endanger the operator. The older saws, set up for pulling operations, had an additional piece of table stock, about 2-4" wide that moved the fence outboard and allowed stock to be set on the fence and climb cut. For safety sake, stay with what you have.
Since there is a difference of opinion here, for your safety's sake, I would wait a bit and get the opinion of more members.
Personally, I would want the blade to clear the fence whether I was pushing or pulling! Both of the Craftsman RAS I have owned pulled to cut. The current unit is 12 to 15 years old and was my dad's. The one I bought (that I killed cutting concrete blocks ) was purchased new in '82. I've never seen one that you push, not to say it doesn't exist. Jim.
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Most radial arm saws that I have ever been associated with come with the ability to move the fence forward and backward to accomodate different situations. Usually the fence is trapped between some narrower table inserts that can be move to increase the total width of cut to assist in performing some unusual operations. Usually the fence positions were for either 1 or 2 inch lumber.
It looks like you Dad may have set the saw up that way to increase the total width of the cut but the fence needs to be moved back to it's original position to accomodate either 1" lumber or 2" depending on what you do the most. The saw definately needs to be set up to cut on the pull stroke rather than the push. It's dangerous set up the way it is.
If the original table is still on the saw underneath the present table it will give you an idea of what you need to have in place. You might contact Sears for specification on the correct size of table also.
I once heard that cats and women will do darn well what they please and that men and dogs would do well to accept it and just go on.
This thread has me real confused.
To cut by pushing with a radial arm saw, doesn't that mean the blade and motor must be pulled out, then the wood slid behind it, then the cut made?
Sounds akward and dangerous to me. But wadda I know?
I watched my father use his DeWalt for a lifetime by pulling out to cut.
Seems to me (again, I'm the 'wadda I know' guy) that the teeth facing and cutting down, would cut either by pulling or pushing.
Repeat: Color me confused.
Here's my saw...looks just like yours. I make sure the guard (updated) is behind the fence for safety sake, and convenience, before starting. I have the riving knives, and anti-kickback pawls up (I would only use for ripping, or a very wide board).
After adjusting the blade to the proper height for the cut I want, turn on the saw, lift the blade guard up so that it is just above the fence and pull to make the cut. When finished, I make sure the board is away from the cut line, return the saw to the back, drop the blade guard and turn off the saw.
I would get the model of my saw, go to OWWM or search the Internet, and read the owner's manual. That should tell you how you should be operating the saw.
That's just what I would do. It's bound to be more accurate than any of us speculating about the model of saw you have.