RAS Question

Matt,

If you are saying, and showing in pics, that your blade is above the table at the fence, but in the cutting "groove" when pulled fully out, your table is not level (parallel) to the arbor.

Pushing, rather than pulling, would not be good.... Your blade could easily hook the board and lift it up, up and away......

You need to adjust the table.
 
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Matt,

It's been 20+ years since I sold my C'man saw, and it was an older model, however I suspect Sears and whoever made their saws changed the table and operation based on liability. Pushing is the safer mode of operation with a RAS, since the blade cannot grab the work when being pushed as it could when pulling (climb cut) and endanger the operator. The older saws, set up for pulling operations, had an additional piece of table stock, about 2-4" wide that moved the fence outboard and allowed stock to be set on the fence and climb cut. For safety sake, stay with what you have.
 
Personally, I would want the blade to clear the fence whether I was pushing or pulling! Both of the Craftsman RAS I have owned pulled to cut. The current unit is 12 to 15 years old and was my dad's. The one I bought (that I killed cutting concrete blocks :eek: :doh: ) was purchased new in '82. I've never seen one that you push, not to say it doesn't exist. Jim.
 
Most radial arm saws that I have ever been associated with come with the ability to move the fence forward and backward to accomodate different situations. Usually the fence is trapped between some narrower table inserts that can be move to increase the total width of cut to assist in performing some unusual operations. Usually the fence positions were for either 1 or 2 inch lumber.

It looks like you Dad may have set the saw up that way to increase the total width of the cut but the fence needs to be moved back to it's original position to accomodate either 1" lumber or 2" depending on what you do the most. The saw definately needs to be set up to cut on the pull stroke rather than the push. It's dangerous set up the way it is.

If the original table is still on the saw underneath the present table it will give you an idea of what you need to have in place. You might contact Sears for specification on the correct size of table also.
 
This thread has me real confused.
To cut by pushing with a radial arm saw, doesn't that mean the blade and motor must be pulled out, then the wood slid behind it, then the cut made?
Sounds akward and dangerous to me. But wadda I know?
I watched my father use his DeWalt for a lifetime by pulling out to cut.
Seems to me (again, I'm the 'wadda I know' guy) that the teeth facing and cutting down, would cut either by pulling or pushing.
Repeat: Color me confused. :huh:
 
Matt,

Here's my saw...looks just like yours. I make sure the guard (updated) is behind the fence for safety sake, and convenience, before starting. I have the riving knives, and anti-kickback pawls up (I would only use for ripping, or a very wide board).

After adjusting the blade to the proper height for the cut I want, turn on the saw, lift the blade guard up so that it is just above the fence and pull to make the cut. When finished, I make sure the board is away from the cut line, return the saw to the back, drop the blade guard and turn off the saw.



 
I would get the model of my saw, go to OWWM or search the Internet, and read the owner's manual. That should tell you how you should be operating the saw.

That's just what I would do. It's bound to be more accurate than any of us speculating about the model of saw you have.
 
I would guess that your table was changed at some point. Perhaps to suit a special project or personal preference. I believe that RAS are intended to be pulled through the work piece. I would suggest changing your table to allow more space behind the fence (make the piece behind the fence wider). This will reduce the size of work piece that can be cut.

Radial_arm_saw_osha.jpg
 
Jeff is right. Looking closer at your first pic, compare your fence and spacing with the one on mine (same model). My table and fence was included in the blade guard upgrade kit. You need to change the table.

Sent you a PM.
 
RAS's are pull, NOT push. The fence should always be out far enough that the blade doesn't touch the work piece until the blade is pulled thru' the fence. You should reposition your fence.
If you can't find an owner/operator manual let me know and I'll try to find mine and scan the relevant portions for you. I hope I can find it. I put it away 20 years ago.

cheers
 
On a 10" RAS, the fence will need to be approx. 4" from the center of the blade to clear a 1-1/2" work piece.

001.jpg


I prefer to position my fence so the entire blade is behind the fence when the saw is pushed all the way back.
 
Matt's saw has the somewhat "cow catcher" blade guard that is meant to be dropped down on the table when the saw is pushed all the way back. The fence has to be far enough forward to allow the guard to go all the way down. The front of the guard is such that if the saw is turned on, and the blade contacts the table top, the saw will try to move out but the "catcher" will hit the fence and stop the forward movement.
 
Jim Hager has it right rebuild your table so that the fence is out in front of your blade & blade guard.

Out on commercial jobs where RAS's were used you would have been laughed off the job if you had pulled the saw out & pushed it back through the material not to mention it makes using the saw much more dangerous. If the blade should catch the front of the material & pick it up off the table well I wouldn't want to be anywhere close by. If you have the owners manual get it out & read it, it may help I have my Dad's 12" RAS & the manual explains how to set the saw up & safely use it. Also if you don't have a negative hook toothed blade get one it makes using the saw a bit more pleasant.
 
Matt said, "Now I'm really confused :huh: :huh: :huh: ?"
Must be a first in my lifetime. I'm not alone. :laugh2:
BTW, to others, seriously, thanks for clarifying. That could be a major safety issue for those who don't know.
 
Great, I'm glad you found someone to explain it to you in person. You were gonna get hurt using it the way you have been plus the saw is much more likely to produce the kind of results you are after using it the right way. You can set it up for lots more kinds of operations now and it'll be much more of an asset to your shop.
 
Check your blade

Matt,
It also looks like the blade you are using is a positive hook blade... maybe like 20 degrees?? The hook is how much the cutter angles from a line drawn to the center.

For a table saw this would be fine, but many RAS enthusiasts would suggest getting one with a less aggressive hook, preferably a negative hook for safety; it would be less likely to try to pull through the cut. My blade has a -5 degree hook and I have never had a problem with it trying to climb.
 
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