Does this make sense?

Bill Lantry

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Hey, folks,

Back at it, and I need to make some frame and panel doors using rail and stile bits. Now, I *do* have set up blocks for the bits, and they get me "fairly" close, but as we've learned to our pain, "fairly" ain't gonna cut it when Doorlink's involved! ;)

So, I thought of getting one of these for my router lift: http://www.wixey.com/remote/index.html

easy-install01.jpg


That way, when I get a good set up, I could just jot down the setting, to the thousandth of an inch (close enough, even for Doorlink!) and just return to the setting anytime I need to.

But then I thought to myself "Hmmm... we're told never to bottom out a bit in a router collet." Why that is, I have no idea, but I always bottom out the bit, pull it up a little, and tighten. The problem is that "pull it up a little" would destroy any possibility of repeatable accuracy! I'd have to zero out the thing every time I changed bits, and previous settings would be useless! :eek:

Any thoughts on this subject?

Thanks,

Bill
 
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bill drop a rubber o ring in the bottom of your collet,to maintain the space and the unformity you are looking for the fit on a rail and stile bit set is generally right on yu just need to set one up first then match it with the next bit..do the cope cuts first then the stiles and the sides of the rail. takes the tear out away better the differnce yu may get can be sanded smooth elimnating the doorlink problem:)
 
I agree with what Don said about set up. I use one of these and get very repeatable results.
 

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That looks like a Harbor freight DRO and a home made holder for it. Looks good and functional.

Plans for it were in one of the magazines a couple years ago. You're spot-on in your observation, btw. The DRO's go for about six bucks (on sale) at HF.

I've made two of them - one for Tablesaw, and one for router table - using Baltic Birch. They work very well.
 
Bill,

Although I think your idea will probably work and also agree with the poster who suggested dropping an "o" ring in the bottom to avoid the issue related to bottoming out. However, at the risk of being a party pooper, I feel compelled to point out that you can with good repeatability accomplish the same thing by simply making a pattern to use for future set up. At least this has worked for me for many years.
 
Bill,

Although I think your idea will probably work and also agree with the poster who suggested dropping an "o" ring in the bottom to avoid the issue related to bottoming out. However, at the risk of being a party pooper, I feel compelled to point out that you can with good repeatability accomplish the same thing by simply making a pattern to use for future set up. At least this has worked for me for many years.

This is also how I do it for cope and stick.
 
I'll only add, remember we're working with wood. Them thousandths of an inch are great for calibrating and adjusting machines, but the wood is gonna move more than a couple thousandths over night.

Rail and stile bits are no where as particular about exacting settings as are some others.
 
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