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Thread: Project Wrap Up Day & More Hollowing Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Palm Springs, Ca
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    Project Wrap Up Day & More Hollowing Questions

    I had the day free today and got to spend all day in the garage without interuption. So i completed several projects that have been sitting around. I know how everyone likes pictures so i have them and will explain what i did or what i learned along the way. I do alot of experimenting
    See Pictures Below:

    1). This is a root base from a tree - leveled on top and lightly darkened with a butane torch - 2 laquer sealer coats - 5 coats of Deft laquer and is now drying and complete - ready for glass table top or whatever - - - Done

    2). Redwood Burl Slab - Long project - Leveled on bottom with 80grit beltsander and large T square. There were only 2 shops here in the desert where i live that had a drum sander but declined to run it thru for me without charging alot (both stated they would have to make small runs and it would take along time to sand it down totally level. Making larger runs could create the drums to dig in hard into the wood and they didnt want to risk it). Once the bottom was roughed out level I flipped it over and started doing the same on what would be the top. I used the belt sander to 120 then changed to orbital sander and went thru the grits to 320.
    The finish went like this - 2 coats of laquer sealer and knocked down each time with 0000. I did not use oil as it would have darken it to much. After the two sealer coats i put on 6 coats of semi-gloss laquer and used 0000 between coats except the last coat. The pictures shows it sitting in a room where it will dry for the next couple weeks.
    Question - I have some light spots and areas that although i have covered when i sprayed they dont look it. Should i wait awhile and apply more laquer ? or wait and do some type of wax buffing ? any ideas on finishing from this point ??

    3 & 4). Dish that i turned and just never got around to finishing - Antique oil applied x 2 coats - then 3 coats of semi-gloss laquer and now drying. May go 4 coats to fill in the grain more but i think ill leave it with just the semi-gloss and do nothing else to it............opinions?

    5). Neighbor gave me this bowl to try to sand and refinish - i glued a block best i could to the center of it on the backside and will attempt to mount it on the lathe to sand. Best idea i could come up with to remount - anybody think of any other way ??

    6). Is a green wood hollow form that i sanded to 220 and left it out on accident (to hot for it in the garage) and in the morning it had 4 small cracks around the mouth of the vessel. CA glue and clamp - but the cracks still showed so i thought i would use it to experiment with and try something new. I used CA for the finish and then used 0000 steel wool and buffed with tripoli/WD/Carnuba.
    Not such a good idea it has white areas here and there and i may have been better off (and may still) just have put laquer spray over it and call it done or buff it after that...............well I learned anyway

    7&8). Large hollow form 8 3/4 " wide and 8 1/4 Deep - This has been my largest vessel i have tried to turn since buying the Monster hollowing rig. Sanded thru 220 and 1 coat of BLO and now sitting inside.
    Questions :
    I find when I am deep in the vessel hollowing at the very center at the bottom it seems nearly impossible to cut (dead center eye)-I get alot of jerking and jumping with the tooling - any suggestions ?? I finally just used my Ci1 and cut it fast and clean.
    When i am hollowing deep like in this vessel i get alot of hard jumping. Example - say im in 4" or more and including the tool rest im easily in at a depth of probably 5" and going deeper still this is when it starts and gets worse the deeper i go. Any suggestions ????? I do not want to end up bending another tool ...............


    Alright well thanks for all your comments...........Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Root Base.jpg   Burl Finish.jpg   Dish-1.jpg   Dish-2.jpg   Refinish Bowl.jpg  

    Hollow-3.jpg   Hollow-7.jpg   Hollow-1.jpg  
    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 10-19-2009 at 03:23 AM.
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
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    30,014
    Good-looking work, Dan.

    On the deep hollowing/jumping questions...I find that sometimes moving the base of the articulated arm a few inches in one direction or the other can help. Also, I tend to rest my right forearm on the rig to help dampen some of the vibrations. Lastly, I try to take real light cuts when I'm getting deep. For getting the very center smoothed out, I often use a flashlight to see inside the vessel, then carefully adjust my tool rest up or down a hair to get the cutting edge right on the centerline of the piece. It often takes a few tries to get it right on the money. And then there are times where, like you, I grab a Ci1 or a very heavy bullnose scraper and clean the bottom up that way.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    4,834
    Nice work Dan. I find that if I take the big straight hollowing unit with the bigger cutter in it with a handle on it that is works better. You have to take light cuts. I watched David Ellsworth do it. What happens is you get a knob square in the center of the bottom. I find it near impossible to get rid of that knob with the arm unit. You need to put your cutter below it and then with a upward motion, then move the cutter to your left. It takes some time to get it down but does work. It may take several strokes like this to get rid of it. It took me a while but I finally got it. If the opening is big enough I do like Vaughn does with a round nose scraper and take it off. Randy sent me a handle that all my pieces from the arm unit fit.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
    Posts
    1,169

    Another Question

    Yep....... the index cutter i got from Randy will fit all the cutting bits i got with the rig. I have put the large cutting tip into it and really roughed out quickly some turnings i was working on. Now, I either use it or the Ci1 for roughing because its easy and quick - I like rounding down quick because then i get to the real fun of turning which is to start shaping. Lately, I been only turning vessels because of acquiring the new toy.....
    In hollowing - I spoke with Randy and he suggested the same thing which is to move the unit around and it will help in cutting and less jumping. As for the knob you can get sometime in dead center ill try what you suggested Bernie. However, I do find that by sticking my Ci1 in a 21-22" handle i got from Thompson that i can clean up very quickly and I have a large bowl scrapper that will also clean up the knob easily.....then I use the rig to sweep a gentle cut to round out on the bottom. Still Ill try your suggestion

    Vaughn - Spoke with Randy today about the cutter problem i had not fitting into the adjustable holder - problem solved with a wet stone and about 5min of time - then took your advice and notched it snapped it into two cutter which is great now i can quickly change to another without stopping and grinding - thanks....

    Question - I made one the other day with about a 1" opening - Other than for practicing why bother with alot of detail clean up ?
    What i think is........ to clean up good as far as i can stick my finger in and feel the side walls and leave it at that. You can not see well down into it and certainly can not feel it any further down........just wondering
    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 10-20-2009 at 03:31 AM.
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mosley View Post
    ...Question - I made one the other day with about a 1" opening - Other than for practicing why bother with alot of detail clean up ? What i think is........ to clean up good as far as i can stick my finger in and feel the side walls and leave it at that. You can not see well down into it and certainly can not feel it any further down........just wondering
    Ask ten turners and you'll probably get a dozen answers, but personally, I try as much as possible to get rid of any visible tool marks inside, and sand as much as I can see and reach. I have a 1" sanding pad and extension that'll go on a drill. I use that for the bottoms when I can. I'll also use a piece of sandpaper folded over a sponge, held with a long pair of hemostats to reach the lower, visible parts of the inside. Then I sand inside the lip as far as I can reach with a finger.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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