Power sanding pads

I bought a bunch from Vince at the AAW event in Richmond. I had read good things about his product on various forums and was running through some really poorly made wave edge discs from Woodcraft (the paper kept coming off the backing). The ones I bought from Vince are blue and have a mylar backing but no wavy edge. They work great and they last twice as long as the woodcraft wavy discs. What size you get depends on what you are turning and your skill level. Small bowls dictate small discs and large bowls...well, large discs :) He had starter sets in both 3" and 2" at the show. I haven't checked his web site lately, but maybe get a starter set in both sizes?? I usually start at 120 or 150 grit and go to 320. For those times when my technique fails, I keep some 60 and 80 grit on hand--but not as much as the 120, which I use the most of. Highly recommended!!
 
Ted, that is pretty much what I have read about them. Do you use a full size drill? I'm thinking of trying to find one of those close quarter 3/8 drills. I've read that the one from Harbour Frieght is not bad.

Tom
 
Tom, I use the heavy duty pads from Packard, but I've also read a lot of good things about Vince's products.

I use the Harbor Freight close quarter drill, but I wouldn't recommend getting one if you don't live close to a Harbor Freight store, just in case you get a bad one and need to exchange it. When I bought mine a couple years ago, I bought two, and sent one of them to Stu in Tokyo. As it turned out, Stu's fell apart within a month or two, but mine is still going strong after a lot of hours of use. The shipping costs for Stu to return his were too prohibitive, but had mine died, I could have exchanged it easily.
 
Im going to look into his site to and try some of his sanding discs......

I to have bought some from woodcraft and had the same issues of the backing comming off even before i touched it to the wood. Because i bought several different grits and most had the same problem i solved it by putting a drop of CA glue on it and then was able to use them.

Currently i use a cheap electric sander but would like to go over to the pneumatic and I know alot of people on here have bought Harbor Frieghts and im pretty sure they have been satisfied with it. I also use a sturdy 3" pad to attach to and not the cheap foamy ones because they tear easy and get messed up fast......the sturdy one i bought out of woodturners catalog and has lasted me for a very long time now with no problems and still looks new...cost more but saves in the long run from the cheap ones.....just an opinion
 
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Dan, the HF drill I'm talking about is electric, not pneumatic. My pneumatic sander is a random orbital job from Grex. HF makes a pneumatic sander, but I don't think it's random orbital, just orbital, like the drill.
 
Vaughn - which one do you use the most on your turning then - the grex?

It really depends on the piece. The drill is more aggressive and removes more material faster, but the Grex leaves fewer visible scratches. The drill is quieter and doesn't cause the compressor to run (less energy used, too), but the Grex is easier on my messed up hands and wrists. I'd say I use both pretty much the same amount, and I also sand by hand a fair amount, as well as use an electric 3" ROS from Metabo. I've even used my 5" Ryobi ROS on bigger things. Like I said, it really depends on the piece.
 
Tom,
I tried a hook and loop system for a while on my power sander... I have a side sander with reversible directions that I got through Amazon for less than the HF sander... it's an odd brand, but has served well over the summer....

Back to the Hook and Loop system, I found that I threw the pads off the holder whenever I hit the edge of the bowls or if I wasn't careful... ruined the pads... they even twisted the foam rubber off a couple of them.

I went to the Powerlock Sanding System from CSUSA... also sold by Packard and likely others.... just that's where I got mine. I like positive click of locking the disc in place and don't lose as many pads that way. I've had the H&L's fly off and evaporate into thin air.... still looking for a couple.

I like the powerlock's because they hold in both forward and reverse sanding. The grits only run through 320, but by then I'm in pretty good shape anyway.
 
Tom,
I have the both the HF and Milwaukee? low angle drills. I keep a 2" pad on one and a 3" on the other. The Harbor Frieght drill has been trucking along for over two years now and I will buy another when it goes...it was $19 something on sale one day. The Milwaukee is five years old and the bearings are starting to make a lot of noise. I tried the powerlock system when I first started, but the darn discs kept flying off when I reversed the drill. I figured it was operator error and went with the simpler Velcro pad systems. The key to using them is not to press too hard, because if you really bear down the heat build up destroys the foam pads and even the Velcro fibers.
 
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Tom,
I tried the powerlock system when I first started, but the darn discs kept flying off when I reversed the drill. I figured it was operator error and went with the simpler Velcro pad systems. The key to using them is not to press too hard, because if you really bear down the heat build up destroys the foam pads and even the Velcro fibers.

That may have been my problem... I think I tended to press too much but because of the soft pads it seemed like I needed to.... anyway after ruining over 1/2 dozen pads, I switch to the powerlock and just make sure I hear the click when it locks in place...ever so often I'll get a pad that comes off, but it much rarer than with the hook and loop.... I suppose it a matter of "to each his own?"
 
That may have been my problem... I think I tended to press too much but because of the soft pads it seemed like I needed to...

Also, the softer pads are much quicker to disintegrate. That's why I like the heavier duty ones in the Packard selection. My 2" pad is still going strong after over 2 years. And Ted's right about pressing too hard. It'll melt the Velcro. So will too much speed, either on the lathe or with the drill.
 
I to have gone thru a few of the foam backed pads and 8mo ago bought a heavier backed thick stronger pad - I think from CS - anyway it still in good shape and working well - I use the 3" pads - I guess you get what you pay for on this one - The pad cost me alot more but has paid for itself over and over.........Dan
PS Vaughn.....thanks for the info on the electric drill - Pneumatic - I currrently only use a electric drill with forward and reverse and in my final sanding I do by hand anyway (preference)........thanks for the input though
 
I wanted to update my thread by stating that I ordered a starter kit from Vince and got it yesterday. Last night I power sanded my bowl and what a difference that made. I was able to complete the sanding in about 10 minutes. I really like the sanding system I got from Vince. Price is right and he is an upstanding guy to deal with. I went to Harbor Freight today and picked up the 3/8" close quarter drill. So I'm good to go now. I think I have all the pieces to the puzzle now to start turning out more bowls. My first walnut bowl is currently drying the first coat of Tung Oil finish. A little buffing and on to the next project.

Thanks,
Tom
 
Vaughn,
You got my attention with the Metabo. Do you use it as a final finishing tool or can you hog off the rough spots with it? The price seem's right if it does the job..can you recommend it?
 
Vaughn,
You got my attention with the Metabo. Do you use it as a final finishing tool or can you hog off the rough spots with it? The price seem's right if it does the job..can you recommend it?

Ted, I've tended to use it only on bigger pieces because if its size. It also won't reach the bottom of a steep bowl, due to the case geometry, so I mostly use it on the outside of pieces or flatter stuff like shallow bowls and platters. It will indeed hog off some wood with an 80 grit disk at full speed, but it'll also do nice finish sanding as well. I use mine with a 'wave' firm sanding pad and the 3" gold wave disks from 80 to 400 grit, and I've been happy with the results. If you use 3" perforated disks without a backing pad, you can hook up your shop vac for pretty decent dust collection. especially on flatwork. I'd say my only complaint is the size (diameter) of the case body that serves as the 'handle' when using it. It's just bulky enough that it's uncomfortable for me to grip and maneuver for long periods of time. (I also have some grip issues with my hands, so that may not be a problem for you.)

I see it as kind of a 'luxury' tool. There's nothing it does that I can't do with another tool, but for some tasks, it does better than anything else I have.
 
"I see it as kind of a 'luxury' tool. There's nothing it does that I can't do with another tool, but for some tasks, it does better than anything else I have."

Vaughn, Thanks...It looks like it's worth having.
 
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