Shawl Pin

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687
Location
Harvey, Michigan
Had a request from my wife, Colleen - who is an avid knitter - to turn a shawl pin. This is what I came up with and it is based loosely on a design of an old Viking cloak pin.

Cherry, 3 1/2" outside diameter, 1 3/4" inside diameter x a tapered 5/16 thick. The pin portion - also Cherry - is 6 1/2" long x 1/8" diameter shaft. Sanded to 400 grit and will be finished with multiple coats of wipe on gloss poly - only one coat on at time of photo.

Shawl Pin v1.JPG Shawl Pin v2.JPG

Wife loves it!

As always - your opinions, comments and critiques are welcomed!

Thanks for looking! :wave:
 
I have not seen one of those before, it looks great. Think I will try something like that for some Christmas presents. I hope my pin comes out half as nice as that one.
 
That's very cool, Steve. I'll bet Colleen loves it, and you should probably expect to make some more once her friends see it. I'm still trying to figure out how you held the ring. :huh: :)
 
How to turn Shawl Ring

Thanks everyone! Doesn't take much to turn - except for me the spindle portion took a while as I am not used to spindles!

Vaughn - hope this clears up what I did:

I had a block of dry Cherry that was approximately 4” square x 2” thick and used a forstner bit to drill a 1 ¼” hole about 3/8” deep for the #1 jaws of my Talon chuck to expand into.

Turned the outside of the ring and finish sanded it. Then drilled about a 1/8” hole in the center of the block about ½” deep to use as a reference when reversing the ring. Used a parting tool to almost separate the ring from the block and finished the cut with a saw. When parting the ring – make sure that you start the cut so the ring block will be at least double the thickness of the finished ring dimension. You don’t want this to be a true ring form yet as the remaining center section will be used to align the ring.

Face the block and make it flat / smooth. Cover the now smooth surface of the block with double sticky tape. I use 2” carpet tape cause I can get it at the local Menards. Here is where the 1/8” drilled hole comes in to play… turn the ring so that the finished surface will be against the tape, use the tailstock to center the ring and apply pressure until you are confident the ring will stick.

At this point you can turn, shape and finish sand that side of the ring. Remember that it is tape holding the turning – so don’t get to aggressive! When finished, it only takes a little finger pressure to remove the ring from the tape!

Hope that makes sense.
 
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