Screw Chucks

Mike Mills

Member
Messages
140
Location
Harrisburg, NC
I started out turning everything with a spur drive and only changed to a faceplate when I ran into a very punky piece of wood. I have never thought about the screw until brought up in another recent post.
I do have a screw drive which came with my chuck but have never used it.
Other than punky wood, what other cautions should I be aware of? I watched Stu's video, on a larger piece of wood should the top be flattened so chuck jaws will sit flat on the wood?
I want to give it a go next weekend so any suggestions/precautions will be appreciated.
Mike
 
.....on a larger piece of wood should the top be flattened so chuck jaws will sit flat on the wood?
.....Mike

Ideally yes, but if not possible to get full diameter register then insert wedges and secure them with Hot Melt to hold them against centrifugal forces while you turn chuck spigot/socket. Often pack one side of Chuck Jaw contact with coffee stirrer and hot melt for blanks from tapered stock.
 
Depends on the screw chuck - if it's got a big fatty screw, there's no need for the stock to touch the body all the way around. It doesn't hurt, though... although it may be pretty hard to get it really seated, which is why most folks who use one don't go very far out of their way to flatten the side that'll get the screw.

One really strong word of warning: do NOT - EVER - let your SLEEVE get caught in the dang thing!
 
I have a Pinnacle (now wood something) from Woodcraft and just bought a SuperNova 2 when they had their sale (my $25 certicate won at my local woodturning club didn't hurt). The SN2 screw is much larger. I guess the CN2 is a fatty.
The ones I have seen used in videos were all used with plates/platters and with dry wood (Raffan and David White). My concern is with green wood.
Looking for a heads-up or DONT do this.
Mike
 
The SN2 is similar to my home made ones,

DSCN1292.JPG


Grips quite well in wet wood if drilled hole is kept to minimum diameter, if you can't move it by hand then it should be fine.
 
Thanks Chas and Tim.
Thats one nice piece of work on that screw chuck Chas.
The piece I am going to try next weekend is walnut about 11" diameter.
I will at least remove the bark and then use the tail stock as Stu showed in his video. Should stay put with no problem.
Mike
 
Mike it will work, but you still got to be gentle, the screw is not that large. Also I find it a good idea to check the pressure on the tail stock frequently, as you turn the live center in the tail stock can work itself deeper into the wood, thus reducing the pressure on the tail stock, so just give the handle on the tail stock a crank every now and then.

Cheers!
 
Mike, the SN2 instructions says not to exceed 600 rpm with the screw chuck. Use the tail stock as long as possible. Also, it seems like every time I screw the work piece off and on it loosens it up a bit and make the grip a little more sloppy.

I use the screw chuck (and 60º live center) to turn a tenon and the bottom of the bowl, then chuck up the tenon to do the inside.
 
Thanks for that headup Chuck.
I round with a chain saw and start at 200 or so but then (as soon as possible) I crank it up to 800-1000. I'll keep my foot light on the petal with this one and try to maintain the posted speed limit.
Mike
 
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