Finishes for turning

Drew Watson

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Salt Spring Island, BC Canada
I have not gotten to the stage of having things look good enough to applying a finish to it. Just wondering what is used to finish off projects to get that show room finish that makes one proud to show it off. There must be a certain way to finish off projects. Guidence appreciated:dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
Guru's, huh? Hmmmmm. :dunno:

Ok, I will tell you what I use.

Mostly wiped on Polyuethane,
Some Tung Oil Finish, (not true Tung oil though)
Some wiped on thin CA glue, (mostly for smaller things)
Some spray can lacquer, (both gloss and satin)
And some, just Johnson's paste wax.

Nothing special from here. I have been wanting to try some shellac, but not yet.

Aloha, Tony
 
My favorites are Min-Wax Antique oil...very similar to tung oil, dewaxed shellac, Deft brushing lacquer.

I apply the Antique oil off the lathe. The dewaxed shellac and Deft brushing lacquer I apply on the lathe and friction them.

The biggest benefit comes from a Beal buffing system or similar system. This really improves finishes of all kinds!
 
A lot of it depends on the piece and the wood, but for most bowls and hollow forms I like Minwax Antique Oil or Formby's Tung Oil Finish, both of which are simply wipe-on varnish with a bit of oil added. If I want more gloss after a few coats of the wipe-on stuff, I'll use spray gloss lacquer over the oil finish (after giving the oil finish a week or so to cure). I know some people recommend against using lacquer over an oil finish, but so far I've not had any problems with it.

For smaller things like potpourri bowls and weed pots/vases that are finished on the lathe, I like Myland's Friction Polish, which is a shellac/wax bland. I've used CA on pens and bottle stoppers. (Although for pens and bottle stoppers, I really like turning acrylics, since no finish is needed...just sand and buff.)

Other finishes that are popular (but I've not tried yet) are Danish Oil, Waterlox, wipe-on polyurethane, various sanding sealers, and General Finishes Seal-A-Cell or Arm-R-Seal.

And as Ken said, the Beall buffing system (or its equivalent) makes the biggest difference to me. It'll make pretty much any finish look better. I also use white Scotch Brite pads or 400 to 600 grit sandpaper to knock off the dust nibs between coats of finish and before buffing.

I guess there really is no right answer to your question. I'd suggest trying various finishes as you go along, and you'll find a few that work best for you. I think that's pretty much what the rest of us have done.
 
Thanks for all the input into this. I have tried tung oil as a trial but have not been happy with the results. I have tried paste wax, stain and Tried and true from LV. I have been giving everything a shot as i am sure that the finish can make or break a work. The beal system has been mentioned before and I guess that is on the list of have to gets. This is different to anything i have tried before so it is fun trying out all the different techniques to see what works the best. Is there any wood that works better with a certain finish?
 
Really depends a whole lot on the effect you're lookin' for. I've used friction polish (loved it for about a week) and BLO and homebrewed Danish oil and Watco and shellac and homebrewed shellac-wax blend and pure carnauba and lacquer and polyurethanes... I've tried CA as a finish & it fails - every time - miserably - in my shop. Probably the humidity.

there's a bunch of stuff out there to try & see if you like how they work in your shop.

I've never used a buffing system, but I HAVE been known to buff with a rag at pretty high lathe speeds. It's not overly important if the rag is spinning (buffing system) or the workpiece is spinning & the rag held against it, as long as the rag is turned OFTEN to prevent buildup. I do know lotsa' folks use buffs... but I've also seen some beautiful wet-glass-finish stuff come out of a bodger's shop where no buff had ever been.

Try turning some rock maple. Sand it REALLY WELL (chase down every flaw), then finish it with super blonde shellac. You'll love it. :)
 
...I've never used a buffing system, but I HAVE been known to buff with a rag at pretty high lathe speeds. It's not overly important if the rag is spinning (buffing system) or the workpiece is spinning & the rag held against it, as long as the rag is turned OFTEN to prevent buildup. I do know lotsa' folks use buffs... but I've also seen some beautiful wet-glass-finish stuff come out of a bodger's shop where no buff had ever been...

IMHO, the key to buffing is the compounds more than the buffing method. I see buffing compounds (tripoli, white diamond, and other similar compounds in particular) as just then next step up in abrasives. I've also used pumice, rottenstone, and automotive rubbing compounds on flatwork finishes to get the same type of results. I think a dry rag used at high speed can have a similar effect, although personally I consider it to be burnishing more than polishing. In the end, I don't think it matters how one does it, as long as the finished product looks the way it's intended to look. :D
 
Well that is one thing I didn't think of, the humidity and temp of the shop. I guess that can have a huge impact on the finish too. Interesting debate on the buffing system too. I can see both the points but wouldn't the buffing system work better than the spinning work with the stationary cloth as the buffing compound is on the cloth rather than the work or is it just an apples vs oranges debate?
 
...wouldn't the buffing system work better than the spinning work with the stationary cloth as the buffing compound is on the cloth rather than the work or is it just an apples vs oranges debate?

When you're buffing with wheels, you put the compound on the wheels, not the wood. About the only cases I know of where you apply the compound to the workpiece is if you're using automotive paste compounds, and then I've always just rubbed them off by hand. I would think if you were using a rag on a spinning piece, you could also charge the cloth with stick-type compound like those used with buffing wheels.

For me, one advantage to using buffing wheels is that I can run the wheels perpendicular to the axis of the piece. That wipes out any telltale rings around the piece. When I use on-lathe finishes like friction polish, I can see faint ridges and lines around the piece. The buffer gets rid of those.
 
Like others have said, it depends on the wood and what you are using it for.

One thing that I'm finding useful for turnings that are going to be used as opposed to just looked at, is the Eli Wax, which is 80% mineral oil and 20% beeswax. If you get reclaimed beeswax, then it will add a slight amber color to the wood, very slight, but if you get the beeswax before the bees get to it, then it is clear, and will not add any color.

I wipe it on fairly thick, with the lathe turned off, then rub it in, let is sit for 5-10 minutes, then I turn on the lathe at 1500 rpm, and using a paper towel, I buff it. This finish is fairly robust, not dishwasher safe, but robust, and from time to time you can just wipe on a bit more to freshen it up, totally food safe as well.

For shiny things, I like the rattle can lacquer, then buffed, but make darn sure the lacquer is VERY well dried, or you WILL be sanding it and refinishing it..... DAMHIKT :doh:

Cheers!
 
That is very interesting about the bees wax Stu. I never would have thought. Where do you get Eli wax? and non colored bees wax? Now with that have you tried the LV Tried and True finish for turned projects as it is Linseed oil and beeswax combined? Is the key to letting the finish sink into the work with the lathe not turning and then applying the finish of does it require multiple coatins of the finish to get a good finish built up? That was another question as to the lathe speed. I am finding i am getting some good finishing results with the lathe speed around 1300 rpm is faster better for sanding and buffing? How fast is fast enough and how fast is too fast? Back in school ( if I remember right ) we never finished anything off on the lathe we assembled the work then applied the stain and finish in the finishing room.


Like others have said, it depends on the wood and what you are using it for.

One thing that I'm finding useful for turnings that are going to be used as opposed to just looked at, is the Eli Wax, which is 80% mineral oil and 20% beeswax. If you get reclaimed beeswax, then it will add a slight amber color to the wood, very slight, but if you get the beeswax before the bees get to it, then it is clear, and will not add any color.

I wipe it on fairly thick, with the lathe turned off, then rub it in, let is sit for 5-10 minutes, then I turn on the lathe at 1500 rpm, and using a paper towel, I buff it. This finish is fairly robust, not dishwasher safe, but robust, and from time to time you can just wipe on a bit more to freshen it up, totally food safe as well.

For shiny things, I like the rattle can lacquer, then buffed, but make darn sure the lacquer is VERY well dried, or you WILL be sanding it and refinishing it..... DAMHIKT :doh:

Cheers!
 
To blend the wax and the mineral oil (you can buy quarts of mineral oil in the pharmacy cheap, it is sold as a laxative) I put a small glass jar on my scale, zero it, then I add say 80 grams of oil, then I cut up some beeswax and add 20 grams of beeswax, so I have 100 grams 80/20 mix. I then put this in a pan of water, so the water level is equal to the of the oil/wax.

I then boil the water, not too much, I don't want any water to get into the jar, then I just reduce the heat to keep it simmering, when the wax is all melted, I turn off the heat and leave it, by the next morning the water is cool and so is my new Eli wax :D

I have no idea where you get the unused beeswax, maybe a candle shop or something :huh: :dunno:

I buy the used stuff from the place we get our honey from, a big 1kg block of it, lasts quite a while.

My finish is not one that you build up a "Film" with, it is more of a finish you would put on a salad bowl etc. I have the same finish on my bench it is good, glue don't stick to it, but it is not slippery, like some film finishes can become, and I can easily sand my bench a bit and add some more finish to it.

Cheers!
 
Someone told me almost any finish can be used over shellac so being impatient, shellac is my most used product. I normally start with shellac from the can and cut with 2 parts DNA , then the next coat I add an additional part shellac (now 50/50), After that it is just shellac. I don’t bother to sand in between coats. To finish that I dampen a rag with DNA and rub the item while still on the lathe. All rings or brush marks are immediately melted away and a flat finish remains. Then for low luster I buff with steel wool, a little higher steel wool with a bee’s wax/mineral spirits mix, or for high luster Mylands friction polish on top.
I did get lots of rings with the Mylands to start with, still get a few. If that happens I don’t sand, I just rub with a little DNA and they are gone and I put a new coat on.
I do use things like Minwax for some items; mainly things that didn’t go well like punky wood that may be impossible to sand smooth between the soft and hard wood. Gives some protection but the imperfections do not show up since there is no gloss.
Mike
 
What I personally do is what I did on old Hot rod cars painted with lacquer.
Seal with shellac.

1. Spray a light tack coat let dry a few minutes.
2. spray a coat that makes it glossy, Don't do over board here, soon as you get the gloss Stop!.
3. Next day same thing gloss coat.
4. Next day sand with 400 hundred (wet, soak paper in water over night) you'll see some crater's, don't try and sand them all out, they'll fill in.
5.Spray a couple of wet coats.
6.Next day sand with 600 wet, you'll see less crater if any at all.
7.Next day spray and sand with 800 (always wet)
8.Then buff with Beal or similar pads. Don't go from one pad to the other with out wiping down the piece with a little alcohol or you'll rub the previous compound onto the next buffing wheel.
9.Then stand back and admire you glass like deep finish.

A lot of work, sounds like it, but you have to wait a day for the lacquer to semi cure any way. Caution don't think the harder you press on the buffing wheel the shiner it will get, you have a lot of uncured finish a light pressure is all that is needed or you will melt the finish,and the you'll have a real mess and it might mean a start over. In fact a few days doesn't hurt to let it cure out. I have done it a few but save it a few times by taking a rag (not a paper towel) and rubbing the scared area real light lightly and repray a coat over the whole piece.

Bill

Just my way and I get a lot of how did you do that, Lots of other successful ways

We used to go down to 2000 grid on a cars that shined like a diamon, Hard to do (start shinning a beautiful finish) but the end results was a stop you in your tracks finish.

I've found thought 800 is all that's need on wood progects.
 
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