Router Table Builders - Some help with DC

Or, you can do it yourself with scrap. Like this:

RouterDC0.jpg


RouterDC1.jpg


RouterDC2.jpg
 
Hey Bill,

What is the red between the elbows and the hose?

Are the elbows a plumbing fitting of some sort, and if so, what size is everything?

I got my Dust Deputy and wanted a tidier construction than hose from vac to cyclone.

Thanks for your help.
 
Hey Bill,

What is the red between the elbows and the hose?

Are the elbows a plumbing fitting of some sort, and if so, what size is everything? ...
Carol,

The red pieces are from a set of 2.5" dust collection parts a friend gave me. I have no idea where he got it, unfortunately. Mating components of 2.5" nominal size can be a bear at times, but the system he had included several types of adapters to go with the clear rigid pipe. The red parts between the hose and elbow is ridged on the hose side and smooth on the other.

I finally found a reference for a 2.5" DC system like I described. Here it is.
 
I had a shop made box a few years back prior to building my cabinet. I was just hoping this commercial version would help out some folks who seem pensive about getting started on their router tables :thumb:.
 

Attachments

  • RT-DC-BACK-IN-THE-DAY.jpg
    RT-DC-BACK-IN-THE-DAY.jpg
    107 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
as long as you are drawing air past the router, it should be cool enough to not be a problem.and like bill shows you want the side to converge to the out let hole and also have a n incline down to the back as well ..its better than flat like bill's and mine are.
 
... ..its better than flat like bill's and mine are.
Larry,

I agree having a slope from all directions would be best but, as you can see in the photo of the inside, mine clears itself pretty well. That photo was taken after cutting over 300 half-blind dovetails in birch plywood. The air supply channel across the front of my containment box has enough of an offset that it directs air down the front panel and across the bottom of the box. Additional air is drawn through the router table/lift and keeps the router itself clean. Having said that, if I were to build another box, I'd probably include a sloped bottom.

Then again, if it ain't broke, why try to fix it? :thumb: :D :eek:
 
Hi Glenn here is my set up. I am still working on finishing it off but the dc hook up works just great. It does clean out all the dust the spots showing were when I didn't turn the dc on. When the DC is on it is hard to lift the top as the suction is too strong.
 

Attachments

  • Router table 001.JPG
    Router table 001.JPG
    118.1 KB · Views: 20
  • Router table 2 002.JPG
    Router table 2 002.JPG
    110.7 KB · Views: 24
  • Router table set up 005.JPG
    Router table set up 005.JPG
    127.6 KB · Views: 22
Looks good Drew. Mine evolved into this:

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30108&d=1237754242

The reason for the OP was for the folks who post here that seem unsure about starting their router table. I just thought it might give them a bump ;-)

No worries Glenn. I was initially looking at doing what you had with your set up, the double hose connections and the peg board front but found hooking the fence hose into the back of the unit and eliminating the peg board front allowed lots of suction to keep the router and fence clear. It just made things more mobile with less hoses.
 
Top