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Thread: Boring a deep hole for hollowing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Palm Springs, Ca

    Boring a deep hole for hollowing

    I made a vessel today and used a long auger bit to bore the center out before hollowing. I noticed that it wobbled and im sure traveled as it bore down to the depth i wanted (see Pic below). I found it really didnt matter and i still was able to hog out just as well. Wondering what others are doing when having to hollow deep. Comments ??
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Honolulu, Hawaii

    Boring a deep hole for hollowing


    I'm thinking that the long shank on your drill contributed to the movement of the drill. A shorter drill would help control that better. I use a Forstner bit or a spade bit to drill out hollows.

    Aloha, Tony
    "You got to learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself". (Author unknown)

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    I also use a Forstner or spade bit for that type of thing. I've got an 8" extension for the Forstner bits, and even with just that much extra length, I get some degree of wobble. Still, nothing that I can't even up once I start turning.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Goodland, Kansas
    I use my hollowing tools. I used to drill but found it was not need. I watched David Ellsworth hollow without drilling and after watching him do it I found I didn't need to. I use Ellsworth tools on smaller pieces and tools made for me by a special friend in southern California for the bigger pieces.
    Bernie W.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Bradford, Vermont
    I just use a long bradpoint bit in a handheld chuck. The torque isn't great enough that it's even really very uncomfortable to hold the chuck. You can get a decent 3/8" to 1/2" bradpoint very easily in 6", 12", and 18" lengths. The shorter the bit, the easier it is to control it.
    -- Tim --

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    An extension that long is bound to wobble.
    It might help if you put the tool rest on the shank about half way.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  7. #7
    I use this auger I got from Amazon for about 20 bucks, it's a Bosch, don't know if they still have them or not. It's 1.5" x 17". It hogs through endgrain with ease. In fact, I had to dull the threaded pilot point cause it was self feeding to agressively. It will sometimes track off center a bit, but not enough to be a problem. I know a lot of pros don't bother to drill a hole, but my tools are big and crude and homemade, I need the room, and the assist

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
    I have an old style brace and bit type of bit about 3/8" and about 10 or 12 inches long that I've put a handle on so I can just hold it by hand and that's what I use... I don't usually have quite as deep hollow forms as yours though...
    Tellico Plains, TN
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Schenectady, NY
    I use Morse taper drill bits mounted directly in the tailstock. No fuss, no muss. Got a whole bunch on eBay a while back for about a dollar a piece. Probably a lifetime supply.
    Don Orr

    Woodturners make the World go ROUND

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