Boat sealing

Bill McQueen

Member
Messages
140
Location
Lincoln AR
I built model boat with a laminated top. Cherry then popular the cherry etc. So now I have a stripped top, look great.

Problem
I sealed it with shellac and about a week later (after making other parts of the boat I sprayed clear lacquer over the laminated top. I was real shiny until it dried, then it looked like it had nothing on it.

After third try I decided I need some professional help on finishing. This drinking enough lacquer to float a battle ship. It's not end grain, I cut strips off a board.

does it need to be sealed with something else?

Thanks Bill
 
Bill I have been studying the process of making a strip canoe and the sealing process used there that i would suggest you consider is fibre glass mat and expoxy.

It comes out as clear as glass so you still see your lovely wood but it seals and protects the wood forever (cuts scratches etc excluded of course) The recommended one i have seen is West System Three. Dont know where you get it in USA but in Canada you can get it from these guys I know they have a USA site as well. They provide all sorts of boat building goodies. But you will have to find out if the current finish you have used will interfere with it before you go ahead and apply it. I cant help you there (still a rookie in these areas).:D
 
Jim it was gloss lacquer. Every other project, like a wood bowl or anything else I've finished comes out glossy.

I sand between coats and it looks like glass when I finish.

The problem here is it's like painting unsealed siding I put a gallon of paint onto one, until a a painter said you need to seal it stupid, or it will soak up another gallon.

The boat is a model about 17" long and 4 inches wide.

What would you guys recommend to seal it with so it will stop absorbing everything up! :)

Thanks Bill
 
I'd say... seal it with shellac. Hit it with shellac until it's glossy from THAT, THEN lacquer it. If it's not glossy after the shellac, there's not nearly enough on/in it.

Remember - shellac is a LOT less expensive than lacquer. Easier to work with, too, and dries between heartbeats so you can recoat continuously.
 
I'd say... seal it with shellac. Hit it with shellac until it's glossy from THAT, THEN lacquer it. If it's not glossy after the shellac, there's not nearly enough on/in it.

Remember - shellac is a LOT less expensive than lacquer. Easier to work with, too, and dries between heartbeats so you can recoat continuously.
What Tim said. And make sure it's de-waxed shellac or you top coat wont stick.
 
De-waxed shellac, I guess I better do some checking I never new there was wax shellac. I used this stuff on several other projects with success. May I['ve kept the shellac too long. Or maybe my lacquer is too old. Thanks for your input.

Bill.

Ps out of desperation I put some wipe on Polly on it. WRONG. when it dried I had a crackle finish to sand off. Also I painted the bottom green (spray can) it was cedar wood and won't dry. Been over week.

Bill :wave:
 
De-waxed shellac, I guess I better do some checking I never new there was wax shellac. I used this stuff on several other projects with success. May I['ve kept the shellac too long. Or maybe my lacquer is too old. Thanks for your input.

Bill.

Ps out of desperation I put some wipe on Polly on it. WRONG. when it dried I had a crackle finish to sand off. Also I painted the bottom green (spray can) it was cedar wood and won't dry. Been over week.

Bill :wave:
Bill,
Shellac is made from bugs, actualyy the exoxelatine of but and contains a natural wax. If this is not removed then your top coat won't take.
 
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