Some advice on whetstones/waterstones please?

Mark Rios

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Central CA
For the last 20+ years I've used a Japanese waterstone for finishing from "King". At least that's the name is on the end of the wood holder that it is attached to. I don't think it's a super fine, 8000 grit; I believe it's just a 2000 grit stone. It was originally about 7/16" to 1/2" thick, came attached (glued?) to a wooden block and it was tan to light tan in color (for those of you that know what the heck I'm talking about :D ).

Well, I broke it today. Should I get another 2000 grit Japanese waterstone to replace it or should I get something different, maybe made from a different material? I'll probably get an 8000 grit as well. Should I get a 4000 grit stone also so that that jump from a 2000 grit to an 8000 grit isn't too big?

Are there differences in brands?

I currently have 220 grit, 325 grit and a 600 grit DMT "stones" and a 1200 grit waterstone and, up until today, the 2000 grit waterstone.

I, and maybe some other folks not too familiar with waterstones, could use a little advice and information on this type of thing.

Thank you very much for your advice and information.
 
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Hi Mark. Let it dry very, very well and epoxy it back together. You'll need to flatten it, but it will be fine.

King stones are pretty good stones made all the better by their cost effectiveness. Treat yourself to the 6k or 8k...

Take care, Mike
 
Hi Mark--I just read your post a little more carefully.

The jump to a 6k or an 8k will be fine if you use micro/secondary bevels. But if not, it will just take a little longer to hone the entire bevel. So do consider a 4k or a 6k at that point.

I go from a 2k straight to an 8k every day. But I do hone a micro-bevel at the 8k stage.

Take care, Mike

EDIT: btw, a hard black Arkansas, while a nice stone, is comparable to 9 micron diamond paste, or 1000 grit silicon carbide paper.
For comparison, see http://users.ameritech.net/knives/grits.htm
 
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