Dan I pretty much follow what Stu does except I use Minwax Antique Oil instead of Danish oil. I also soak my items with the AO until they won't take any more. I just keep putting it on till I don't see anymore dry spots. I let it sit for 10 minutes or so then wipe off the excess and let dry for 24 hrs. I use a synthetic pad to go over it and then do it again. Soaking and letting sit for 10 minutes then wiping off the excess. I do this probably 3 times.
As far as just plain oil goes I use Mike Mahoney's walnut oil on a lot of my utility items. The other finish I have started using is the AO on utility stuff. I talked with Ernie Conover and he told me he tried several finishes and that is all he uses on anything. He said he found that AO holds up better than any other finish even on utility items.
If it is a art piece like Stu I either use gloss rattle can poly or Deft rattle can lacquer with a sanding sealer first. Sometimes with lacquer I will burnish on either 1 or 2 lb mixture of Shellac. I don't do enough pieces to justify the expense or the setup of a air sprayer for a vase or two or a couple of art items. As for wax about the only thing I do wax are my art pieces with Ren Wax. I find that beeswax or carnuba leave to many finger prints and if you get water on them they water spot bad. I will buff a few pieces starting with Tripoli then WD (on some woods but not all, like walnut) and then Ren Wax.
I have found out here in our area anyway that I do not see any difference in sales between buffed and non-buffed pieces. Maybe I would feel different if my pieces were going into a high end Gallery.
I have tried a lot of finishes throughout the last 4 yrs and have pretty much settled with the above. One finish that I am going to try that I haven't is Waterlox. One thing I don't like on bowls, vases, etc is friction polish. It is not worth the effort IMHO.
Hope this helps Dan.
Last edited by Bernie Weishapl; 02-01-2010 at 03:20 PM.
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