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Thread: BLO

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Muhr View Post
    I've done testing with it as a step under other finishes. I've found that I can't tell finish samples where I applied BLO under Lacquer from finish samples where I used lacquer alone. As someone stated above, any finish with an amber tint will pop the grain the same way that BLO will.
    It realy depends on the type of top coat you use. I use wipe on poly that is clear so I have found that the blo enhances the finish. It also acts as a sealer so I don't have to use as much top coat as I would otherwise. It's realy a matter of personal preferance. When I did a workshop with Sam Maloof he said he used a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung oil and 1/3 wipe on poly. He used 12 coats.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  2. #12
    Make sure that you allow ample time for the BLO to cure before you overcoat w/ shellac because, unlike most varnishes, shellac does not have the same solvent base. I've always given BLO several days to cure before using shellac.

  3. #13
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    Oct 2006
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    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Muellner View Post
    Make sure that you allow ample time for the BLO to cure before you overcoat w/ shellac because, unlike most varnishes, shellac does not have the same solvent base. I've always given BLO several days to cure before using shellac.
    The best way to tell if BLO is dry is to smell it. If the oder is gone it's dry
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    southern Nevada
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    2,194
    Not to muddy the issues here, but what is the difference between polyurethane and polyvarathane? Would do de mean when we say "poly?" And, last, any particular favorite brand?

    Inquiring minds......etc.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lindale, TX
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    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Baer View Post
    It realy depends on the type of top coat you use. I use wipe on poly that is clear so I have found that the blo enhances the finish. It also acts as a sealer so I don't have to use as much top coat as I would otherwise. It's realy a matter of personal preferance. When I did a workshop with Sam Maloof he said he used a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung oil and 1/3 wipe on poly. He used 12 coats.

    That's why I pointed out that any topcoat with an amber tint will pop the grain like BLO. Also, BLO's characteristics as a sealer are vastly overrated. As I said earlier, it is a curing oil so it does seal to some extent and is a slight improvement to bare wood. However, I would not count on it and would use as many coats of sealer as I would if I hadn't used BLO.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianola, Ia about 12 miles south of Des Moines
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    431
    Carol, I don't know the differance between the two. I have used Varathane brand in the past. I now use Minwax brand and in the fast dry formula. I have used this for about 4-5 yrs. I have very good succuse with it. I use it because it drys faster than the other brand, but Varathane may have a fast dry formula now also. I haven't checked.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    14,437
    Rex, what type of wood are you using,that you are looking to get the grain to pop on.. i have used shellac for that purpose and you can get the amber if you use a dewaxed shellac,, or a more redish tint in garnet shellac, if you tell us what wood perhaps those that have done some projects and have close up pics could post them or a link to them for you to see and they can tell you there regime in gettin there..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #18
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    Mar 2007
    Location
    southern Nevada
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    Is polyurethane the product and polyvarathane a brand name for polyurethane?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carol Reed View Post
    Is polyurethane the product and polyvarathane a brand name for polyurethane?
    Varathane markets several types of polyurethane as do Minwax and other manufacturers.
    Bill Arnold - Website - ShopCam
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic by professionals.
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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianola, Ia about 12 miles south of Des Moines
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    Larry, I am making some infant caskets. Wearabilaty is not an issue. I have some that the box is maple with cherry trim. Red oak with ash trim and red oak with burr oak trim. I did a mix to see which I would like better and I was using wood that I had or was given to me. I have 3 complete units from ash that I am going to try BLO with shellac, Minwax Antique Oil Finish and Minwax ployurethane. I am a couple of days from finishing, but will show pics when done. (That is if I can remeber how to post pics.)

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