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Thread: Finishing table top after painting

  1. #1
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    Finishing table top after painting

    Hey all, you may have seen the table I have been working on and asked for ideas how to finish it.



    I have stained the bottom to match the stools and stained the edges of the top and painted the top a cream color. Then I'm going to sand some paint off the edges to give a distressed look.



    I'm wondering if there's something I can apply on top of the paint to make the top more durable and stand up to the abuse it will get from my kids. I have some water based polyurethane I'm thinking about using but it is a clear satin and I want more of a sheen that will match the semi gloss polyurethane I have for the bottom.



    Any ideas or recommendations?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5ed0c82b-d179-442d-9a4d-5e26540b64cf_4.jpg   51A8SjgMhWL._SL500_AA280_.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Minwax also makes a gloss wipe on poly.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
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    Thanks, what's the rules on applying oil based products on top of water based products or vice versa? I was told you can apply oil based products on top of water based products but not the other way around. Can I apply the water based polyacrylic I mentioned on top of the paint and then oil based polyurethane on top of that since I already have both products?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Pierce View Post
    Thanks, what's the rules on applying oil based products on top of water based products or vice versa? I was told you can apply oil based products on top of water based products but not the other way around. Can I apply the water based polyacrylic I mentioned on top of the paint and then oil based polyurethane on top of that since I already have both products?
    Minwax makes an oil based poly.Click image for larger version. 

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    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
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    Let me get this straight. You've already distressed the table, but you're worried about the kids distressing it more? All kidding aside, the paint you used is considered a pretty high quality and durable paint. I don't know how much durability you've got to gain by adding a polyurethane top coat. I work under the opinion that if it's going to get beat up, don't finish it in such a way as to make it harder to repair the finish later. I think I'd just go with the paint and see how it goes. It's easy enough to repaint it later that way. If you still think you need to add a layer of poly, just use an oil based polyurethane over your oil based paint. Before adding the poly, scuff sand everything with 320 sandpaper to give the polyurethane something to stick to.

  6. #6
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    I would be afraid of the poly yellowing the top color, especially the oil based poly.

    Tony, BCE '75

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Muhr View Post
    Let me get this straight. You've already distressed the table, but you're worried about the kids distressing it more? All kidding aside, the paint you used is considered a pretty high quality and durable paint. I don't know how much durability you've got to gain by adding a polyurethane top coat. I work under the opinion that if it's going to get beat up, don't finish it in such a way as to make it harder to repair the finish later. I think I'd just go with the paint and see how it goes. It's easy enough to repaint it later that way. If you still think you need to add a layer of poly, just use an oil based polyurethane over your oil based paint. Before adding the poly, scuff sand everything with 320 sandpaper to give the polyurethane something to stick to.
    I think I'd go the same way as Mark. You're using good paint, which should hold up well on its own. In the event it doesn't, it's pretty easy to repair. If you start building layers of different materials, you increase the difficulty of any future repairs. And face it, no matter what type of finish it has, somewhere down the road it'll need some sprucing up.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  8. #8
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    If you use RUST-OLEUM you do not need to use a sealer with this paint. Spray on a couple light coats dry and sand. Then add another 2 light coats , let dry and sand 320 then apply one or 2 good coats. let dry and wax with Butchers Wax. You can get no-yellowing.
    This is a great paint for DO-IT-YOURSELFER'S
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

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