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Thread: Raised panel drawer fronts

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Raised panel drawer fronts

    I am finally building a cabinet with raised panel drawer fronts that will use handles. The front will overlay the cabinet edges and hide the metal drawer slides - what some people call a 5 side drawer.

    My question deals with how the handle is attached... In all cases I will have to attach the rails and stiles to the drawer front to keep the alignment, no matter what I do with the handle and floating panel.

    Option 1: can I just attach the handle to the floating panel? The handle pulling on the panel will in turn pull on the slots in the rails and stiles.
    Option 2, must I get extra long screws for the handle, and go through both the floating panel and the drawer body (the panel no longer floats),
    Option 3, attach the handle to the floating panel, but screw the floating panel to the drawer body to reduce the strain on the slots in the rails/stiles
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  2. #2
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    I have always just screwed the drawer fronts on to the drawer. Then counter sink the screw hole for the knob until the screw sticks out far enough to hold the handle on.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  3. #3
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    When I replaced the drawer pulls in our bathroom, I ended up going with your option #3. The drawers are plywood boxes without mechanical slides. The front panels are painted MDF. The old pulls were bodged together with long screws (drywall screws into machine threads, no less). The new drawer pulls had different hole spacing than the original ones, so I patched the holes and repainted the front panels, drilled new holes and mounted the handles on the panel alone, with countersunk screw heads. Then I used Spax screws from the inside of the drawer to attach the MDF faces. Dunno if it was the right way, but it worked.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  4. #4
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    Nov 2006
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    Cedar Rapids, IA
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    I'm only had one project I've done this with and I used option #1. A couple years later, I ended up drilling access holes in order to tighten the handle screws.

    Next time, I was already planning to do what Chuck suggested.

  5. #5
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    Delton, Michigan
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    another vote for chucks methode, the loosing screws would definatly be something that would happen to me on the other ideas you mentioned. and the floating panel really shouldnt move much charlie unless its quite large frnt.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    I use extra-long, sectioned screws to attach handles to drawer fronts through the drawer box. I also use washer head screws to further stabilize the drawer front to the box.

    Here's the multi-length screw.

    Here's the washer head screw.
    Last edited by Bill Arnold; 02-11-2010 at 02:21 PM.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  7. #7
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    Charlie i have done the same as Bill in the past. Extra long screws all the way through. They are not easy to find in my experience. The handle threads i have had to match were not common.
    cheers

  8. #8
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    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
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    I got longer screws frtom True Value Hardware.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Thoits View Post
    I have always just screwed the drawer fronts on to the drawer. Then counter sink the screw hole for the knob until the screw sticks out far enough to hold the handle on.
    Thanks all. The countersink won't work, since the screws that come with the handles assume a 3/4" inch drawer, and the raised panel is 3/4 thick, so the countersink in the drawer will go all the way through. However, I'm off to find longer screws!
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Plesums View Post
    Thanks all. The countersink won't work, since the screws that come with the handles assume a 3/4" inch drawer, and the raised panel is 3/4 thick, so the countersink in the drawer will go all the way through. However, I'm off to find longer screws!
    If you check the link I posted, you'll see that McFeely's has exactly what you need.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

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