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Thread: Best glue for veneer

  1. #1
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    Best glue for veneer

    I want to glue two sheets of 1/4" luan plywood together then 1 sheet of fiberboard(pegboard stuff) to the luan surface, all at one time.

    What is the best glue for this that will allow me enough time to position and set some weights on it. I have 4 pieces of 4'x4x4x3/8" steel tube that weigh a ton that I plan to lay on top of the sandwich.

    The panels are 42" long x12" wide.

    I was thinking rubber cement as that will allow me to position the panels and it will adhere instantly. I will place the 4x4x4 steel tube to cover the whole panel so the weight will be uniform through out the surface.

  2. #2
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    Not an expert, but have heard good things about Urea Formaldehyde. Dap sells it under the brand name Plastic Resin Glue if you can find it.

  3. #3
    Julio

    Not knowing what your eventual use for the piece is makes it a bit difficult to make a definitive suggestion, but I can't see any reason to use rubber cement, don't think that will be durable enough.

    If you are worried about getting everything 'lined up" squarely, I would work so I wouldn't have to worry about it. That is, get one piece of the ply cut to the accurate dimensions, then make the other two pieces 1/2" or so larger in both dimensions.

    Glue the sandwich together

    Then use a straight flush trim router bit to clean up the edges, index the bit off the master piece you cut to size.

    With this in mind you don't have to be too concerned about setup time. You could use old tried and true Titebond. If you are worried about putting the three pieces together, then just do it in two steps.

    I'd lay some 2x4 across the workpiece and then put your steel weights on top of that to spread out the pressure.

    Jay

  4. #4
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    julio, contact would be my last choice! u-f glue like travis mentions is good stuff that`s slow setting......plain ol` yellow glue or poly glue would work.....unibond-800 is good stuff too.........what`s the finished product for? you may want the elasticity of yellow glue? or the rigidity of u-f? or the weather resistance of poly.........but undoubtably you don`t want the creaping, temperature sensitive bond of contact ......tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  5. #5
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    Dumb question? But how are you going to stop the glue from squeezing out of all the pegboard holes and why would you want to block all the holes in the first place?
    --------------------------------------------
    Link to my ongoing ClearVue DC Install on CV's site: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones...s-Mini-CV1400/

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Shepard View Post
    Dumb question? But how are you going to stop the glue from squeezing out of all the pegboard holes and why would you want to block all the holes in the first place?
    The material is the fiberboard of pegboard but its not pegboard, its acutally a piece of white board that you use for markers.

    I am making extension leaves for my planer. I am glueing a piece of 1/8" whiteboard to 1/2" piece of birch plywood(I gave up on the 1/4 +1/4 of luan and just bought a 1/2 panel) I figure the smooth surface of the white board is ideal as a planer top surface.

    I am extending the leaves on both sides of the planer by 16" with the whiteboard/plywood lamination extending through the planer. I am using 2"x2" alumn screen track(very popular here in florida, and very very straight) as the base support under the whiteboard/plywood top so it should be very flat and straight.

    I used you guys advice and just used straight Tightbond yellow glue.

    I'll post pictures tomorrow if it works, if it doesnt I will deny ever mentioning such a scheme.

  7. #7
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    Oops... hold it. Don't do it.

    I wanted a bench top about 1 1/2 inches thick. I debated the strength of plywood against the smooth surface of MDF. So I glued two layers together, one of each. Now I have a hygrometer. With the different materials my bench curves (concave/convex) based on the humidity. It was a huge mistake. Whatever you do, be sure the sandwich is symmetrical.

    If you have dissimilar materials, I would use yellow glue so the different expansion/contraction doesn't split the layers apart (a tiny amount of creep rather than a fracture). On the other hand, I would use plastic resin (urea formaldehyde) for bentwood laminations where you DON'T want any creep. Or veneer where you don't tolerate creep to the side, but the material is thin enough so that expansion is out rather than sideways.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  8. #8
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    julio, here in the sticks melimine is 20 bucks a sheet for 4x8.....it`ll work as well as anything and you`ll get several extentions out of one sheet....tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  9. #9
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    i vote in favor of tods idea, you look at the factory extensions and they are useing melimine too.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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