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Paul Downes

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959
Location
Westphalia, Michigan
A question for you auto mechanic types. I had to replace a brake line on my old woods truck and I can't get the bleeders open. Anyone know a trick to get badly rusted bleeders to move? I sprayed them down with PB Blaster last night to see if that might help loosen them.

I wondered if you might have to drill them out?

I don't like the idea of sticking a torch on them with the brake line so close and rubber diaphrams on the brake cylinder.
 
I too would be very leery to put a torch on them, but maybe a heat gun? :dunno:
If I were going to have to drill them out I think I'd want to pull the whole thing off and do it on the drill press, I think it would be very challenging to try and drill it on your back under the truck.
 
Heat is usually a great help. But a well fitting wrench and sustained pressure will also work. Not a straining force or jerk but long constant sustained force. I have used this method often on bolts that are over tightened or rusty or even Lock-tite secured. one technition rounded an allen wrench on a set screw, I took a new wrench and applied sustained pressure for about two full minutes and it let go.

Try this. It do work. An olde dude larned me this trick after a couple of knuckle bustings.
 
Now see this is where the problem lies Woods truck don't have brakes. That what trees are for:doh: It should also be noted that woods trucks don't belong on the road that's why they are woods trucks:thumb::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
You can try bleeding it at the line some times this works some times it don't. But I would give it a try before braking the bleeder off.:thumb:
 
I hate to admit this but I have broke a few bleeders off. I have found most brake cylinders are reasonable anymore that fighting them isn't worth the trouble. Of course this has been on 1/2 ton and smaller. I have rarely found sustained force to work I usually find impact to work the best, The problem is these bleeders are awful small. Good luck... Also check n what a new cylinder costs you might be surprised..

Garry
 
Looks like new brake cylinders is the only way. The bleeders are looking a bit rounded. Probably end up re-doing the whole shootin match before I get done. I hate it when you go to fix a little thing and you open a can of worms that got left out in the hot sun for a day.:bang: Heck I might even get the park brake fixed.
 
I'll definitely second Garry on this - I've broken bleeders myself, and wheel cylinders are just so inexpensive it's not worth the heartache to fight with 'em if the bleeders won't come on the first try.

Now... if we were talkin' disk brakes, I'd tell you to take the caliper off & turn it so the brake line banjo was on the top, then compress the piston(s) in the caliper a little with a large C-clamp to force the air out the top. You can get by without touching the bleeder that way. :)
 
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