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Thread: Installing Stair Treads

  1. #1
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    Installing Stair Treads

    A friend's wife has ripped out all of the carpet on their stairs to their basement and is wanting oak treads installed. It currently has the particle board treads and plywood kick boards installed.

    I plan to remove at least the existing treads and perhaps the kick board depending on the clearance.

    My question is...I'm planning to use constructions adhesive to install the treads and kick boards with only a few nails to keep them in place. Is this acceptable?
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  2. #2
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    you'll be relying on glue to hold to what amounts to endgrain if the stringers are cut from dimentional lumber.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    I am facing what will probably be the same problem... carpeted stairs, presumably junk lumber underneath, no access to the underside of the stairs. I want to put on oak treads (and probably new risers too), so what is the best way to attach? Once the old tread is up, I could screw a sister to the stringer if the grain is the only problem with glue, but is there a better way?
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  4. #4
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    Glue, screw and plug or glue nail and fill. You have a pile of other options depending on your skill set but those two are going to be the easiest.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  5. #5
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    I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren Wright View Post
    I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?
    Actually, that particular glue & nail combination should be okay, and the glue should definitely help with the squeaks. My construction adhesive of preference is PL Premium, BTW.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren Wright View Post
    I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?
    Now this brings up the age old question riser on top of tread or riser behind tread?Well I know what I do and why, but lets hear from you guys which way and why?
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  8. #8
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    if you're going to build to last there are a couple of ways to strengthen the stringers and make them ready for glue.
    the most labor intensive is to let in a 2x across the face using glue and nails/screws.then add sleepers parallel to the treads behind the 2x.
    then i like to use plugged screws and more glue to affix the treads, face to edge grain.

    like jim i too use pl premium.....(don't slop it on your finished wood!)

    if you're going to mill your own treads/risers be sure to plow a stopped dado in the bottom side of the tread and cut an appropriate tongue on the riser, that way you won't need a scotia mould.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Thoits View Post
    Now this brings up the age old question riser on top of tread or riser behind tread?Well I know what I do and why, but lets hear from you guys which way and why?
    i try to glue and screw the riser into the back of the tread below it. providing i can access the back.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  10. #10
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    Or you can do it the way Sam Maloof did Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	42737 without any risers.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

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