Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Dispoz-a-Blade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bellingham
    Posts
    2,449

    Dispoz-a-Blade

    I need to buy some new knives for my Jet 13" Planer/Molder and am looking at the Dispoz-a-Blade option.

    Anyone out with some experience with this system? I know that you have the system for your jointer, Jim Delaney (from 2006 SMC post). How do you still like it?

    Is it as simple as just dropping it into the knife slot and tighting the gib bolts, with no testing of the height?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bellingham
    Posts
    2,449
    OK, I have another question concerning this. My blade is listed in the manual as being 12 1/16" x 1/16" x 5/8". This is confirmed by the replacement blade size from CPO Jet Tools. Amazon.com also shows a cheaper knife replacement for supposely the same model, but the size is 1/16" thicker at 12 1/16" x 1/8" x 5/8". The reason I am mentioning all this is that Grizzly sells the Dispoz-a-Blade for their model planer/molder G1037/Z and it it much cheaper than what I have been quoted for the JET. The blade for the G1037/Z is stated to be 12" x 1/8" x 5/8". That is a 1/16" short and 1/16" thicker that the OEM blade size for the Jet.

    So, I am thinking maybe it will fit and I can use leaveraged buying power of Grizzly to get a good deal. Anyone have some thoughts on this.

    I am going to check my planer and see if it will accept a 1/8" thick blade.

    With the sale price Grizzly has going, it is a $123 price difference.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Posts
    5,319
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Satko View Post
    I need to buy some new knives for my Jet 13" Planer/Molder and am looking at the Dispoz-a-Blade option.

    Anyone out with some experience with this system? I know that you have the system for your jointer, Jim Delaney (from 2006 SMC post). How do you still like it?

    Is it as simple as just dropping it into the knife slot and tighting the gib bolts, with no testing of the height?
    Yep! In fact, I just changed out a set of blades last weekend, and it really is as simple as dropping them in and tightening the gibs, Watch your knuckles, though - them new blades are SHARP! (DAMHIKT)

    I also have them on my 15" planer, and they work just as well, and are just as easy to change.

    They're expensive to get into, but when you compare them to the cost of aboyt three new sets of blades, and two sharpenings each, it pretty much works out about the same. After that, the Estas are significantly cheaper.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bellingham
    Posts
    2,449
    Thanks Jim, but just one question though. Do you have the Posi-Set version or the Self-Set version?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Posts
    5,319
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Satko View Post
    Thanks Jim, but just one question though. Do you have the Posi-Set version or the Self-Set version?
    Both, actually.

    The jointer (Self-Set) set has the little tabs that index off the top edge of the blade slot. Just drop them in and tighten them up.

    The planer (Posi-Set) ones set on little magnets that adhere to the bottom of the blade slot. Again, just drop the blade holders in and they sit on top of the magnets. Then tighten the gibs.

    When you go to order the first blade set, with the holders, go to the Esta website and follow their directions for getting the proper slot depth for the Posi-Sets. Have the info ready when you call, because it's the first thing they'll ask for.

    BTW, if you talk nice, you might be able to get an extra set of blades thrown in to the deal.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GTA Ontario Canada
    Posts
    12,247
    Jim, and Bill I am confused. On the Esta website there is also a link to a video for the One way blade adjustment jig with the dial indicator.

    Now this raises the point of confusion for me.

    1) The Posi or Self set dispoza blades set the blade height relative to the cutter head.
    2) So many methods and the dial indicator one way jig set the blade height to the height of the outfeed table.

    Would you therefore be shimming your cutterhead bearing points to get the blade height set correctly after using dispoza blade the first time assuming the drop in and set to cutter head setting of the dispoza blade does not result in a blade that is set to the height of the outfeed table.

    I guess what i am trying to say are all cutterheads perfectly parallel and the correct height on their rotating surface to the outfeed table? Or do you then adjust outfeed table height to match the cutterheads.

    I dunno everything here seems variable except for the dispozablade.

    I can see where they would be real great but i aint sure about the cutterhead and the outfeed table issue.
    cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Posts
    5,319
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    Jim, and Bill I am confused. On the Esta website there is also a link to a video for the One way blade adjustment jig with the dial indicator...
    Interesting. I looked for that link, but didn't find it. Where on the page is it?


    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    I guess what i am trying to say are all cutterheads perfectly parallel and the correct height on their rotating surface to the outfeed table? Or do you then adjust outfeed table height to match the cutterheads...
    The cutterheads are perfectly parallel - at least they are on both my installations - and require no shimming. That's the 'beauty' of the system.

    On the jointer, you'll have to adjust the outfeed table to correspond to the blade height, but with the Esta system, it's a one-time-only adjustment. If you're using conventional knives, you'll have to make an outfeed table adjustment after every blade change, though, because blade width would change with every sharpening.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

Similar Threads

  1. Is it the blade or the saw?
    By Roger Tulk in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-30-2012, 05:30 PM
  2. Rip Blade < 2HP Saw
    By glenn bradley in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 10-11-2009, 01:17 PM
  3. New blade!
    By Rennie Heuer in forum New Tools
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 02-14-2009, 02:15 PM
  4. As The Saw Blade Turns (updated blade charts)
    By scott spencer in forum New Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-18-2007, 06:05 PM
  5. RAS Blade
    By Pete Simmons in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 02-01-2007, 12:29 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •