Grain filler

Leo Voisine

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5,703
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East Freeetown, Massachusetts
I have some General Finishes water based grain filler, but I am not overly happy with it. Last time I used it, I had to reapply 3-4 times, and even then it was not right.

I want a clear grain filler that will fill the grain, pores, in the oak top of the dresser I am building.

I will me going for the glass smooth top - I don't want to feel the grain in the top at all.

I think an oil based product might be best.
 
leo go back and chk on here some time back there was thread on this and tod suggested a filler to do what you want and i think it was a water based one??? but in any case there is info on this here if you go look for it i cant remebr where it is or i would have postd the link.. also look at homestead finishngs site for some info or charlie plesums site..

found some info fer yu..
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16649&highlight=grain+filler
 
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....I want a clear grain filler that will fill the grain, pores, in the oak top of the dresser I am building.
I will me going for the glass smooth top - I don't want to feel the grain in the top at all.

I think an oil based product might be best.

1). apply a good sealer coat.
2). Then I apply a grain filler, wait for it to haze up and...
3). rub it in across the grain with a burlap cloth.
4). When it dries, sand it down and everything should be flat waiting for another coat of sealer or your finish coats.

Explanations:
Step 1). Most people use a grain filler slightly darker than the average dark places on the wood. In nature, holes are dark and that is what our eye accepts. Knowing this, we have to consider that the grain filler has color and will stain the wood. If the grain filler is over the sealer, it cant stain the wood.
Step 2). The haze is the start of the drying process and we want to get to it before it dries completely.
Step 3). Rubbing across the grain is less likely to pull the filler out of the grain than rubbing along the grain. Burlap is used because it is course and tough. We want to rub and force the filler into the pores of the wood and not soak it up like a softer cloth would.
Step 4). Sand back to bare wood, this should only take a few minutes. When you are done, you will have removed all of the filler sitting on top of the sealer and thus - no staining. You are now bck to bare wood except the pores are filled. At this point, you can either give it another coat of sealer or just start out with your finish coats. The choice is yours.
 
Tony gave you some good info.

You can order a product called MoHawk oil grain filler which you can add color tints to the filler also.
I like to apply at least 3 coats of sealer with sanding between coats befor I add any grain filler. This will cut down on the amount of filler needed. When I apply the filler I use a plastic or wood paddle to spread the filler. Long ways 1st then cross grain and remove as mush as posible before it sets. Then I let it set and sand with 220. A coat of sealer is sprayed on this will allow me to see if any areas are not filled. I will repeat if I need too.
 
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