If it one of them thar 3 HP contractor saws they are really only 1 1/2 HP. Also check to see what vintage it is my 97 model the arbor was just less than 5/8" from about 3/16 to 1/8 out from the flange. never could run a stacked dado on it. Sears sent me another arbor & it was the same & they tried to tell me that was the way it was supposed to be. I asked them why my Dad's Craftsman contractors saw from 1957 wasn't that way & a Dado could be run on it with no problem it got real quiet on the other end of the line. So I asked them did they know Ridgid had the same problem with their saws & had made a correction in the manufacture of the arbor & they no longer had that problem, again real quiet . I returned the arbor gave away the saw to someone that I new wouldn't be using a Stack dado. If you have a good quality wobble Dado there are a few it may work just fine & it may not even have this problem. But I would check it over & if you can't well I would run away & leave it there. Craftsman made a lot of good tools over the years then there were a number of years where they didn't & some may still not be very good thats how they earned the name Crapsman.
A 1940's Unisaw replaced it & I've never looked back. When I move to a bigger shop I'll set up my Dad's saw. too.
On the CMS check to see if there is sideways play in the arbor. Take a hold of the blade & see if you can move it any at all from side to side. With my 12" I couldn't but I always had to allow for it because if I lined the tooth up with the cut line it would be off every time. Not so with my new Hitachi SCMS right on every time. I noticed the same problem with a Craftsman circular saw side play in the arbor but my older Milwaukee right next to it works great no side play.
Last edited by Bart Leetch; 04-12-2010 at 01:31 AM.
"Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
"If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart