Chain Saw Grinder Question ?

Dan Mosley

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Location
Palm Springs, Ca
I have been thinking of getting a chain saw bench grinder for my chain saw's. I know there are hand files etc -----. I really like the speed and simplicity of the bench grinder and I do not want to fool around with the hand files and jigs.
When I take mine in to have them sharpened I see the guy behind the counter using a bench mounted grinder and he sets it quickly and zips along with this thing and within a couple mins the chain is sharpened. They also now have increased their price from $7.00 to $9.00 per chain. The other places nearby are charging as much or $10.00.
So, I figure its time I find my own way to resharpen. I found this link but I thought i would see what other turners are using in the way of bench grinders.........better deals out there maybe???

Oregon Bench Mounted Mini Grinder (115 Volt) at Bailysonline.com and it sells for $189.00

Click here: Bailey's - Oregon Bench Mounted Mini Grinder

Thoughts ???

Thanks Dan
 
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Chainsaw bench grinders are not all that great they shorten the life of your chain that's why loggers usually do it by hand, I use one that has a guide that clamps to the bar. Also the grinder sharpens to a vertical straight edge where as the file gives you a curved edge which stays sharp longer & cuts quicker. Lets face it 2-3 swipes with a file doesn't take that long to gain all of the above.

http://www.tiltonequipment.com/html/csafilingtools_92.htm

This is the kind of tool to use skip the grinder that is unless you like a chain that get dull faster & buying replacement chains because of getting ground away wasting your chain also having to sharpen it more often thus wasting your chain.
 
Chainsaw grinder question

Sorry folks,but I have to disagree on part of this.I'v been sharpening chains for well over 40+ yrs and when used properly grinders won't shortin the life of the chain any quicker than a file.I am not taking anything away from using a file.When I am (also loggers) in the field,then I use a file sometimes,but usualy I will take a few extra chains with me,then when I get several chains dull,I will set up the grinder and sharpen them all at one time.Also with a properly setup grinder you will get a more precise sharpening,whereas unless you have a bit of experiance, after a few sharpenings with a file the teeth will not be uniform,causing the saw to work harder and not cut as well.When working for a living we had a profesional grinder,but I got one from Harbor freight that was on sale for half price 39.00 about 5 yrs ago and it works just fine.
 
I have a HF chain grinder, it worked wonderful until I wore out the plastic parts. It did a great job for the money. Heck after five chains it was paid for, think I got three years out of it. I still jury rig it but have been looking at Northern Tools catalog as they have three or four different ones and they look to be less plastic.
 
Came back late. The HF model, also sold by others ($25 to $40 same rig) is just fine. As said, saves you money after just a few chains, when worn out, throw away and buy another.
Some swear by hand filing. I swear at it. Even using guides, free hand, special cuss words, can never get satisfactory results.
 
I bought the little Dremel attachment a few years ago. Don't use a chainsaw often, so I've only used the thing one time. Worked great! Has 3 different grinding stones for different angle cuts depending on the chain. Was cheap enough too. About 15.00 IIRC. And I used a cordless Dremel to do it. Jim.
 
Jim that looks pretty slick... does it work really well? I have a hard time getting my chains sharp... it's just not a talent I've ever been able to develop... would save me lots of frustration...

It works quite well. You just have to count your strokes, making sure to take the same number on each tooth, to keep the teeth even.
 
Sorry for the late post. I've been using a 12v Dremel on a car battery with the correct size stones for our Alaskan Saw Mill with a 6' bar. We use a Skill .90 head that is no longer sold in the US. We've knocked out 100's of slab and sharpened during lunch breaks with great results. We use 2 dremels and run the truck so the battery stays happy. About 15 slabs per sharpen was our last effort.
 
I'd also say that I get longer life out of chains with a grinder than people think. All you need is a very, very light touch, just enough to get sparks, unless you hit a rock or something. I sharpen much more often than most people do, I find, but don't have to remove nearly as much material from the cutters, and spend a whole lot less time cutting because I use sharp chains!! The accuracy of even cheap grinders is so much better than hand filing, and quicker and easier than the filing jigs. I own the Oregon filing jig, and have a Northern Tools grinder, which is the same model that www.baileysonline.com sells, which is a chinese copy of the $300 Oregon 511A. It works fine, but you have to adjust the setting between right and left cutters; motor doesn't get hot, and I've filed dozens of chains with it, sometimes for over an hour at a time (I have several milling chains that are 42" long with 135 cutters). I paid about $90 on sale, which has more than paid for itself! Use calipers to make sure you're getting the right and left cutters even, and you'll get the absolute longest life from your chain possible.
 
I own the Oregon filing jig, and have a Northern Tools grinder, which is the same model that www.baileysonline.com sells, which is a chinese copy of the $300 Oregon 511A.

For the sake others which one would that be?

http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catid=152

I can understand using an electric chain sharpener if your sharpening several chains but for just 1 chain maybe a couple of time a year I'll stick with my guided hand file system 2-3 swipes of the file on each tooth starting with the worst tooth to determined how many swipes & about 10-15 minutes later I'm done. It's worked great for me for 30 years now & since I don't heat with wood anymore no need to change just to cut turning wood.
 
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Bart, the one I'm referring to is here: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=78004&catID=9753 I've read a few posts on other forums confirming it is the same one painted red offered by Northern Tool here:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449

I hadn't realized that the cost was so markedly different between the two. I've been happy with mine from Northern, which is now on sale for $90, the same as I paid a few years ago. Just to be clear; the adjustment on these is not quite as tight as the much more expensive Oregon brand grinder, but if you use your head when alternating between right and left side cutters, and adjust the chain position to match your cutter length, it performs just as well, with that one tiny glitch. I don't know why it is off, but it doesn't affect the cutting angles at all.
 
Just got the HF unit yesterday. I had accidently tried to saw a rock in half with a new chain on my old wards chain saw. The sparks it threw were cool! :eek:

Anyhow, put the HF sharpener to work today and it made quick work of sharpening the chain and it now cuts pretty good.

I've got a bunch of juniper stumps I need to get out. Some I can probably get a chain around and pull out. Some I can't. I'll do only so much digging before I'll just grab the old chainsaw and cut it off below ground level. That's one of the reasons I was happy to get the HF unit for 40 bucks...
 
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