New Organ Build Topsy 3

Ahhh!

In effect, a rabbet, not a dado.

Thanks for the pix. That cleared things up for me.

I am aware the two organs are not the same, but that doesn't make me less interested! ;)
 
Little holes

Attached is a picture whose only purpose is to show that I am actually doing something. Doing it badly... but doing something.

This is Brian's Bellows Board B which doesn't have much going for it beyond alliteration.

You can see that the slot in the side isn't exactly straight. I made it by drilling 3/8" holes 4" apart on the drill press. Then slipped one over a 3/8" bit on the router table and slid it along till I got to the other. I took several passes, raising the bit each time, till I got all the way through. Only, the drilled holes wound up being a smidge wider than the slot. Not quite sure why. I'm thinking the fence on the drill press isn't square to the table. I sanded it down to make it look a little better. It's still not perfect, but it's better in person than it looks in the picture. The light is reflecting off the edges kind of funny.

Also, I haven't put the bottom on yet. That's because the plans say to round the edges of the holes on both sides and I haven't done that yet, because I'm not quite sure how to do it. Best method I've come up with so far is to roll up some 220 sandpaper into a tight cylinder and go at it that way. It works... but there's a total of 39 holes. That's going to get awfully tedious. I'm kind of hoping there's a faster, easier way to to it.

You can't tell from the picture, but there's also a tiny little twist to the board. If it were sitting flat on the saw table... well, that's just it. It wouldn't be sitting flat on the saw table. The front right corner would be maybe 1/32" off the table. I hoping that'll go away when I put the other side on.

If it doesn't, I just might start over.
 

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Attached is a picture whose only purpose is to show that I am actually doing something. Doing it badly... but doing something.

This is Brian's Bellows Board B which doesn't have much going for it beyond alliteration.

You can see that the slot in the side isn't exactly straight. I made it by drilling 3/8" holes 4" apart on the drill press. Then slipped one over a 3/8" bit on the router table and slid it along till I got to the other. I took several passes, raising the bit each time, till I got all the way through. Only, the drilled holes wound up being a smidge wider than the slot. Not quite sure why. I'm thinking the fence on the drill press isn't square to the table. I sanded it down to make it look a little better. It's still not perfect, but it's better in person than it looks in the picture. The light is reflecting off the edges kind of funny.

Also, I haven't put the bottom on yet. That's because the plans say to round the edges of the holes on both sides and I haven't done that yet, because I'm not quite sure how to do it. Best method I've come up with so far is to roll up some 220 sandpaper into a tight cylinder and go at it that way. It works... but there's a total of 39 holes. That's going to get awfully tedious. I'm kind of hoping there's a faster, easier way to to it.

You can't tell from the picture, but there's also a tiny little twist to the board. If it were sitting flat on the saw table... well, that's just it. It wouldn't be sitting flat on the saw table. The front right corner would be maybe 1/32" off the table. I hoping that'll go away when I put the other side on.

If it doesn't, I just might start over.

Brian that little bit of twist wont hurt a thing and your slot looks just fine.
As far as rounding over the holes I took a piece of 220 and use my finger and just knocked the sharp edge off that's all it needs and it goes quick but your finger dose get tired :D. You don't really need what you think of as rounded over if that makes sense. :thumb::thumb:

Your just wanting to knock the sharp edges off of everything
 
Got the idea but it's still a little bit of a problem. See, I've got very big hands. Using one of my fingers in the way you described might result in more of a depression than a rounded edge.

My wife's fingers are small, but she can't stand sanding. Hates the feel of it. And in any case, the idea of my getting her to sand 39 holes is, to say the least, laughable.

But I'll figure something out.

Oh... and for the record... the board sits flat now. I'd sort of forgot that I had to make a last minute substitute for one of stiffeners and it was just a teeeeeeeeeny bit proud of the others. A few swipes with a block plane brought everything within my level of tolerance.
 
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midio 128

although the electronics are far down the line I have decided to go with midio128 from ucapps instead of the jomega board, fed from a palm pilot with ittymidi software to play the tunes. The reasons are: a bit cheaper and this whole build is complex enough that adding a little more is no big deal. Haven't checked on the price for the solonoids from petersons yet but I assume they are the only place (or cheapest) to get them. Would be interested if anyone else might be going this route. Best to all on a successful build!
 
So far... so... whatever...

Just a little progress report. I call this photo "Homage to Jay Caughron" I'm actually just a teense further along than this... but not much.

Way I figure it, Jay, I'm about four weeks behind you on this project. Guess what? I plan to STAY four weeks behind you! AT LEAST!

Like it or not, you're my personal "canary in the coal mine." This jungle's way to thick for be to be a trailblazer. I'm not gluing any leather onto anything till you do it first and tell me it doesn't leak!

One nice side benefit about reporting on it, though: if you're gonna take pictures, you sort of HAVE to clean up your shop... at least in the area where the picture is.

B
 

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bellows questions

after applying hinge it says to make sure the ends of B and A are level. So B should be shortened because of the hinge width so the open end when resting down equals the end of A? Instructions say to drill transfer holes in front upright then drill 8 holes in front upright D, aren't they the same thing? Also can't seem to find any info on the side braces besides to install them. Thanks for your help.
 
after applying hinge it says to make sure the ends of B and A are level. So B should be shortened because of the hinge width so the open end when resting down equals the end of A?

That is correct I took a little off of each end of "B" so as to make sure that the end for the conrod hinge would still be thick enough hold a screw well


Instructions say to drill transfer holes in front upright then drill 8 holes in front upright D, aren't they the same thing? Also can't seem to find any info on the side braces besides to install them. Thanks for your help.

Yeah its the same thing just do them like the drawing on page #3 shows.
As far as braces I made mine of 1/4 X 1/2 and put a block on each end to give clearance. Will post picture to show the completed bellow with brace.
 
Here are a few more picture of the Bellow that might help others.

This shows the transfer flap valve on board "C"
100_1388.jpg
This is the leather on the hinge end joining boards "C" & "D"
100_1392.jpg
These two are to show you how the leather is folded back and glued before the covers go on this is board "B" and the front upright with hinges.
100_1393.jpg100_1394.jpg
This is the completed Bellows and man do they pump air and hold GREAT
100_1398.jpg

Hope this helps everyone

Jay
 
bellows leather

Questions before I mess up: in the DVD it appears there is a cardboard spacer under the end flap on C, is it necessary? The card stiffener measurements in brackets for the reservoir in drawing 1 are from C to D?, the others are the outside measurements? When installing the leather you install A to B, then B to C, then C to D? Also should shorten the end stiffeners at the hinges to be 1" shorter than hinge or both end stiffeners shorter? Getting ready to glue !
 
Questions before I mess up: in the DVD it appears there is a cardboard spacer under the end flap on C, is it necessary? The card stiffener measurements in brackets for the reservoir in drawing 1 are from C to D?, the others are the outside measurements? When installing the leather you install A to B, then B to C, then C to D? Also should shorten the end stiffeners at the hinges to be 1" shorter than hinge or both end stiffeners shorter? Getting ready to glue !

Ted the card board in the video is because he was showing a bellow used in the original Topsy and the holes were in the wrong place. You will not need to have it there just make sure your holes have good edges and the ply is smooth and flat.

The stiffener drawings are showing the different in size. You will need 2 ends and 4 long ones for the res that measurement is in the ( ) Then you will need 4 ends and 8 long ones for the bellows "A" "B" and "B" "C" made to the measurement with out bracket.
Trim the long stiffeners to be 1" short of hinge area on all hinge areas. The end stiffeners do not get trimmed.
Glue these to the fuzzy side of the leather making sure there is 3/4" leather showing on the top and bottom edges of all the leathers.
Start at the front (I stated with "A" TO "B")and glue one edge on then work your way around the glue the top edge on starting again at the front.
Be sure to NOT get to much glue in the hinge area or your bellow will be glue bound (DAMHINT had to redo mine)

Hope this all makes sense and I have answered your questions

Jay
 
So 2 of the long stiffeners at the hinge end of the reservoir and 4 of the others at the hinge end are shortened, do you just chop off 1" of the point and leave it flat? Also when gluing the edges the lower edge of B-C will overlap the upper edge of A-B, must the smooth side of the leather be roughed up for a good glue seal? Was planning on using cereal boxes for the cardboard but I see they are not 1mm. Still searching for something.
 
stiffeners

Yes that is right but first set them in place to see if they need to be trimmed. I had to shorten my boards ("B" "C" "D") to make everything line up because of different hinges than what John had. Thats why I had to shorten the stiffeners.

Yes you should roughen up the smooth side where the leather will over lap dose not need much tho.

I found some Crecent brand illustration board yesterday at an art supply store I'm going to use on the next bellows it was the med wt board and measured 1.2mm the back of legal pads are about the right stiffness and I have used them too.
 
bellows completed

finished the bellows, pumps air nicely but haven't checked for leaks yet-a little silicone should fix any. On to the case.
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