New Organ Build Topsy 3

Hey Folks I ran into another problem today on the bass plate on the bottom of the main windchest the drawing on pg #11 says the holes are 3/4 form the edge but the pallet magnets will not fit at that dimension I went to 1" and it seem to work the plate also will need to be more than 3 1/8 as shown. I'm using 3 1/2 and will let you know it there is a problem. I may get by with narrower but will have to use the pallet magnets from Organ Supply instead of the Peterson for the Bass pipes as they are shorter per there catalog.
 
Ted, I was referring to my "old" 1971 and 73 Karmann Ghias. That's what I have in storage. I'll check one out though.

On another front, John talks of using "twin thread" screws for assembling the organs. Has anyone found any in the US? Tried Google, after page after page of UK sites, I quit looking. Hardware stores around here never heard of them. What screws are you all using?
 
In my search for the twin thread screws, when I looked at some of their pictures, they looked like they would grip a lot better. Very good looking screws. As to stocking them for your site, I think you would need to try and find some and test them before making that decision.

I don't know if they are cut threads or rolled threads. I have been told that rolled threads are stronger, but how do you know which is which? I'll keep looking.
 
mitering pipes

I don't see any info on mitering the accompaniment pipes. Is the "A" 90 done like the counter melody pipes with the 1/2 inch narrow bend, "B" looks to just be a 45 but at what length do you cut? A might be just to keep it under the top lid but no guess on B. Can you cut these with a miter saw or would the blade chew the pipes up?
 
Yes you can cut them with a miter saw. That's what I use but you want to cut slow got to fast and it will splinter. A little bit wont hurt but try for as clean a cut as you can. I just use a combo blade on mine with 60 teeth.

Not sure on the angles yet I haven't got to that point but it will probably just have to be made to fit in your case. There are some of the country melody pipe on the outside edge of the case that are more than 90 so the point down away from the top.

Jay
 
Hi Guys,

A little info on mitering pipes. Stopped pipes are cut at 45 degrees. Open pipes must be cut at smaller angles. Usually two cuts at 22.5 degrees. A 45 degree cut of open pipes will affect their tuning and to a small degree, it's voice. Hope this doesn't confuse anyone.
 
Can't remember if John mentioned this in the video or in the manual so I'll mention it here. You must keep an open pipe a short distance from an object because it will affect the tuning similar to the metal tuning plate on the melody octave pipes.

Have you guys found any 5" hinges as John spells out? I've only been able to find 4" and 6" locally. They all seem to come in even sizes.

Next question. Can hide glue be used to glue the pump and bellows leather? I worked on pipe organs years ago and restored player pianos and hide glue was used to glue everything. Also used thick leather as the hinge for pump center board. Thought about doing that till I realized that part "D" is only 1/2 " thick. Oh well. I'll stick with Johns design.

Next question. It will come when I can think of it.:rolleyes:
 
Can't remember if John mentioned this in the video or in the manual so I'll mention it here. You must keep an open pipe a short distance from an object because it will affect the tuning similar to the metal tuning plate on the melody octave pipes.

Have you guys found any 5" hinges as John spells out? I've only been able to find 4" and 6" locally. They all seem to come in even sizes.

Next question. Can hide glue be used to glue the pump and bellows leather? I worked on pipe organs years ago and restored player pianos and hide glue was used to glue everything. Also used thick leather as the hinge for pump center board. Thought about doing that till I realized that part "D" is only 1/2 " thick. Oh well. I'll stick with Johns design.

Next question. It will come when I can think of it.:rolleyes:

Harold I used the 4" and it works just fine.
I also use hide glue on all of my bellows and really like working with it. If you are set up to do it then by all means go that route.

The way John is showing it seems to work just fine and is easy to build.

And the next answer is....................probably.........could be..........Maybe..........give it a try?????? :D:D
 
Hey Ted. Is this Avatar better? :)

Now for that other question. How did you guys layout and bend your hinges? I have one idea, but I'll take any advice on this issue. Yours will most likely be better than mine.
 
same here. BTW those 2 tools, a screwdriver and a pencil just about covers my tool collection (and some sandpaper). I think you've come up with a great bumper sticker!
 
Main windchest

Well I have been busy but I got lazy on posting picture so Im going to try to catch up here.

Here are 2 of the inside of the windchest after drilling and installing the sides.
100_1432.jpg100_1433.jpg

These are the blocks as shown on pg#10 for the 2 rows of bourdons
100_1428.jpg

Getting ready to install 100_1423.jpg

Starting the install on the the top of windchest
100_1425.jpg

Installed and ready for pipes
100_1434.jpg

Starting the Pallet valve install
100_1436.jpg

This is as far as I got. I ran out of pallet valve and will have to order more.

100_1440.jpg

This is the mod on the bass cover I am going to order 8 pallet valves from OSI for these as they are shorter and will allow more room for the baffle install in the windchest.

100_1441.jpg100_1442.jpg
 
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