Saw Stop vs the others

while doing some reading on the saw, I think one of the sites had testimonials from people who had the brake engage. I remember seeing pictures of guys holding up their little scratches on their fingers.
 
while doing some reading on the saw, I think one of the sites had testimonials from people who had the brake engage. I remember seeing pictures of guys holding up their little scratches on their fingers.

I did watch the video of the inventor intentionally stick his finger into it. I will definitely give him credit for standing behind his product.... Sticking your finger into a running saw blade on accident is one thing. Doing it on purpose is a completely different proposition...
 
Just wanted to say thanks for not turning this into a bashing type of a thread. not many places could have done what I just witnessed. Lots of good info. If the time comes, I just might get one.
 
...Not trying to hijack the thread, just wondering how many real world examples are out there of people sticking their appendages into the sawstop blade and having the technology actually save them. Wondering what they did to get it to trigger the brake....

Here's some stuff on the SawStop site:

http://www.sawstop.com/woodworking/testimonials.php

Click on each quote listed to see more info.
 
I don't see any reason to bash it. It's obviously an ingenious and well executed solution. I'm not sure I would get one right now, but that's just a factor of price and has nothing to do with the anything else. Once I win it big at the casino, I'll get me a nice 4-wheeler, and then maybe a sawstop! :rofl:
 
The bashing is usually of other saws without it. You know "why would you not want something that won't hurt you". That kind of stuff and worse. Far as that goes why would you not buy a GM product with OnStar. It will call for help.

Just goes to show the values of the folks on the board. We can have a civil discussion, without all the drama.
 
while doing some reading on the saw, I think one of the sites had testimonials from people who had the brake engage. I remember seeing pictures of guys holding up their little scratches on their fingers.


About 2 or 3 years ago there was a video on the Wood Magazine website. It's gone now, darn it. That video showed the standard hotdog test. However, instead of "gently" sliding the hotdog into the blade (as 95% of the tests seem to do) the guy held the hotdog up above the blade (holding it by the end) and then SLAMMED it down on the blade.
The cartridge fired, the blade retracted, and then they showed us the hotdog. It had a nick in it that was no more than 1/16" deep.

THAT to me was one of the best tests out there, since it showed what happens in a FAST accident.
 
Call this post, "Notes from A Relative Newbie."

I've owned a SawStop PCS for about a month now. It's my first "big kid's" saw, having had a Delta Contractor for nearly twenty years.

I've done a lot of coarse, basic woodwork over the years, but it's only in the last year or two that I've started to concentrate on refining my skills. The SS was a big, expensive step towards power and precision.

The only issue I've had with the SS is that the saw has shut itself off during use several times recently. I read the trouble shooting section and it said that could be due to several causes.

The first was a momentary dip in electric power. I'd had a dedicated 220V circuit installed for the saw, so that didn't seem likely.

Another was working with wet or green wood. A friend had warned me that doing that could actually trigger the brake, so I was aware not to try cutting anything with an obviously high moisture content unless I used the bypass feature. In any case, maple from Home Depot shouldn't fit that category.

The third possibility was just overloading the blade. Now, at first, that seemed the least likely of all. I mean, I'd just stepped up to 3hp! To my mind, I had all the power in the world.

But then I started to notice that the cut edge of the maple seemed awfully scorched. And I thought about how one of the first things I'd done after setting the saw up was remove the blade it comes with and install my Forrest Woodworker II in order to rip the maple.

As I said, I'm not a very experienced woodworker, but I had my suspicions. Took the Forrest out and brought it down to my "go to guy" at the local woodworker's supply store and asked him if he thought it was dull. He said yeah, and added that the maple might be harder than I thought.

I bought a Freud ripping blade to use while I sent the Forrest out for sharpening. I've also been taking it slower with the maple. Don't seem to be having any problems now.

Other than that, I gotta say, I LOVE this saw. And I bought it because the aforementioned "go to guy" told me that, all safety features aside, it's a beautiful saw. So far he's been right.

Referring back to the earlier post about SS selling out or going away for some reason and leaving the current owners high and dry, that seems awfully unlikely to me. For one thing, these guys are selling saws by the boatload. If I were them, I'd be looking to expand... not sell out.

But even if they were bought out, why would the new owners ever want to buy an enormously successful company, then stop doing the very thing that was making them so successful in the first place? I mean, the cat's out of the technological bag, now. And if they own the technology and know it sells, why wouldn't they just want to keep on selling?

Oh... one more comment and a question. I've always been pretty religious about unplugging my saw before I go anywhere near the blade to change it or check the height or angle or anything. Maybe overcautious, but what the heck. But with the SS, there's a master power switch in line before the starter. You can't start the saw if the switch is off. So that's effectively the same as unplugging the saw, right?

Thanks.
 
Brian, the blade that comes with the SawStop is not a bad blade, have you used it?

I have about 6 blades on hand, of various types, but at any given time maybe 3 of them need sharpening, it is just amazing to me how much better a sharp blade cuts :D

I do as you do, I just shut the saw off with the main power switch and change the blade, if you wanted to be even more careful, there is another main power switch on the side of the saw that you can turn to the off position, I don't think you need to unplug it. :dunno:

I have the industrial saw, and I just love it too. :thumb:
 
Good Machine

A lot has already been said, so I will just reiterate a few key points that I think are important.

1. It may be (undoubtedly) the highest quality controlled Taiwanese made table saw.
2. It has the heaviest built trunions of any table saw in its class.
3. It has hydraulic assistance when adjusting the blade height. Smooth as butter (Industrial Model)
4. Better dust collection than many machines.

That said, there a a few other things that I've noticed when using it at work.

1. It's rather easy to accidentally turn the machine off with your leg. Not such a bad thing, but you can't turn it back on until the blade has come to a complete stop. I prefer to be up close to the machine when making cuts, and it's right in the place I usually stand. It's almost too sensitive of a switch.

2. If the computer gets confused, it will simply shut down. One of my co-workers had to resaw some poplar, and the internal stresses in the wood pinched the blade a little. This overheated the blade to a point that caused the machine to turn off. He had to wait until it cooled down to resume work. Same thing happened again during the same job, and again he lost more time waiting for it to cool.

3. Also, check the fence faces. The quality of the fence overall is very good, but the faces sometimes aren't as flat as they need to be.


For me, it's clear that as a stand alone table saw it's high on the list, along with the Delta Unisaw. Those are my top two.

As for the customer support issue, I wouldn't be too concerned. The SS saws are the top selling brand at the Woodcraft store where I work. But even if they were bought out, and the brakes were no longer available, it could easily be rewired like a regular table saw. And you'd still have a great quality saw.

P.S. I still have to say, however, that I really like the older machines. They too, in my opinion, are top performers. Such as a PM 66 or 72, or a vintage Unisaw.
 
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Brian said, in part: "Took the Forrest out and brought it down to my "go to guy" at the local woodworker's supply store and asked him if he thought it was dull. He said yeah, and added that the maple might be harder than I thought."

Brian, my table saw is a 20 year old Delta that cost $89.00 new. According to the guys here, the motor, and power, is a joke.
The blade on it is the original combo that came with the saw, it has been sharpened once.
I frequently cut well dried maple slabs 2 1/2" thick with it. I can't run them through fast but it does a respectable job at a steady feed rate. No burning and a smooth cut.
Only problem is, the saw weighs about 30 pounds and slides across the floor when I am feeding wood through it.
So, methinks, with a lot less experience than you, the problem is not power or blade. Perhaps your fence is not parallel and you are binding as you cut.
 
i tend to agree that a fence not set right would burn the maple and that itslef would dull the blade because of over heating the teeth. or at least have excessive pitch build up. the fact that the freud cut it better, leads me to think the forrest blade wasnt made for ripping, rather a combo blade. a rip blade is made differently in the tooth configuration brian
 
So Jim, Couple of questions...

1) Do you have a SawStop now?
2) What was the situation that caused the injury?

1) Nope, but I don't have mush use for a tablesaw at the moment
2) I was laping out a curly cherry 1x4 that had a bark inclusion that help a rock. I was using my x-cut sled and while pulling the board thru on the 3rd pass, the blade caught and drug it thru while pulling my hand into the blade:doh:. I was using a 60t set 3/8" up w/ a zero clearance insert. No less than 8 professional woodworkers looked at what I was doing (I was looking for some answers for improvement purposes) and all said it was a freak thing that could have happened to anyone:(.
As with most things like that, it made me a better, less apathetic tool user:D.
 
I was laping out a curly cherry 1x4 that had a bark inclusion that help a rock. I was using my x-cut sled and while pulling the board thru on the 3rd pass, the blade caught and drug it thru while pulling my hand into the blade:doh:. I was using a 60t set 3/8" up w/ a zero clearance insert. No less than 8 professional woodworkers looked at what I was doing (I was looking for some answers for improvement purposes) and all said it was a freak thing that could have happened to anyone:(.
As with most things like that, it made me a better, less apathetic tool user:D.

Wow!

Sure sounds like you were doing everything right. Guess sometimes there's just no getting around the fact that this is, in fact, a dangerous activity.

I try to think about what could go wrong everytime I turn on a saw. Stories like yours gives me one more thing to think about. Thanks for sharing.
 
you need to see a ss and a competing brand side by side.

raising and lowering the blade is better (less effort, smoother)

there are safety switches on all the doors.

the on off paddle is positioned correctly for my leg to turn off the machine.

the mobile base is the best out there.

shipping container is fool proofed. There is an indicator that proves the saw hasn't been tipped over in transit

The fence is excellent.

The castings are really heavy and really precise. i.e. trunion

the instruction manual is well written.


What Joe Said !!!!!

It is just a GREAT machine. I smile every time I use it.
 
What Joe Said !!!!!

It is just a GREAT machine. I smile every time I use it.

thank you.

there is way too much emotion around this whole issue.

The saw does what it is supposed to do and it does it very well.

I will never regret spending the extra money knowing that if I make a mistake or some fluke saw cut propels my hands toward the saw, the saw's brake system will help avert an injury.

I work with my hands and I need all my fingers. If I don't have them, my real world career changes dramatically.

I would rather lose a leg than my fingers.

joe
 
I want to start by saying I know absolutely nothing about the saw stop, but it seems to me that the safest thing about any power saw is the human element using caution.. and the most dangerous thing is the human element not using caution... it would seem to me that if you add in the saw's supposed safety feature that protects the user from his own lack of common sense and caution, you can add a danger. I can't get my mind around how the saw works, so my comments probably have not merit... just my observation based on what little I know. I am scared to death of the table saw, so I keep a close eye on where my fingers are and I keep them as far away from the blade as possible when running the saw. Same with the band saw, but not quite as afraid of it as I am the table saw.
 
Chuck, see the attached picture for my explanation of why the SawStop safety feature is such a great thing.......

paint_hand.jpg

...... ever done something similar?

Now substitute the can of paint for a moving saw blade...... :eek: :doh:

Make any sense?
 
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