Saw Stop in Time Warp

is the saw any good after the blade gets stop with a tail hook [ YES I know that tail hook are for stopping airplanes but I do not know a better name for the saw ]
 
while a new blade will cost a bundle , I think that the motor will go out too unless it got a special switch to cut the power to the motor
 
i have had the brake engage for me.

no it wasn't my finger, but the tip of my miter gauge.

There is no damage to the saw, all you need to do is remove the blade and engaged brake, insert a new brake and blade and start sawing again.

I kept the blade hung up in my shop for a 1 1/2 and finally decided to remove the blade from the brake.

I lost a couple teeth so I took it to a shop to have new carbide tips installed.

There are only about 4 or 5 tips that contact the brake. The rest of the blade is undamaged as is the Zero Clearance Insert.

I haven't used the repaired blade yet, but I will.
 
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Do they check the blade for warpage or runout? Just wondering. In the video it did seem the blade flexed quite a bit.
 
Great Video thanks for posting Darren. I have watched that show but miss it often. Glad to see they did the saw stop on it.

What good marketing for the guys.

Who cares if you loose a blade and cartridge, the price of a hand injury could be way more costly in many more ways than money.

I would still like to see more variety in the test demonstrations. I would really like to see how this saw cuts wet wood like what we get from HD in the construction lumber section or pressure treated when its damp from the processing plants.

I know it has a switch to bypass the brake but what happens if one does not. How likely is the brake to false trigger.
 
I'd think they would want to add a tester, moisture probe, or perhaps an embedded LED to warn of a possible trigger due to moisture so one would remember to turn on/off the by-pass. Perhaps even a warning light to show the by-pass is turned on.

Maybe they do...I'm just rambling and too lazy to research it. :)
 
I'd think they would want to add a tester, moisture probe, or perhaps an embedded LED to warn of a possible trigger due to moisture so one would remember to turn on/off the by-pass. Perhaps even a warning light to show the by-pass is turned on.

Maybe they do...I'm just rambling and too lazy to research it. :)

The way it was explained to me is you can turn on the saw without running the motor, then you touch the blade with the wood and a lite will tell you if the saw would trip. In terms of the bypass It will automaticaly reset after you make the cuts
 
......I would really like to see how this saw cuts wet wood like what we get from HD in the construction lumber section or pressure treated when its damp from the processing plants. ......

That is why the skill saw was invented :D

This is honestly not the kind of saw that you are going to be pushing crap construction grade junk 2x4s through, IMHO if you are buying a $3000 saw, that is most likely not the kind of wood you will be using, I could be wrong :dunno:

Don is correct, there is a control panel that you can test the piece of wood on, if it is too damp, and you want to cut it, then you use the by-pass key and cut it.

Honestly, the dripping wet kind of wood that we are talking about, will most likely twist and warp badly, so pushing it through a tablesaw may not be you best choice :rolleyes: :wave:

If you are just cutting a 2x4 to length, again, that is what the circular saw is for :D
 
while a new blade will cost a bundle , I think that the motor will go out too unless it got a special switch to cut the power to the motor

Yep, they thought of that. The motor shuts off instantly when the brake is triggered. The trunnion and other mechanical parts of the saw are also built extra beefy to withstand the shock of a sudden stop. :thumb:
 
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