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Thread: white oak dining table-COMPLETED

  1. #1
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    white oak dining table-COMPLETED

    Im stumbling along, and I mean stumbling along.
    Ive had to wax the beds of the jointer and planer twice in 2 days.
    I changed the blades on the jointer last night.
    This white oak and hard maple are a bit difficult for me to work with such large heavy pieces.
    I did not match up all the rift saw, quartersawn, and light or dark white oak,( sorry, the camera batteries went dead, I wanted to show before I apply any oil the different shades.)
    I love the contrast and beauty of this, so I wouldnt bother using matching boards all over.
    Its all white oak exterior, ash and maple interior parts.The center stretcher is around 12 inches wide, with a 3 inch x 4 inch laminated piece of hard maple on top, a 3inch by 1.5 inch on bottom with white oak outsides.IM thinking bout glueing the top boards to the top support and using screws for the bottom support so the wood has room to move. The center stretcher will be glued in top in between posts, not in between walls.
    Pics explain it, show it, and its just so tempting to just glue it all together and not worry about wood movement. But Im afraid a 22 inch 28 inch high panel would love to jump around on me and eventually start to crack.
    IF anyone who looks at this thinks I could get away with just glue, please voice an opinion. Otherwise, Im going to use screws with oversized holes to attach everything and then cover with plugs. Glue only the middle board of each piece.
    My muscles, what little I have left, are sore and I have no energy left to start to plane and cut a top until I completely assemble and move this base unit.
    I could not clamp it all so perfect since nothing is being held together and the parts are very heavy., but wanted to give an idea of what the base will look like.
    Its 53 inches long, for an approx 72-74 inch length table top,and it goes 24 inches wide with the mahogany endcaps, for a table width of approx 40-41 inches.
    I had to cut out the support beam slot on the inner walls and decided to rough cut with a jigsaw, then I put in a 2 inch flush bit with a bearing.
    Ofcourse, while cutting, I dont know how, I let the entire thing shift and had a drop off cut from the bit. It wont show, its hidden by the oak on the center stretcher. My bit is so rusted, but it did the job.
    I used the plunge saw and rail to trim up and square off all the panels, the ran a tiny bit off on the table saw to get all parts equal height.
    Im waiting on some screws and a 3/4 plug cutter so I can start attaching all parts with screws, and sort of let each panel "float" on the inner support columns.
    I hope my design isnt too flawed.
    A big part of my enjoyment, is to make my own plans and follow them through.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bed 322 (Medium).jpg   bed 323 (Medium).jpg   bed 325 (Medium).jpg   bed 324 (Medium).jpg   bed 326 (Medium).jpg  

    bed 327 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-24-2010 at 01:19 AM.

  2. #2
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    Sounds like a project, Your lucky my son is not on here he would be giving you the what for using screws instead of dowels. The boy is the most annal guy I have ever had working and he will take screws out and replace with dowel when ever he can.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
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  3. #3
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    Well now, that is one stout looking pair of legs! I doubt that is going to have any problem holding up the table top and at least two disco dancers!
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
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  4. #4
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    Im only using screws to allow for movement.
    do you think Id get away not using them on this?
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-07-2010 at 09:53 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hawksford View Post
    Sounds like a project, Your lucky my son is not on here he would be giving you the what for using screws instead of dowels. The boy is the most annal guy I have ever had working and he will take screws out and replace with dowel when ever he can.

    Tell him that Sam Maloof said that a screw is nothing more then a metal dowel...
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  6. #6
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    allen, once assembled will that base be all one piece. if so that is going to be one heavy base. is it too late in the design to make the center divider detach from the two towers?

    chris

  7. #7
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    not too late at all, and I was thinking of predrilling a 6 inch lag bolt through the top into the center post of the base just for this reason, so it can be dissembled and moved easier.
    The base is heavy, but I can lift one piece of it myself, not easy to handle, but able to move it from table to table, so Im sure 2 able bodies could move the entire base without much trouble.
    Im sure, maybe not? a 3/8th lag bolt would secure that base together.

    the center stretcher is a 3x4 inch piece of hard maple that rests on a 3x3 piece of maple/or ash,with a 3x3 post of maple/ash on each side of it.
    The oak only goes up to the inner wall of the pedestal base, the 3x4 maple center stretcher goes 3 inches further on each end. Drilling 6 inches of hard maple is not going to be an easy task for me, as I will have a hard time getting that sucker onto the drill press table and I dont know if my makitas can bore through it.
    Last edited by allen levine; 06-08-2010 at 02:15 AM.

  8. #8
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    I have a feeling that's going to be a real winner of a piece Allen!
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  9. #9
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    thankyou, Ill take that confidence into the shop tomorrow as I was dicouraged by all the heavy lifting today and my worn out body.
    Im still flipping the idea of stain and poly or applying some type of oil and popping the grains and then add poly or laquer.

  10. #10
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    allen,

    if you decide to drill for the lag, do yourself a favor and go down to your local borg and get a drill bit that has the auger/screw on the end, i forget what they are called, we used one to drill holes in the 2x4's for electrical in my house. you don't have to apply much pressure, just let the drill do the work, set it on 1 for more torque and that makita should easily handle it. the bits usually are at least 8-10" long.

    chris

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